Header Wrap - How to





Identify the “finished edge” of the wrap and use this side the revealed edge to reduce fuzzy edges for a cleaner appearance.
I didn’t notice this right away. 😳.
(You might need to enlarge this…)
The green arrows indicate the finished edge. Note the continuous weave. The red circles show the other side with the tiny loops spread apart. I spoke with DEI who told me the finished edge will look better, but is not critical. They also mentioned that if you have some fuzzy edges after completion, you may use a propane torch to clean them up.
Also, some painters tape on the cut ends prevents them from fraying. ….and they fray really fast!
Long plastic zip ties hold things in place in case you need to change the plan, and not waste a metal tie.
Companies like Heat Shield Products sell 8” ties with their header wraps. Well…theoretically 8” ties will fit around the 1 7/8” primary tubes, but they leave very little material to grab for tightening. Just makes things more difficult while you’re using one hand to hold things in place, and the other hand to get the band tight enough to get some pliers working on it.
Good thing I had some 14” ties on hand, although 10” ties would work as well. The extra length allows you to get the tie started and standing by to set in place and tighten. Then trim and bend the sharp edge under.
I used 14” and 24”. I’ve tried DEI, Heatshield Products, and an Amazon product. The Amazon product is heavier gauge, is dramatically less expensive, and they are available in a variety of lengths and piece count! I prefer the 5/16” width.
https://a.co/d/0fEW6U8U
Last edited by vette4fl; Feb 15, 2026 at 10:47 PM.





1. Some of the tube area that must be covered individually is situated very close to other tubes. So tight, in fact, that I needed a thin wood wedge to put just a tiny bit of pressure between them to slip the fabric through.
2. Some ties are going to tighten better than others. Just a roll of the dice based on the exact position.
3. Little miniature pics can be a life saver in tight spaces.
4. Precalculating material length is maddening. For the sake of the project I took a few measurements and laid out some formulas in excel. I had a hard time accepting the results! It just didn’t seem right. well, the result was pretty much right on. This time…
My formula said 7’ was needed for this tube. I ended up using 6 1/2’. 😳
Update! Wish I found this earlier… based on what I’ve tried so far, this looks spot on.
The tools I’m using….so far. I also used some straight cut tin snips(not pictured) which are far more effective than the side cutters.
I can’t say these pliers actually make the ties any tighter, but are a whole lot easier.
Amazon link: https://a.co/d/04pdsHlZ






Note: I wasn’t wearing gloves at first and I could begin feeling tiny cuts on my hands. It is not like fiberglass that breaks off in your skin, though. Still the fibers seem to be sharp and might have been leaving micro cuts. No bleeding, just like a scratch. I started wearing plastic gloves and no more issues.
Ok…I think I’m getting the hang of this… Note: I recommend wrapping from bottom to top of tubes so the exposed edges are pointing down. The idea is to mitigate any moisture from remaining in the wrap.
Honestly, this tube is easy

So, when you get to the collector and the last tube(s) it helps to do some test runs and look at different configurations. I loosely ran the wrap with enough slack to gradually moving it back to where it was tightened on a tube. Clamp it and then use both hands to move the loose coils down near the wrapping point. Rinse and repeat. This is definitely where patience is a priority.
I did the final section in segments using zip ties or the spring clamps to anchor safe resting points so I could look it over, flip header over, etc., to check from all sides before moving forward.
Feeling good with the results! I plan to use the flexible Heat Armor wrap on the collector and cats once welding is completed.
I ended up having about 10’ of material leftover from this first roll. The result seems consistent with some videos on the subject.










Extension harness(s) for front oxygen sensors. Note these are the square plugs. I got under the car to double check whether they were flat or square plugs. For my 2004, I am 99.0437% sure I need the square plugs.
In my research some people said they used 1 extension, others said 2, and yet others still just used the leftover rear extensions. We’ll see !
http://www.casperselectronics.com/ca...scription=true
I bought a variety of sizes of Heat Shrouds for tubing such as the clutch line coupler and A/C lines. And some smaller diameter Sheaths and for various wires.
Note: “Shrouds” wrap around tubing and the edges connect with Velcro. “Sheaths” are a tube that need to be pulled over wires.
Below is the heatshield I will wrap 3/4’s around the collectors after installation. A good place for 24” ties. This is an “import” product off Amazon that I used previously on my pre-cats. They seem to work great, are high quality, and durable. Oh, and less expensive.
https://a.co/d/00hnxI6t
This company also makes wrap using basalt (titanium) instead of fiberglass. I might try the basalt flavor as the installation progresses.
Last edited by vette4fl; Feb 4, 2026 at 04:42 PM.










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