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Yesterday on my way home the car just died and then started back up by the jumpstart while moving. Once I got home and turned the car off, it wouldn't start up again. After about ~5 minutes the gauges did their little dance and everything seemed to be ok. I checked the DIC for errors and there were 2. One for the throttle body postioner and the other was for the Anti-theft device. I'm at work right now I have the exact codes written down at home.
Has anyone had anything like this happen to them also?
If you take it back to your dealer back out as many mods as you can. I had a bad experience with the dealer not wanting to honor the warranty for an engine repair because of mods. :cry
It's hit or miss it may startup fine 10 times in a row then it will die again. I didn't trust it enough to drive it to work today.
I could see the FOB or key going bad maybe causing me problems when I try to start the car, but for it to just die while driving is what scared the hell out of me. Luckily it happened while I was driving through my neighborhood about a block from home.
I checked the battery first thing when I got home. Everything powers fine except items that are controled by the switch being in the on position. (motor, radio, windows)
Well it did again today on the way to work here is the code that was thrown.
P1626
Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received/ B+ Supply To VCRM A/C Circuit Malfunction.
Going to double check under the passenger side where I tied my AMP to the post on the fuseblock to make sure that didn't come loose. But it had the same symptoms the car shutdown and I lost control of everything control by the switch being in the "on" position.
Going to double check under the passenger side where I tied my AMP to the post on the fuseblock to make sure that didn't come loose.
:confused:
on the back of the fuse block in the passenger floor board there is a post that feeds the fuse block, that is where I terminated the lead for my AMP when I installed the new radio and speakers. After doing some further reading I took all the extra keys off my key ring and will try it with just the key and FOB. Hopefully if anything it's just a bad switch. I'm not 100% sure but I think I voided the warranty on the electrical once I installed the after market stereo.
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Re: Car stalled while driving (Scooby Snacks)
Component amps should have the power lead going directly to the battery. You can get a power post from an auto audio shop that replaces the bolt that screws into the battery on the stock battery cable. You then can attach a power ring for your amp directly to the battery. You could also use the positive post right next to the battery under the Fuse box cover (depends on how much current your amp draws), but going directly to the battery is a much better idea. Some of the bigger aftermarket amps can draw a huge amount of current.
Do you have a shop manual? If not I'll look up the diagnostics for your DTC code tonight if I get a chance. I am not sure if the dealer will charge you for this repair because of your electrical mods. You might want to double check all of your wiring.
.
Going to double check under the passenger side where I tied my AMP to the post on the fuseblock to make sure that didn't come loose.
:confused:
on the back of the fuse block in the passenger floor board there is a post that feeds the fuse block, that is where I terminated the lead for my AMP when I installed the new radio and speakers. After doing some further reading I took all the extra keys off my key ring and will try it with just the key and FOB. Hopefully if anything it's just a bad switch. I'm not 100% sure but I think I voided the warranty on the electrical once I installed the after market stereo.
[Modified by Scooby Snacks, 2:20 PM 2/20/2003]
Why can't you just disconnect your amp wire, we won't tell ;)
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Re: Car stalled while driving (Highroller)
Why can't you just disconnect your amp wire, we won't tell ;)
My guess is the pre-amp lines, the amp turn on line, the speakers wires & new speakers, the head unit, and the appropriate wiring will all still remain. Removing all of that & reinstalling the stock stereo would be a lot of work and signs of the install will still remain.
Component amps should have the power lead going directly to the battery. You can get a power post from an auto audio shop that replaces the bolt that screws into the battery on the stock battery cable. [Modified by rbartick, 3:05 PM 2/20/2003]
The feed for the fuse block inside the car comes directly from the battery, and the draw isn't that bad with the inline capacitor. Also, the problem occurs with the radio and AMP off. So I doubt that's the problem I installed the system back in October and this just started this week. My brother is a certified GM mechanic (does all the vette work at the dealershp he works for) and is coming into town this weekend with tools in arm, so I'll have him take a peek before I take it to the local dealer.
I think I know the fix for this and don't laugh because 3 flatbed tows to the dealer withing 120 miles everyone was in awe including the mechanic
Have your brother climb under the gas tanks where there is a ground wire attached (sorry I am not sure but I think it is on the driver's side) and tighten it. I bet it has come loose :yesnod:
I found it while looking at the fuseblock. I left the car running ad as I was reaching back to try to wiggle the wires the car died. After doing this a few times I noticed a little arc coming from fuse 47 - IGN-1. Was able to duplicate the problem everytime by just touching the fuse. :smash: Replaced the fuse and took her out for a 100+ mile joyride with no problems. :cheers:
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Re: Car stalled while driving (Scooby Snacks)
The feed for the fuse block inside the car comes directly from the battery
Glad you fixed the problem.
I don't really want to send this off topic, but an external AMP should be wired directly to the battery with an appropriate fuse at each end of the AMP power wire. You should not be tapping off existing wiring.
I don't really want to send this off topic, but an external AMP should be wired directly to the battery with an appropriate fuse at each end of the AMP power wire. You should not be tapping off existing wiring.
I know it should be and I do have enough coiled up to reloacted it at a later time. Mainly when I run the nitrous line up front, but it is fused at both ends now.
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