Bought the GM performance brake rotors (yes I'm painting the insides) and am installing them this weekend. After 14 months and 26K miles, Electra's brake fluid is pretty dark. So I might as well flush the fluid since I'm changing out the rotors. Can any of you brake/rotor experts lend some tips to change out the rotors and flush the fluid?

Will post pics when I'm done.

Thanks!


Dan

 

Probably best done on a lift because the caliper bolts can be a bear to get off and having the car on a lift allows you some leverage. You'll probably need a breaker bar. Don't let the calipers hang by the brake lines.

If you are going to do any treatment to the calipers or rotor "hat" (like painting them), now's the time.

Good luck.

 

Dan
Here is some info for you.
1) For 2001 and newer, the bleed sequence is RR, LF, LR, RF. DO NOT use the older, traditional sequence as the brake line plumbing was changed in 2001 to a crossing-style that changes the sequence. The farthest-to-nearest caliper method does not apply here.

2) If you do not have a power bleeder, get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder (the Universal model at http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html) like the one pictured below. It's $50 but well worth it. It is awesome and allows you to do this job alone and very quickly and neatly. You no longer have to have a helper and go through that laborious procedure of pumping the pedal. Don't get the SpeedBleeder fittings since you don't get the ultimate convenience of the Power Bleeder. You still have to pump the brakes and monitor the M/C so it doesn't run dry during the procedure - you don't do either with the Power bleeder. Plus the Power Bleeder costs about the same or less, depending on which you get. Note: Play with the bleeder empty first and do a couple dry runs before you start using it to make sure you know how to fit the cap on the M/C and get a leak-free seal.

3) Don't be concerned about the ABS unit. It can't be bled manually with the rest of the system without a Tech2 tool but I wouldn't worry about it. The valves remain closed during power-off conditions. I've heard of people turning the key on to power the unit to bleed but never heard it confirmed. Just bleed the system normally and you'll be good to go.

4) Only empty the M/C reservoir halfway before connecting the Power Bleeder. If you empty it all the way, you will just allow air to get into the system unnecessarily.

5) Use ATE Super Blue brake fluid - it's a terrific brake fluid that is a great value. You can get it in blue or gold so that each time you bleed the system, you can get a color change and be confident the lines were completely filled with new fluid because you saw the color change. You might be able to find it locally - I did here. I also have bought some from LAPD in a pinch but you should be able to find it cheaper locally or from another vendor.

6) You can do this easily on a lift. Fill the bleeder, empty the reservoir halfway, connect the bleeder and pump it up, check it for leaks and set it securely in the engine bay. Then go through the RR, LF, LR, RF sequence. Attach your drain bottle hose and crack the bleed plug on the top back of the caliper. Watch the fluid drain until it changes to blue and close the bleed plug. Repeat at each wheel position. That's pretty much it. Obviously you want to test the brakes carefully at slow speeds for a couple of minutes to make sure they are working properly.

A freind sent all the above info to me and was invaluble when I changed my fluid.

Glenn

 

Good tips for handling the brake bleeding procedure. I had mine done at the dealer - fairly expensive to do.

 

Great post Glennm27. Covered the whole procedure.