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i was wondering exactly what is the weatherstripping for the back of the tail light is open to the wind rain or whatever under the rear fascia
so i left mine out
whats it supposed to do
Those look great - did you use 2" screws or longer? Yours look like they sit further out than others.
I used the 2" screws as recomended in the tutorial. But I did select stainless steel instead. As far as the spacing and angles to acheive a totally flush fit. That is done with the spacers and you may need to build up(add an additional strip) the weatherstriping on the top and bottom to keep the finished light stable. It may tend to "tilt" from top to bottom if you ignore this step. I like stable, stability is good.
This is a copy of a PM message I wrote last week in response asking how it was done. DISCLAIMER: Remember, after experimentation myself, I deviated from the original tutorial. Original credit for this mod should go to him.:
Hi Phil,
Ok, it is 8 spacers total. They come 2 per pack and are creme in color. I think the original author said buy (4) because they are 2 per pkg. After some experimentation, IMO you need to leave (2) of the spacers a little more than 3/4 length. These will be the 2 spacers on the outermost ends(most outside screws), on each side of the car.
Then you save the little "cutoff" length(less than 1/4") to use to build up or add to, the full length spacer on THE NEXT INBOARD SCREW. I found that to have it totally flush to the body it needs this little tweak.
The two inner taillights(closest to the license plate) are easy to fit perfectly flush. They require NO cutting of spacers. Use the full spacer length on all 4 screws.
I found it best to use this weatherstriping...... It is found, like he said, 1 asile over from the screws. Here is the exact packaging:
"Marine & Automotive Weatherstripe Tape" it is 3/8 thick and 1/2" wide x 10' long. Buy 2 packages of this. The package is purple and clear in color.
What you will find is that you need to fit one piece of this all the way around the inner circumferance of the well. Fit it flush with the little lip towards the back of the well. NOT way back. Then as you experiment and "dry fit" your taillight, you will find that you need an extra 5"-6" piece placed right next to the
circumferance piece on the TOP and BOTTOM of the well. This acts to firm up and STABILIZE the light itself even after the screws are tightened. You will see this yourself as you go along. If you don't add the extra weatherstrip pieces on the top and bottom of the well, the light will tend to rock "up and down" after installation.
I used the 2" screws as recomended in the tutorial. But I did select stainless steel instead. As far as the spacing and angles to acheive a totally flush fit. That is done with the spacers and you may need to build up the weatherstriping on the top and bottom to keep the finished light stable. It may tend to "tilt" from top to bottom if you ignore this step. I like stable, stability is good.
D.K.-Where is the tutorial you speak of?? Thanx, Jeff
I used the 2" screws as recomended in the tutorial. But I did select stainless steel instead. As far as the spacing and angles to acheive a totally flush fit. That is done with the spacers and you may need to build up the weatherstriping on the top and bottom to keep the finished light stable. It may tend to "tilt" from top to bottom if you ignore this step. I like stable, stability is good.
DK is the tutorial posted anywhere? maybe I missed it because I am a , but this looks like a nice project for the winter along with the hood painting.
I just did this tonight. Turned out great.
The nylon spacers I used are - 3/8 x .171 x1 from Lowe's in the specialty bolt, washer,fastener section.
Used the same MD specialty brand weatherstrip tape.
I just put an extra strip of weatherstripping along the bottom up to the screw mounts to get my lamps to follow the contour of the rear section better. I also used the smaller 1/4" pieces I cut off. I stacked them on the 1" pieces to make the lamps follow the contour as well. I cut a little off of the smaller spacers because the lamp stuck too far out.
Quick side question, if you want to keep your lights as is, can you just use some weatherstripping to avoid the dirt building up in that area right outside of the light?
Quick side question, if you want to keep your lights as is, can you just use some weatherstripping to avoid the dirt building up in that area right outside of the light?
Yes, that's exactly what I did. I still get a little dust but MUCH better than it was before.
Cool, thanks! Anyone know exactly what sort of weather stripping would work the best and how I might put it on? Maybe the answer is in this post... I will look...
I've got them installed and they are very nice. My girlfriend thinks they're the best mod I've installed on the exterior of the car.
And yes, it's very simple. A crosstip screwdriver and about 20 minutes to do all four lights.
Click my pics below for a closer view of the installed kit.
I stopped by West Coast Corvette on last Friday but they were out. It should be in by next week day said. I personally think it is better to purchase the kid then going out and hunting for parts.
Cool, thanks! Anyone know exactly what sort of weather stripping would work the best and how I might put it on? Maybe the answer is in this post... I will look...
I picked up the following product at Lowe's based on someone else's experience:
M-D Building Products
Tear Drop Profile Ultra Weatherseal Silicone Rubber Door Gasket
1/4" thick x 1/2" wide x 20 ft. long.
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