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I found a link on here about converting the door modules (where the window, lock, etc... switches are) from the bulbs to your choice of colored leds. I just want to know if anyone did it. I saw some low-res pics and i am concerned the LED pattern will be to narrow.
I just did mine last weekend with the help of CN Red .. came out great! We used Super Bright 3mm LEDs with 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistors.
I have a Q tho ... No one specifies 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt resistor when using the 470 ohm set up. Anyone know the difference this makes? Will one light brighter than the other? I want mine a little brighter.
It is fairly easy to do. I used 5mm ultra-bright blue LED's. Ground the tips off a bit for more of a flood look. You could use 3mm LED's and wound not have to file down anything to make it fit, but they are not as bright. Get your LED's virtually anywhere
The driver side has 3 bulbs - The center console has 2 (if you have ride control) and the passenger side uses 2 LED's.
What you have to do is take the bulb out of the socket then examine how the wires twist and bend around to make contact. Delicate but very easy work. Simply un-do the existing bulb then follow the same approach in reverse when adding the LED. Attach a resistor to the + side of the LED to drop the voltage to the LED down to a safe 12v, then simply rewire the LED in the socket where bulb wires used to go. Put it in. If it doesn't light, turn it 180 degrees the other way.
This makes a very nice and subtle upgrade, and there is ZERO heat coming off the LED's, where the bulbs do get pretty hot. Took me less than 2 hours to do all of them.
I just did mine last weekend with the help of CN Red .. came out great! We used Super Bright 3mm LEDs with 1/4 watt, 470 ohm resistors.
I have a Q tho ... No one specifies 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt resistor when using the 470 ohm set up. Anyone know the difference this makes? Will one light brighter than the other? I want mine a little brighter.
It makes no difference in the brightness of the LED, it's just the power rating of the resistor. you only need 1/4 watt resistors, 1/2 watt resistors will be physically bigger.
if you want the LED to be a little brighter then use a 430 Ohm resistor instead of a 470 Ohm resistor.
diyguy, u used 5mm or 3mm? they look really good. How much harder was it to fit the 5mm leds in the sockets? did you have to file down much?
I used 5mm and ground them down both around the circumference and off the top. I used a bench grinder (delicate) but could just as easily do with a file or dremel tool.
The resistance required is dependent on the max input voltage of the LED. When you buy your LED, most sellers will toss in the proper resistor for free. You can not exceed the voltage of the LED or it will burn out. (they don't call um burn out - they arc internally and there is no visable sign it's shot, but it is). So, think 14.2 volt, not 12v as the alternator can put out 14.2v or more. These LED's use small milliamps of power, so they could run 24 x 7 for months before it would have any impact on your car's battery. (FYI) - not that you would make them on all the time...
I suspect the 3mm's would work just fine. Just want to clarify that you can not 'bump up' the voltage to make it brighter using a smaller resistor.
There are many tutorials on LED's on the net. My 5mm's use max input of 4 volt, 20 miliamps, with a mcd brightness of 4000. Using my volt/ohm meter in the 20k range, shows the resistors to be 1/2 watt and they are VERY bright.
figuring a voltage of 14.2V as opposed to 12V would give you a limiting resistor value of 545 Ohms (assuming a typical operating voltage of LED is 3.3V), since there are no 545 Ohm resistors you would have to use a 560 Ohm or a 510 Ohm resistor.
a 470 Ohm resistor is typical for 12V.
It's been a while since I've worked with LEDs (not since college) but I figured you could get a little more out of the LED by getting closer to 3.3v by using a 430 Ohm resistor without damaging it.
Here a shot while experiementing with different colors and using in series not to exceed 14 volts. You can see how bright the blue's are compared to red.
Also, here is a link to see and learn more about LED's. I found this site when I had a Malibu Wakeboard boat. Some went way overboard, but there is some helpfull info here.
I used 5mm and ground them down both around the circumference and off the top. I used a bench grinder (delicate) but could just as easily do with a file or dremel tool.
The resistance required is dependent on the max input voltage of the LED. When you buy your LED, most sellers will toss in the proper resistor for free. You can not exceed the voltage of the LED or it will burn out. (they don't call um burn out - they arc internally and there is no visable sign it's shot, but it is). So, think 14.2 volt, not 12v as the alternator can put out 14.2v or more. These LED's use small milliamps of power, so they could run 24 x 7 for months before it would have any impact on your car's battery. (FYI) - not that you would make them on all the time...
I suspect the 3mm's would work just fine. Just want to clarify that you can not 'bump up' the voltage to make it brighter using a smaller resistor.
There are many tutorials on LED's on the net. My 5mm's use max input of 4 volt, 20 miliamps, with a mcd brightness of 4000. Using my volt/ohm meter in the 20k range, shows the resistors to be 1/2 watt and they are VERY bright.
thanks, i helped someone do this in an Acura-TL and we found 3mm leds that had a 120 degree output but were about $6 each and only came in blue. I have MY coupe so i was thinking either white or yellow but can't find ones that have such a wide output. The 30 degree ones i have no look like they have hot spots.
thanks, i helped someone do this in an Acura-TL and we found 3mm leds that had a 120 degree output but were about $6 each and only came in blue. I have MY coupe so i was thinking either white or yellow but can't find ones that have such a wide output. The 30 degree ones i have no look like they have hot spots.
When you file off the top of the LED (leave it dull), you eliminate all the angles. Becomes more of a flood - no hot spots...
allegro, i don't see why not...it would just be a little tedious. If my window panels go good i will start on the HVAC controls then the radio last. in the acura we did them all and the radio was a PITA
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