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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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Default New guy, a few Q's

Hi guys! Just picked up a 98 FRC auto. Absoluty loving it, especially coming from a Steatlh R/T background. I'm 23 in the Navy and had to take a loan, but its soooo worth it.
This forum is amazing, I'm reading everything I can and learning a butt-ton of cool new stuff.
I searched all of my questions, got answers for most of them, but still a few not exactly to my satitsfaction. Hope you can help and I don't bother you to much. Look foward to becoming a full time contributer to the forum. Anyway:
1. I brought it in to the dealer for a few noises.
A: There is a constant, RPM-dependent squeaking from the serpentine belt area that they told me was the tensioner pulley. I listened myself and concur, so I wana change it myself. Is this a task I can manage myself with limited tools and garage access? They wanted 500$ with parts and labor.
B: The second noise is a droneing (humming) noise that is speed dependant. It sounds like its from between the seats, underneath the car, but I'm not sure. Chevy tried to tell me its ALL 4 wheel hubs! I dont think so, why would they all go at once? I don't want to risk further damage, but the only syptom has been the noise. Still drives super smooth. Any ideas?
2. My passenger headlight motor runs an additional 8 seconds after the light goes down. Why?
3.My dash display controls wont actually control the approach lights. Is there any typical problems with these?
4. The passenger airbag was removed for reasons the previous owner couldnt tell me. Id like to do something cool like put a small computer or audio equipment in its spot. How do I get the cover off? Is this even feasable?

Thanks in advance for your replies!
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by subvertz
Hi guys! Just picked up a 98 FRC auto.
It's not an FRC.
1. I brought it in to the dealer for a few noises.
A: There is a constant, RPM-dependent squeaking from the serpentine belt area that they told me was the tensioner pulley. I listened myself and concur, so I wana change it myself. Is this a task I can manage myself with limited tools and garage access? They wanted 500$ with parts and labor.
Do it yourself. It is a typical prob.
B: The second noise is a droneing (humming) noise that is speed dependant. It sounds like its from between the seats, underneath the car, but I'm not sure. Chevy tried to tell me its ALL 4 wheel hubs! I dont think so, why would they all go at once? I don't want to risk further damage, but the only syptom has been the noise. Still drives super smooth. Any ideas?
I'd get a second opinion on that one.
2. My passenger headlight motor runs an additional 8 seconds after the light goes down. Why?
Another typical prob with C5's. Do a search on how to fix it.
3.My dash display controls wont actually control the approach lights. Is there any typical problems with these?
I don't believe you can control the approach lights, however, check the archives. I believe someone figured out a way to disable them. [/QUOTE]
4. The passenger airbag was removed for reasons the previous owner couldnt tell me. Id like to do something cool like put a small computer or audio equipment in its spot. How do I get the cover off? Is this even feasable?
I'd look to replace it, just for insurance reasons.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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FRCs werent produced untill 99 were all Z51 6speeds!
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 09:16 PM
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The first year for the FRC was '99. You must have a coupe. BTW, the coupes are the biggest seller overall.
On your squeeking, there was a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) from GM outling the reasons for replacing the idler pulleys. The new part numbers have the newer improved design (thicker metal on the dust shield). They are very easy to replace with hand tools and don't cost an arm and a leg either. Use caution so as not to overtorque! I think they are 37 lbft if I recall. I'm not saying your tensioners can't be the culprit, but GM redesigned the idler pulleys specifically for some squeeking noise complaints from some customers. You might start with them first as they are much less expensive. Don't forget new Goodyear gatorback belts either. They are top quality and run very quietly.
BTW, a TSB is NOT a recall of any kind. If the vehicle were still under warranty, they will do the work free, otherwise do it yourself. Easy
HTH,
Robert
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by subvertz
2. My passenger headlight motor runs an additional 8 seconds after the light goes down. Why?
This site is for f-bodies but applies to the C5 as well...

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/

Only half the gear is used so you can flip the plastic gear around since it stripped. Look towards the bottom of the page. I fixed mine for free this way.
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 10:58 PM
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I guess my research led to a misunderstanding of the FRC, thanks for setting me straight guys.

I guess I'll try the idler pulley first. Seems to be the most likely cause. Definetly gonna get the gatorback belt though.

Thanks for the headlight gear link, the video lays it out very clearly. I'm sure that is my problem now.

Still on the fence about the wheel hub issue. Anyone got ideas?
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 11:03 PM
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Here it is.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuelie driver
FRCs werent produced untill 99 were all Z51 6speeds!

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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by subvertz

Here it is.

Thats a coupe, sorry!
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Double Aught
It's not an FRC. Do it yourself. It is a typical prob.
I'd get a second opinion on that one.
Another typical prob with C5's. Do a search on how to fix it.
I don't believe you can control the approach lights, however, check the archives. I believe someone figured out a way to disable them.
I'd look to replace it, just for insurance reasons.[/QUOTE]

If you know the answers you snobby poster.............why dont you tell him rather than being " mother goose" and telling him to look it up........when he's already stated he's searched and wasn't satisfied?

Instead of sitting there like you know it all..................while not showing anyone you know it all.......or anything else, for that matter.

some of the forum members are quick to jump on other members for not using the search feature ........which the original poster stated he had already done.

You added nothing useful here..............and sat there like you knew it all.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 06:52 AM
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by subvertz
..............Still on the fence about the wheel hub issue. Anyone got ideas?
All four? Sounds like horse hockey to me too. Did this "stealership" put your car in the air, remove all four wheels/tires and check each hub for play and/or noises when rotated? I think not.
Did the previous owner (or you) install any mods yet? Like aftermarket exhaust for example? In car "droning" or resonance from an aftermarket unit can be a problem depending on whose it is, who did the work. Also have to look at clearance between the pipes and the floorboards for example.
I'm also thinking about what else is located in the area you indicated, like torque tube for example. Problem is you don't have any real way to know how the previous owner treated (or mis-treated) your baby. HTH some.
Robert
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 07:24 PM
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I will be the 1st to say....Great looking car and congrats on the purchase!

-Kam
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by subvertz
Hi guys! Just picked up a 98 FRC auto. Absoluty loving it, especially coming from a Steatlh R/T background. I'm 23 in the Navy and had to take a loan, but its soooo worth it.
This forum is amazing, I'm reading everything I can and learning a butt-ton of cool new stuff.
I searched all of my questions, got answers for most of them, but still a few not exactly to my satitsfaction. Hope you can help and I don't bother you to much. Look foward to becoming a full time contributer to the forum. Anyway:
1. I brought it in to the dealer for a few noises.
A: There is a constant, RPM-dependent squeaking from the serpentine belt area that they told me was the tensioner pulley. I listened myself and concur, so I wana change it myself. Is this a task I can manage myself with limited tools and garage access? They wanted 500$ with parts and labor.
B: The second noise is a droneing (humming) noise that is speed dependant. It sounds like its from between the seats, underneath the car, but I'm not sure. Chevy tried to tell me its ALL 4 wheel hubs! I dont think so, why would they all go at once? I don't want to risk further damage, but the only syptom has been the noise. Still drives super smooth. Any ideas?
2. My passenger headlight motor runs an additional 8 seconds after the light goes down. Why?
3.My dash display controls wont actually control the approach lights. Is there any typical problems with these?
4. The passenger airbag was removed for reasons the previous owner couldnt tell me. Id like to do something cool like put a small computer or audio equipment in its spot. How do I get the cover off? Is this even feasable?

Thanks in advance for your replies!
Welcome to the class of '98. You mean your headlight motor doesn't run more than that It's a quirky problem. Don't be surprised if you hear it more often. The daytime running lights are not meant to be disabled, but I think there is a way if you are very determined.

Take that sucker back to the stealer and have them do you right. When the quirks are tended to, have fun. Our 98's are stronger than the spec. Get yourself an intake and exhaust and get an even bigger kick
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 10:21 PM
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Thanks!, I do plan on an intake and exhaust. Trying to decide whats best for un here in CT (concerned about ingesting salt and slush). Also, I had to spend a little to get the car, so money is a little tight right now.
Im still loving driving it though. I can't believe I did without for so long.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by subvertz
Thanks!, I do plan on an intake and exhaust. Trying to decide whats best for un here in CT (concerned about ingesting salt and slush). Also, I had to spend a little to get the car, so money is a little tight right now.
Im still loving driving it though. I can't believe I did without for so long.
Hey, I spent about three years there (New London to Holy Loch and back) so I can relate to the snow/slush situation. It gets cooold there on the Thames!
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Old Oct 3, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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Default Welcome from one Sailor to another!

Great looking car! I know you are proud of it. I am now on my second Vette. Had a '96 Collector Edition Coupe for about 3 years and just sold it in August after buying an '02 Millineum yellow 6 speed convertible in July. I spent 26 years in the Navy and retired as a mean ole Master Chief ten years ago. I would recommend that you contact someone through the forum who lives in your area and is very knowledgeable regarding Vettes. I joined a local Corvette club shortly after getting my first Vette and met guys who were super skilled. Some were actually driving 60's vintage Vettes which they built from boxes of parts they bought. Some of the guys in my club have their own lift in their garage at home. Also when thinking about buying anything for your car be sure to check the forum first because you can get some great deals here on the forum. I found my '02 here and then sold my '96 through the forum also. Being in the Navy should give you access to your base's hobby shops which are usually well equipped and reasonable to use. Enjoy your Vette and enjoy your tour in the Navy!
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Old Oct 3, 2004 | 08:36 AM
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The subbase hobby got shut down. But I hardly have much time to work on it anyway. Its very frustrating having to work so many hours and not being able to play with my toys. Submarines suck. And so does the cooold. But enough of me whining, I got another question.
Of all the intake kits Ive seen, I like the one that splits into two channels behind the fog lights. I dont like the ones that go to the license plate cavity or the radiator cavity. Any thoughts?
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Old Oct 3, 2004 | 08:49 AM
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Congrats on the car and cool pic BTW.

On the headlight - most likely your actuator gear is going out. Dealerships will charge you an arm or two to fix that. You can get a bronze replacement gear for the POS nylon stock one for about $30-$40 and it takes about an hour to replace it yourself. Dealerships will want $hundreds to do this same job because they replace the whole unit. (GM doesn't sell just the gears.)

Congrats again and welcome to CF.

Last edited by CAJUNY2KC5; Oct 3, 2004 at 10:24 AM.
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