seat problems, lumbar leaking
08-16-2004, 06:58 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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seat problems, lumbar leaking
It seems on my drivers seat, the upper back support will not hold the air or whatever goes into it. It just leaks right down, has anyone experienced this problem or know how to fix it? Also. There are two switched for lumbar that are vertical and also a horizontal switch that looks the same as the lumbar switches, what does this switch do? I thought it did the side supports but it seems to do nothing on both seats.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
08-16-2004, 07:53 PM
#2
Wil Cooksey #256
Originally Posted by robl45
It seems on my drivers seat, the upper back support will not hold the air or whatever goes into it. It just leaks right down, has anyone experienced this problem or know how to fix it? Also. There are two switched for lumbar that are vertical and also a horizontal switch that looks the same as the lumbar switches, what does this switch do? I thought it did the side supports but it seems to do nothing on both seats.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Last edited by 50 4Ever; 08-16-2004 at 08:20 PM.
08-16-2004, 08:00 PM
#3
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Yea.. I had the side bolster bladders replaced..
Common issue... Dealer resolved it, but I believe it gets subbed out to an auto apolstery shop insetad of in house...
Common issue... Dealer resolved it, but I believe it gets subbed out to an auto apolstery shop insetad of in house...
08-16-2004, 08:26 PM
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Melting Slicks
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well the bolsters don't work on either of my seats and the upper lumbar leaks down on the drivers seat. I'm assuming that the upper lumbar just has a leak somewhere, is it not possible to take it apart and fix it? The side bolsters seem they should be easy to do too right?
08-16-2004, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by robl45
well the bolsters don't work on either of my seats and the upper lumbar leaks down on the drivers seat. I'm assuming that the upper lumbar just has a leak somewhere, is it not possible to take it apart and fix it? The side bolsters seem they should be easy to do too right?
If your interested in doing it yourself go to vetteessentials.com and have a look at their seat covering how to's. It'll give you an idea on what's involved with taking them apart. Should be doable. If you don't someone else will if you pay to have it done. My .02 and I am behind any do-it-yourself repairs. They usually turn out better than when you pay someone to do it. You'll take more care than they will. Again my .02 Keep us posted if you do it. It may help out others to do it themselves. 
08-17-2004, 07:13 AM
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Melting Slicks
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I just looked over vette essentials website, it looks pretty easy to take the covers off, all you have to do is unzip a zipper and pop out some plugs. Looks like you could do it with the seat in the car if you are just working in the top. The problem is, from what I saw on Vette Essentials, there are no bladders, only foam, where are these bladders?
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
08-17-2004, 01:19 PM
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My lumbar and bolsters all three quit working about 2 months ago. Anyone know if it may be a fuse and which fuses? I removed the seats and when I reinstalled they weren't working. The seat still operates forward and backward, up and down. Is there something I may have not reconnected? Help. Thanks.
08-17-2004, 08:45 PM
#10
Team Owner
Rob, the tip below is from the Corvette Action Center and may give you a bit more insight on how the system works. It's a pump repair but may help in troubleshooting.
Hiteck, sounds like your lines may not be connected. I'd check those first. The electrics which move the seat up/down/back/forth are working so it's not lack of power. Sounds like a pneumatic line is loose. Can you hear the pump working?
Lumbar Repair Tip
One of the common problems with the inflatable lumbar seats is that the pump may fail. The pump may continue to work, but the air bladders located in the seat do not inflate. There is a rubber membrane within the pump which can puncture. Below are possible solutions:
Instead of purchasing and replacing the whole pump from GM you can order just the membrane from the Jasco Products, in Sun Valley, CA. They are the manufacturer of the pumps. Their phone number is (323) 254-8889 and their web site is http://www.jascoprod.com/. There is also an article on replacing this membrane in the May 1995 issue of Corvette Fever magazine.
The following information is an alternate fix:
Purchase a pair of latex rubber dishwashing gloves from your local 5&10. Make sure they are the heavy duty kind, and not the ones the thickness of a condom. Also make sure they have a good portion of flat texture on the cuff. You'll need enough to cut out two 1" round diaphragms.
Remove the lower seat cushion. There is a wire retainer at the front bottom of the seat. Carefully flip the seat bottom up and out of the way to expose the bladder pump. It is the one with the tubings attached to it.
On one one end of the pump you will notice two small phillips head screws, holding on a retaining plate. Remove both screws and the retaining plate. The bottom one is a little hard, but it can be done with a small jewelers screwdriver. You do not have to remove the pump itself.
Once you remove the retainer, you can wiggle out the diaphragm assembly. It has three tubes attached to it on one end, and the plunger assembly on the other. If your diaphragm is busted, then the plunger will be separated.
The diaphragm assembly, is held together by four small bolts and nuts. Remove all four, and break apart the diagram assembly. You can now take it to your workbench.
By this time you will clearly see how the diaphragm works. Pull the old diaphragm out, and use it as a template for your new one. Once you cut out a new one, you can mount it on the plunger. Since there is a screw that retains the diagram to the plunger, it is a good idea to use a small dab of silicon sealer to the screw hole.
Re-assemble the entire diaphragm assembly and pump. Be careful to get the plunger back on the motor rod.
Test the unit before you put on the retaining plate. You will see the pump motor spinning the plunger. Make sure it is inflating the bladders.
The following was submitted by Don Hall on 11/09/02:
"A recommended substitution to the "rubber glove" is the use of a bicycle inner tube. It is much thicker, therefore more durable, and more efficient as a pump diaphragm. Start with a square piece of tubing. Locate the center of the square by intersecting from the corners. This will locate the screw hole. Place a compus at the center, and draw a 1.25" OD circle. Carefully cut out the circle. This is the only activity required to create a replacement diaphragm. Install by using the reverse steps of removal. I am able to compare the original pump (passenger seat) versus the replacement (driver seat), and the "inner tube" is more efficient (takes less time) inflating the bladder."
Hiteck, sounds like your lines may not be connected. I'd check those first. The electrics which move the seat up/down/back/forth are working so it's not lack of power. Sounds like a pneumatic line is loose. Can you hear the pump working?
Lumbar Repair Tip
One of the common problems with the inflatable lumbar seats is that the pump may fail. The pump may continue to work, but the air bladders located in the seat do not inflate. There is a rubber membrane within the pump which can puncture. Below are possible solutions:
Instead of purchasing and replacing the whole pump from GM you can order just the membrane from the Jasco Products, in Sun Valley, CA. They are the manufacturer of the pumps. Their phone number is (323) 254-8889 and their web site is http://www.jascoprod.com/. There is also an article on replacing this membrane in the May 1995 issue of Corvette Fever magazine.
The following information is an alternate fix:
Purchase a pair of latex rubber dishwashing gloves from your local 5&10. Make sure they are the heavy duty kind, and not the ones the thickness of a condom. Also make sure they have a good portion of flat texture on the cuff. You'll need enough to cut out two 1" round diaphragms.
Remove the lower seat cushion. There is a wire retainer at the front bottom of the seat. Carefully flip the seat bottom up and out of the way to expose the bladder pump. It is the one with the tubings attached to it.
On one one end of the pump you will notice two small phillips head screws, holding on a retaining plate. Remove both screws and the retaining plate. The bottom one is a little hard, but it can be done with a small jewelers screwdriver. You do not have to remove the pump itself.
Once you remove the retainer, you can wiggle out the diaphragm assembly. It has three tubes attached to it on one end, and the plunger assembly on the other. If your diaphragm is busted, then the plunger will be separated.
The diaphragm assembly, is held together by four small bolts and nuts. Remove all four, and break apart the diagram assembly. You can now take it to your workbench.
By this time you will clearly see how the diaphragm works. Pull the old diaphragm out, and use it as a template for your new one. Once you cut out a new one, you can mount it on the plunger. Since there is a screw that retains the diagram to the plunger, it is a good idea to use a small dab of silicon sealer to the screw hole.
Re-assemble the entire diaphragm assembly and pump. Be careful to get the plunger back on the motor rod.
Test the unit before you put on the retaining plate. You will see the pump motor spinning the plunger. Make sure it is inflating the bladders.
The following was submitted by Don Hall on 11/09/02:
"A recommended substitution to the "rubber glove" is the use of a bicycle inner tube. It is much thicker, therefore more durable, and more efficient as a pump diaphragm. Start with a square piece of tubing. Locate the center of the square by intersecting from the corners. This will locate the screw hole. Place a compus at the center, and draw a 1.25" OD circle. Carefully cut out the circle. This is the only activity required to create a replacement diaphragm. Install by using the reverse steps of removal. I am able to compare the original pump (passenger seat) versus the replacement (driver seat), and the "inner tube" is more efficient (takes less time) inflating the bladder."
Last edited by Patches; 08-17-2004 at 08:47 PM.
08-17-2004, 08:49 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
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Thanks for this info, in my case though, it seems that they do inflate, they just happen to leak down after inflating. Or rather, the upper lumbar on the drivers seat does that. Do you still think this could be the fix? I was assuming one of the blatters popped or something and I could use silicone or a patch kit to fix it. Both of my bolsters are broken on each seat. I wonder if both are interelated. I someone how doubt it.
Originally Posted by Patches
Rob, the tip below is from the Corvette Action Center and may give you a bit more insight on how the system works. It's a pump repair but may help in troubleshooting.
Hiteck, sounds like your lines may not be connected. I'd check those first. The electrics which move the seat up/down/back/forth are working so it's not lack of power. Sounds like a pneumatic line is loose. Can you hear the pump working?
Lumbar Repair Tip
One of the common problems with the inflatable lumbar seats is that the pump may fail. The pump may continue to work, but the air bladders located in the seat do not inflate. There is a rubber membrane within the pump which can puncture. Below are possible solutions:
Instead of purchasing and replacing the whole pump from GM you can order just the membrane from the Jasco Products, in Sun Valley, CA. They are the manufacturer of the pumps. Their phone number is (323) 254-8889 and their web site is http://www.jascoprod.com/. There is also an article on replacing this membrane in the May 1995 issue of Corvette Fever magazine.
The following information is an alternate fix:
Purchase a pair of latex rubber dishwashing gloves from your local 5&10. Make sure they are the heavy duty kind, and not the ones the thickness of a condom. Also make sure they have a good portion of flat texture on the cuff. You'll need enough to cut out two 1" round diaphragms.
Remove the lower seat cushion. There is a wire retainer at the front bottom of the seat. Carefully flip the seat bottom up and out of the way to expose the bladder pump. It is the one with the tubings attached to it.
On one one end of the pump you will notice two small phillips head screws, holding on a retaining plate. Remove both screws and the retaining plate. The bottom one is a little hard, but it can be done with a small jewelers screwdriver. You do not have to remove the pump itself.
Once you remove the retainer, you can wiggle out the diaphragm assembly. It has three tubes attached to it on one end, and the plunger assembly on the other. If your diaphragm is busted, then the plunger will be separated.
The diaphragm assembly, is held together by four small bolts and nuts. Remove all four, and break apart the diagram assembly. You can now take it to your workbench.
By this time you will clearly see how the diaphragm works. Pull the old diaphragm out, and use it as a template for your new one. Once you cut out a new one, you can mount it on the plunger. Since there is a screw that retains the diagram to the plunger, it is a good idea to use a small dab of silicon sealer to the screw hole.
Re-assemble the entire diaphragm assembly and pump. Be careful to get the plunger back on the motor rod.
Test the unit before you put on the retaining plate. You will see the pump motor spinning the plunger. Make sure it is inflating the bladders.
The following was submitted by Don Hall on 11/09/02:
"A recommended substitution to the "rubber glove" is the use of a bicycle inner tube. It is much thicker, therefore more durable, and more efficient as a pump diaphragm. Start with a square piece of tubing. Locate the center of the square by intersecting from the corners. This will locate the screw hole. Place a compus at the center, and draw a 1.25" OD circle. Carefully cut out the circle. This is the only activity required to create a replacement diaphragm. Install by using the reverse steps of removal. I am able to compare the original pump (passenger seat) versus the replacement (driver seat), and the "inner tube" is more efficient (takes less time) inflating the bladder."
Hiteck, sounds like your lines may not be connected. I'd check those first. The electrics which move the seat up/down/back/forth are working so it's not lack of power. Sounds like a pneumatic line is loose. Can you hear the pump working?
Lumbar Repair Tip
One of the common problems with the inflatable lumbar seats is that the pump may fail. The pump may continue to work, but the air bladders located in the seat do not inflate. There is a rubber membrane within the pump which can puncture. Below are possible solutions:
Instead of purchasing and replacing the whole pump from GM you can order just the membrane from the Jasco Products, in Sun Valley, CA. They are the manufacturer of the pumps. Their phone number is (323) 254-8889 and their web site is http://www.jascoprod.com/. There is also an article on replacing this membrane in the May 1995 issue of Corvette Fever magazine.
The following information is an alternate fix:
Purchase a pair of latex rubber dishwashing gloves from your local 5&10. Make sure they are the heavy duty kind, and not the ones the thickness of a condom. Also make sure they have a good portion of flat texture on the cuff. You'll need enough to cut out two 1" round diaphragms.
Remove the lower seat cushion. There is a wire retainer at the front bottom of the seat. Carefully flip the seat bottom up and out of the way to expose the bladder pump. It is the one with the tubings attached to it.
On one one end of the pump you will notice two small phillips head screws, holding on a retaining plate. Remove both screws and the retaining plate. The bottom one is a little hard, but it can be done with a small jewelers screwdriver. You do not have to remove the pump itself.
Once you remove the retainer, you can wiggle out the diaphragm assembly. It has three tubes attached to it on one end, and the plunger assembly on the other. If your diaphragm is busted, then the plunger will be separated.
The diaphragm assembly, is held together by four small bolts and nuts. Remove all four, and break apart the diagram assembly. You can now take it to your workbench.
By this time you will clearly see how the diaphragm works. Pull the old diaphragm out, and use it as a template for your new one. Once you cut out a new one, you can mount it on the plunger. Since there is a screw that retains the diagram to the plunger, it is a good idea to use a small dab of silicon sealer to the screw hole.
Re-assemble the entire diaphragm assembly and pump. Be careful to get the plunger back on the motor rod.
Test the unit before you put on the retaining plate. You will see the pump motor spinning the plunger. Make sure it is inflating the bladders.
The following was submitted by Don Hall on 11/09/02:
"A recommended substitution to the "rubber glove" is the use of a bicycle inner tube. It is much thicker, therefore more durable, and more efficient as a pump diaphragm. Start with a square piece of tubing. Locate the center of the square by intersecting from the corners. This will locate the screw hole. Place a compus at the center, and draw a 1.25" OD circle. Carefully cut out the circle. This is the only activity required to create a replacement diaphragm. Install by using the reverse steps of removal. I am able to compare the original pump (passenger seat) versus the replacement (driver seat), and the "inner tube" is more efficient (takes less time) inflating the bladder."
08-17-2004, 08:54 PM
#12
Team Owner
The only way you'll know for sure is to disassemble it unless you can actually hear the leak in one of the bladders. If it's pumping up and leaking down, I would suspect a leaky bladder first which is fixable in some cases. Worst case would be replacing the offending bladder(s). The previous suggestion about splintering frames puncturing side bolsters sounds plausible as well. But you probably won't know until you pull it apart and inspect it.
08-18-2004, 07:14 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
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Yes I see the plastic bladders, that looks like an easy enough fix when I get a chance to look at it. I however cannot find any pictures of the bolster bladders, does anyone have a picture of those or are they just basically below the foam?
Originally Posted by bowtiebandit
If you look at the full seat install the white plastic looking pieces that are held in by the plugs are you bladders.
08-18-2004, 07:22 AM
#14
Team Owner
Rob, the side bolster bladders are part of the lumbar/lateral support bladder system. The removal and installation procedures are the same as the removal and installation procedures for the lumbar bladders. If you like, I can email you the procedure. 
08-18-2004, 07:25 PM
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please do, rob@robworld.com. I will try and figure out some of it this weekend.
Originally Posted by Patches
Rob, the side bolster bladders are part of the lumbar/lateral support bladder system. The removal and installation procedures are the same as the removal and installation procedures for the lumbar bladders. If you like, I can email you the procedure.
08-21-2004, 04:20 PM
#17
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Okay, seat is apart, here is what I found, all the bladders go bad at exactly the same place. All four of them are bad where the plug for the tube seems to the bladder, all of the plugs ripped right out. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this? I'm trying silicone now but I don't know how that will work. Can these bladders be ordered? or can they be gotten from the junk yard? two of mine are ripped completely out, those are the two that do the side bolsters, I'm betting nothing will save those because even if you do silicone them, hitting the bolsters will probably knock them out in a day, great design GM!!! Way to go. The two lumbar ones are still relatively intact, I'm betting that some silicone along the seems should hold those in place and fix them for awhile. Car is apart right now, so if anyone wants to write back with some brilliant idea on how to fix this without new parts, I'd be very greatful and this will be done once and for all.
09-11-2018, 03:30 PM
#18
New bladders are available from a variety of sources. Corvette Central has them listed below.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c5-9...rs-side-485055
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c5-9...rs-side-485055
09-11-2018, 05:19 PM
#19
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Did you notice that this was a 2004 thread? 
There have been a number of threads posted on the bladders for the lumbar support - a search should generate some hits. Some have used blood pressure cuffs to fix the bladders. If anyone still needs info on the cuffs, just PM me and I can send you some Word files.
There have been a number of threads posted on the bladders for the lumbar support - a search should generate some hits. Some have used blood pressure cuffs to fix the bladders. If anyone still needs info on the cuffs, just PM me and I can send you some Word files.
09-26-2018, 12:35 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Lumbar fix
Did you notice that this was a 2004 thread? There have been a number of threads posted on the bladders for the lumbar support - a search should generate some hits. Some have used blood pressure cuffs to fix the bladders. If anyone still needs info on the cuffs, just PM me and I can send you some Word files.
There have been a number of threads posted on the bladders for the lumbar support - a search should generate some hits. Some have used blood pressure cuffs to fix the bladders. If anyone still needs info on the cuffs, just PM me and I can send you some Word files.Dave
