When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Getting ready to install the full exhaust. Have a set of speed engineering headers that have been jet hot coated. Considering throwing some DEI exhaust wrap on the X pipe after I get it mocked up. Not really looking for a performance increase but I figure it would help keep tunnel temps down better than their heat shield kit (which based on my reading tends to heat soak after sitting in traffic, plus the wrap is half what the dei kit costs).
I know stainless doesnt like to be wrapped, but i was thinking that by the time the exhaust gets to the collector itll be a fair bit cooler than when it comes straight out of the exhaust port.
Curious if anyone has tried this, or if im just asking for trouble
Have to ponder on whether the wrap — a pain to do — is as effective and cost competitive with DEI’s tunnel plate options.
My thought was that given they're known for reducing the surface temp of the exhaust by a good bit, that reducing the heat at the source is better than trying to block it. That, and being that the shield is mounted directly to the tunnel it is going to eventually heatsoak and be right at (or close to) the same temp as when it was stock.
Getting ready to install the full exhaust. Have a set of speed engineering headers that have been jet hot coated. Considering throwing some DEI exhaust wrap on the X pipe after I get it mocked up. Not really looking for a performance increase but I figure it would help keep tunnel temps down better than their heat shield kit (which based on my reading tends to heat soak after sitting in traffic, plus the wrap is half what the dei kit costs).
I know stainless doesnt like to be wrapped, but i was thinking that by the time the exhaust gets to the collector itll be a fair bit cooler than when it comes straight out of the exhaust port.
Curious if anyone has tried this, or if im just asking for trouble
Why wouldn’t stainless like the DEI basalt wrap?
As far as the tunnel, I would get the DEI kit and in addition something like Heat Armor on the pipes themselves. I wrapped Heat Armor over my pup cats and it really helped. There’s some affordable stuff on Amazon that has basalt insulation that looks really good.
I’ve had LG headers on the car for 20 years. They are not coated, I don’t use heat resistant thingys on the spark plug wires and no wrap anywhere. And I’ve never had a problem with anything. Good luck with your header journey.
Does your car see rain? If so, do not wrap. They can hold moisture and over time damage the exhaust, even stainless.
I agree I have my headers wrapped but the car never sees rain and I would not recommend wrapping the x pipe. I'm looking at the extra heat shielding for the tunnel when I upgrade my clutch.
Does your car see rain? If so, do not wrap. They can hold moisture and over time damage the exhaust, even stainless.
Hot exhaust pipe wrap holding moisture? The DEI TItanium wrap is made from strands of basalt (a source of titanium), also known as lava rock. Whatever one calls it, it’s not likely to hold moisture.
Hot exhaust pipe wrap holding moisture? The DEI TItanium wrap is made from strands of basalt (a source of titanium), also known as lava rock. Whatever one calls it, it’s not likely to hold moisture.
In a number of areas the humidity in the spring will trap moisture under the wrap and if the car is in storage it never has heat to remove it resulting in rust.
Here in the mid west in un heated garages engines will be soaked with moisture in the spring when the snow melts. Even tools in the tool box can rust. Not something you see in Florida.
Sometimes I wonder about the feedback I see out there on the internet. Without getting into any arguments, heat management is never a bad thing provided it is appropriate for your usecase. I, personally, would always suggest coating headers and other exhaust components if you want to control heat. Whether you think it provides you any value is for you to decide. You've got folks tossing iron blocks into their C5's and swear it doesn't impact handling characteristics, too. Just use some critical thinking and make a personal assessment on what you have and why you think you need something more, then compare the cost/hassle of getting that done. There are so many half-assed cars out (I just bought one) that people will claim is clean and certain things "never caused them any problems" but that's their threshold for what "ok" is.
Issue is heat soak. You need to consider 3 forms of heat transfer. Conduction/convection/radiation
Most of what you see in exhaust will be conduction and convection. The more you can stop/contain the transfer happening the better off you will be. The last component will be heat soak over time. Proper coatings aim to contain the heat inside the pipe. Much like wraps or coverings being discussed.
My approach was to use HeatShield Products cover custom cut to fit the pipe to contain the heat and to add a porous barrier in between the pipe and the aluminum backing. Yes the aluminum backing still gets hot, but it cools MUCH faster than the bare pipe which means you are "containing" hear.
There is no wrong here. Any effort is good. Though some are likely more effective.
It also depends on the goal. Some think they need lower engine bay temps. Others are just tired of searing their right knee next to the shifter.
Coatings appear to help, but in a lesser way. Especially those like Jet Hot which is akin to Cerakote, both being very thin and largely cosmetic being available in many varied colors. The one I see referenced on Yellow Bullet when it comes up is Swain Tech white lightning. A thicker thermal retention barrier. It just isn't pretty looking. Others may exist which I am not aware of.
Wraps. Go for it. By the time the pipe take any damage at all (depending on type of steel and actual content) you're probably selling the car. The lava wrap is allegedly far less susceptible to weather impact and can last longer but experiences I have read indicate it does still come apart, it just lives twice as long.
I am a big fan of the various shield sheets. They retain heat better. The material lasts far longer. And when applied to non hetavsurfaces they insulate against heat absorption. I have gone "over the top" on this and shielded the entire tunnel, both side of the plate, and then the DEI kit along the sides of the tunnel as well. I can totally see wrapping and using metal ties to cover much of the rest of the exhaust.
In my case, in anticipation of turbos I have coated the manifolds, turbine housings and down pipes as well as picked up a pair of metal bodied turbo blankets which are also supposed to last a very extended period compared to the typical glas fabric types. I did find that a good glas brand is Funk out of England as theirs have much more padding and body to them, though they are not the brand I used. I believe I went with PTP "hybrid"
Many good points above to consider; specific goals, cost, climate, and installation difficulty. I’m a big fan of the Heat Armor type sheets, but they can be difficult for mere mortals to install over irregular surfaces (headers) and they get expensive covering a lot of area. Covering the top 2/3’s of straight-ish pipe is doable for this old geezer.
While the DEI wrap may be less desirable in some climates, it’s a good mix of cost and performance here in FL. They do well with radiant heat, and engine compartment temp is a real thing here.
DEI and some others are now making the “Heat Armor” type sheets with basalt fiber instead of fiberglass. So, less itch installing and should survive longer. I plan to use the basalt backed sheets on the smooth part of the collectors, high flow cats, and the resonators. Basically back to the X.
Nice job pulling this off on headers. Looks like a kit… 👍
Thank! I was going to do my C7 cats/midpipe but I'm wanting to do LT's which means a whole new midpipe...C7 stuff you have to buy the headers and midpipe combo. Not like C5 where some headers bolt to other manufacturers midpipe.
I wrapped from the headers to the axle back with the tunnel insulation, leaving the cats open due to the high temp they create. I feel like this is one of those topics that will forever be debated and is surprisingly polarizing. I was looking for comfort and starter longevity. Here is what I can objectively share:
-The interior is much more comfortable and the tunnel is cooler to the touch
-I have had virtually no starter heat soak issues since wrapping the headers, this was prevalent before with an OEM starter
-if you're lowered you will tear the wrap if you high center
-the car doesn't get driven in the rain and it lives in a heated garage - this was factored into my decision to wrap
-when I need to clean the motor I let it get to temp and lay a rag across the headers to keep them from getting wet.
Which headers? Center high only happened once for me and it was on TSP pipes which hang LOW. Lower than the tunnel. Otherwise tuck the pipes nicely up in the tunnel.
Wrapping X-pipe?
