I've been wrestling with my hurst since I installed it 6 months ago. The rattling was annoying beyond belief and though I like the precise shifts, it was kinda tough to hit 6th or reverse.

So, after months of toying with Dynamat, rubber stoppers, foam, diffterent *****, etc... I decided to do the smartest thing yet... listen to you guys. I went to Pep Boys and asked for a strip of stick on wheel weights. I was still skeptical even as I removed the several layers of Dynamat from around the shaft of my Hurst. So, I cleaned up the shifter from my previous attempts, placed vertical rows of 4 weights per strip side by side around the shifter, and finished up by wrapping a layer of Dynamat around the weights.

Next, I decided to play around with the springs inside that control the tension on the shifter. I re read the directions and they only mention that the spings can be used in any combination. I already have the lightest inner with the lightest outter installed and feel it is still a bit too stiff. So, I decided to test the shifter with only the outter spring. Guess what? It felt just right.

So, I put everything back together and headed out to see what it would be like on the road. At WOT about 90% of my prior vibration was GONE. No more irritating buzz. And on the freeway, 6th gear was easy to get into as a result of the single spring. Reverse was no problem either. The shifter has no trouble finding "center" between shifts. Someone here might be able to explain a technical reason to install both springs but if the only reason for both is to create more tension, I'll stick with this current set up.

Hope this helps those of you who are searching for a fix to either of these problems. If anyone can think of a reason why I need to put the inner spring back, I'm all ears.

Matt

 

After speaking with a tech at Hurst I went 2 months with no springs, he also suggested leaving out the stops, he stated that the Vette had stops and if your not drag racing weekly that the stops in the tranny will suffice. Now that everything has broken in I put the softest small spring in, perfect, and still no rattle
:party: :party: :party: :party: :party:

 

Is it too late to take of picture of your install, and then post it here, of how you wrapped the wheel weights on the Hurst?

 

Lets see.............wheel weights, foam, dynamat, all needed to make the Hurst shifter perform almost as good as the original..................I KNEW there was a reason I never purchased one.............. :lol:

 

Sometimes it's better to leave well enough alone. :smash:

 

There are always trade offs when modifying. Yes there are even trade offs for having an engine that makes 500hp (usually more frequent tire purchases).

 

Set the stops much closer than Hurst recommends. Make sure there is still a little movement in the shifter. Almost all of the vibration will be gone! CAUTION: You must have a few thousands of play!

 

My Hurst rattled with the stock ****. Put an MGW on and the rattle went away. Piece of cake.

The stock shifter is a POS, no comparison with the feel of the Hurst. The stock shifter in my Firebird was WAY better than the stock vette shifter, and a firebird costs about half as much as a vette.

 

:iagree: No need to try all that extra garbage. Just throw an MGW **** on the end of the Hurst and you will have ZERO rattles from day 1!!!

 

Actually, I had the MGW in hand when I did the install. Still rattled like crazy. :( Good to hear it works for some, though.

Matt

 

Well you would be the FIRST person I have heard of that has had rattling with an MGW ****. VERY RARE!! Im glad everything worked out in the end for you. :thumbs: