[Z06] Do It Yourself Partition
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Camp Pendleton CA
I personally enjoy the advantage of all that road noise. Lets me know what is going on back there. Plus I use the position of the rear lights to judge distance when backing up. Just a couple less instruments for me to try to read on the dash. Fed right to my brain. 
Last edited by Marine; Dec 15, 2004 at 11:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by Marine
I personally enjoy the advantage of all that road noise. Lets me know what is going on back there. Plus I use the position of the rear lights to judge distance when backing up. Just a couple less instruments for me to try to read on the dash. Fed right to my brain.
For many people the full enjoyment of a vette includes sound effects and the expenditure of a $1000 or more to enhance the sound.When I had the 1967 model and a poor radio I would not have wanted the sound decreased one bit. But older now, with an expensive stereo, and a desire to use the vette traveling the country I have different priorities. The partition clearly isn't for everyone nor do I wish to suggest that it is a wise purchase. Plus my car may not be as well insulated as others because when I start out in the morning I invariably look back to see if my hatch is open. It's bothersome.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by yooperod
I've found that it also prevents the wifes purse and camera bag
from ending up in the rear compartments.
I'll have to do something else to keep them from going left and right
rod
from ending up in the rear compartments.
I'll have to do something else to keep them from going left and right
rod
For those interested in partitions and concerned about adding pounds to the Z06 the sound board is the only way to go. The fiber board was heavy.
Last edited by Charles7Mitchell; Dec 16, 2004 at 10:47 AM. Reason: wrong word used
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by Charles7Mitchell
I reviewed the comments of those who had purchased partitions, and those who had made their own. I decided to try making my own and learned a few things others might find helpful.
First of all a salesperson at the Home Depot suggested using sound board, not fiber board. I stood before sound board 1/2 inch thick and fiber board 3/4 inch thich and he said sound board would better muffle sounds from the exhaust. I noted that fiber board was much heavier than sound board and a 4' x 8' piece of it costs twice as much.
Because it was much lighter I decided to use two pieces of sound board for the partition bringing it to one inch thick, and still much lighter. The 4' x 8' piece allowed me to make 4 rectangles so I set two of them aside in case I messed up the first partition. Home Depot cut the 4 pieces for me to fit in the car.
The hard part for me was cutting the template so that I could then cut the pattern out in the sound board. I found a cardboard box whose longest segment was only 4 feet wide. I needed 4' 7" for the top of the partition, but I easily cut another section from the cardboard box and used staples to extend the length. My template started as a rectangle 4' 8" wide and one foot high. The top of my template only needed to be 3' 9" but I dealt with that later. I would add that I always made the first cut on the card board a little longer than I needed, but if you cut it too short you can always staple a new section back to it.
Using the cardboard I measured it across the bottom of the trunk and cut the cardboard until it matched closely, about 3' 9" in length. When trimming this bottom section down you must make your 3' 9" section measuring from the center of the cardboard and not from one side to the other. Using a pencil I sketched an out line of how the trunk space curves up to the ceiling of the car on the sides and trimmed with scissors. To make the template more manageable, I then started trimming the top of my cardboard. I set my cardboard template across the bottom of the car, tried to fit it in place, and trimmed more where it did not fit. The top of your template will be about 4' 9".
I had cut into the sides of my template a bit much, but added more cardboard later to get the template to fit more snugly. The important thing is to get a good fit across the bottom and across the top. You can always add a little to the sides before you outline the template on the sound board.
Once I had the two soundboard pieces cut out I went to a fabric store. I decided not to use carpet for two reasons. I wanted to fold the fabric around my sound board and carpet did not fold well at the edges of the board. I also used staples to attach the fabric to the sound board and carpet was too hard and thick, and would not have stapled well. I chose a fabric that was 1/4 inch thich, looked like carpet, but was much softer. It was flat and smooth on one side and fuzzy on the other. Not much fabric was needed.
I used liquid nails to bond the two pieces of soundboard. When finished bonding (4 - 6 hours) I tried to fit the partition in my car. I decided that I did not want too snug of a fit, but to leave a little room for fabric. I wanted the fabric to make the snug fit. Another advantage of sound board is it cuts like butter, and if a section is a bit too big you can scrape it down quickly and easily for a good fit.
I laid out the fabric, fuzzy side down on the floor in front of me. I then held the partition at its sides in an upside down position. I placed it on the fabric so that the bottom of the partition was about 5 inches away from the top of the rectangular fabric. In this way when I grasped the far ends of the fabric and folded it towards me it covered the bottom of the partition and came down and covered about four more inches of the partition. For each side of the fabric I reduced the length with scissors so that it stretched about three inches wider than my partition. I then grabbed the two bottom ends of the fabric, folded it over the partition, and cut the fabric so that it overlapped the other side by over an inch. Using 3/8 inch staples I stapled the top fold of the fabric to the board. To better secure the staples I hit each with a hammer. I then folded each side of the fabric over the board much like wrapping a present. The 3/8 inch staples worked fine securing one piece of fabric to the board but using them to staple double layers was no good. So on sections of the side folds that did not overlap fabric I used a few staples to hold the side folds in place. You will note when you make the side folds that you can trim the fabric a bit and I suggest doing some trimming. I then grabbed the ends of the fabric closest to me, and folded them over the partition tightly to get a good fit, again like wrapping a present. It should cover not only parts of the board not yet covered, but overlap fabric folded down over the board, and in from the sides.
The fabric fit the board snuggly everywhere but the sides. With my skills this was unavoidable. I then used heavy duty thread and a needle to sew this last fold left to right across the board. With a thick fabric and a desire for tightness the sewing was a pain, both literally and figuratively. I started the point of the needle in the fabric closest to the board by trying to pinch a bit of it and run the needle through sideways. Then I ran the needle upwards through the overlapping fabric above it and tightened the thread, before continuing either left or right across the board. After I sewed the fold completely sideways I then went to work sewing the side folds in place. Do a good job tightly sewing and the overlapping fabric pieces blend together nicely. After sewing I then stapled in areas to insure tightness, following each stapling with the hammer.
I then placed the partition in the car with the folded side facing the rear of the car. The partition makes a big difference. No one would look at my partition and wonder where I purchased it. However it looks good. With a $10 sound board, fabric, needles and thread I got out for under $20. It may not look quite as good as a commercial product, but two pieces of sound board are sturdy, lighter than fiber board, and probably do a better job muffling sounds.
I live in the Denver area if someone wants to see it or use my template. And I am available to answer questions. Good hunting.
First of all a salesperson at the Home Depot suggested using sound board, not fiber board. I stood before sound board 1/2 inch thick and fiber board 3/4 inch thich and he said sound board would better muffle sounds from the exhaust. I noted that fiber board was much heavier than sound board and a 4' x 8' piece of it costs twice as much.
Because it was much lighter I decided to use two pieces of sound board for the partition bringing it to one inch thick, and still much lighter. The 4' x 8' piece allowed me to make 4 rectangles so I set two of them aside in case I messed up the first partition. Home Depot cut the 4 pieces for me to fit in the car.
The hard part for me was cutting the template so that I could then cut the pattern out in the sound board. I found a cardboard box whose longest segment was only 4 feet wide. I needed 4' 7" for the top of the partition, but I easily cut another section from the cardboard box and used staples to extend the length. My template started as a rectangle 4' 8" wide and one foot high. The top of my template only needed to be 3' 9" but I dealt with that later. I would add that I always made the first cut on the card board a little longer than I needed, but if you cut it too short you can always staple a new section back to it.
Using the cardboard I measured it across the bottom of the trunk and cut the cardboard until it matched closely, about 3' 9" in length. When trimming this bottom section down you must make your 3' 9" section measuring from the center of the cardboard and not from one side to the other. Using a pencil I sketched an out line of how the trunk space curves up to the ceiling of the car on the sides and trimmed with scissors. To make the template more manageable, I then started trimming the top of my cardboard. I set my cardboard template across the bottom of the car, tried to fit it in place, and trimmed more where it did not fit. The top of your template will be about 4' 9".
I had cut into the sides of my template a bit much, but added more cardboard later to get the template to fit more snugly. The important thing is to get a good fit across the bottom and across the top. You can always add a little to the sides before you outline the template on the sound board.
Once I had the two soundboard pieces cut out I went to a fabric store. I decided not to use carpet for two reasons. I wanted to fold the fabric around my sound board and carpet did not fold well at the edges of the board. I also used staples to attach the fabric to the sound board and carpet was too hard and thick, and would not have stapled well. I chose a fabric that was 1/4 inch thich, looked like carpet, but was much softer. It was flat and smooth on one side and fuzzy on the other. Not much fabric was needed.
I used liquid nails to bond the two pieces of soundboard. When finished bonding (4 - 6 hours) I tried to fit the partition in my car. I decided that I did not want too snug of a fit, but to leave a little room for fabric. I wanted the fabric to make the snug fit. Another advantage of sound board is it cuts like butter, and if a section is a bit too big you can scrape it down quickly and easily for a good fit.
I laid out the fabric, fuzzy side down on the floor in front of me. I then held the partition at its sides in an upside down position. I placed it on the fabric so that the bottom of the partition was about 5 inches away from the top of the rectangular fabric. In this way when I grasped the far ends of the fabric and folded it towards me it covered the bottom of the partition and came down and covered about four more inches of the partition. For each side of the fabric I reduced the length with scissors so that it stretched about three inches wider than my partition. I then grabbed the two bottom ends of the fabric, folded it over the partition, and cut the fabric so that it overlapped the other side by over an inch. Using 3/8 inch staples I stapled the top fold of the fabric to the board. To better secure the staples I hit each with a hammer. I then folded each side of the fabric over the board much like wrapping a present. The 3/8 inch staples worked fine securing one piece of fabric to the board but using them to staple double layers was no good. So on sections of the side folds that did not overlap fabric I used a few staples to hold the side folds in place. You will note when you make the side folds that you can trim the fabric a bit and I suggest doing some trimming. I then grabbed the ends of the fabric closest to me, and folded them over the partition tightly to get a good fit, again like wrapping a present. It should cover not only parts of the board not yet covered, but overlap fabric folded down over the board, and in from the sides.
The fabric fit the board snuggly everywhere but the sides. With my skills this was unavoidable. I then used heavy duty thread and a needle to sew this last fold left to right across the board. With a thick fabric and a desire for tightness the sewing was a pain, both literally and figuratively. I started the point of the needle in the fabric closest to the board by trying to pinch a bit of it and run the needle through sideways. Then I ran the needle upwards through the overlapping fabric above it and tightened the thread, before continuing either left or right across the board. After I sewed the fold completely sideways I then went to work sewing the side folds in place. Do a good job tightly sewing and the overlapping fabric pieces blend together nicely. After sewing I then stapled in areas to insure tightness, following each stapling with the hammer.
I then placed the partition in the car with the folded side facing the rear of the car. The partition makes a big difference. No one would look at my partition and wonder where I purchased it. However it looks good. With a $10 sound board, fabric, needles and thread I got out for under $20. It may not look quite as good as a commercial product, but two pieces of sound board are sturdy, lighter than fiber board, and probably do a better job muffling sounds.
I live in the Denver area if someone wants to see it or use my template. And I am available to answer questions. Good hunting.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by roSSco
I spent about 4 hours making mine and am very happy with how it turned out! I covered it with some thick felt-like material from Wal-Mart for $3.81 Here's a few pics...
Hadn't cleaned up yet.
Here's a few pics...Hadn't cleaned up yet.
In your photos your upper ends are a little larger than I made mine and IMO those upper fits are the key to a tight fit. I should have made mine a little larger for a tighter fit as yours do. Mine seem to hold well when I drive, but the tighter the fit the less worry.
You didn't mention whether you used sound board, fiberboard or something different. Soundboard is used in speakers I am told. It will insulate better and not add so much weight to the car.
Congrats on a great looking partition. All totaled, about 4 hours seems about right.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by roSSco
I used an old piece of 3/4" plywood that was in the garage 
I also put velcro on the sides to prevent it from coming loose...
I also put velcro on the sides to prevent it from coming loose...
The key to the whole thing may be making the upper left and upper right parts of the partition so that the fit is extremely snug. Perhaps then Velcro can be avoided entirely.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by Charles7Mitchell
I reviewed the comments of those who had purchased partitions, and those who had made their own. I decided to try making my own and learned a few things others might find helpful.
First of all a salesperson at the Home Depot suggested using sound board, not fiber board. I stood before sound board 1/2 inch thick and fiber board 3/4 inch thich and he said sound board would better muffle sounds from the exhaust. I noted that fiber board was much heavier than sound board and a 4' x 8' piece of it costs twice as much.
Because it was much lighter I decided to use two pieces of sound board for the partition bringing it to one inch thick, and still much lighter. The 4' x 8' piece allowed me to make 4 rectangles so I set two of them aside in case I messed up the first partition. Home Depot cut the 4 pieces for me to fit in the car.
The hard part for me was cutting the template so that I could then cut the pattern out in the sound board. I found a cardboard box whose longest segment was only 4 feet wide. I needed 4' 7" for the top of the partition, but I easily cut another section from the cardboard box and used staples to extend the length. My template started as a rectangle 4' 8" wide and one foot high. The top of my template only needed to be 3' 9" but I dealt with that later. I would add that I always made the first cut on the card board a little longer than I needed, but if you cut it too short you can always staple a new section back to it.
Using the cardboard I measured it across the bottom of the trunk and cut the cardboard until it matched closely, about 3' 9" in length. When trimming this bottom section down you must make your 3' 9" section measuring from the center of the cardboard and not from one side to the other. Using a pencil I sketched an out line of how the trunk space curves up to the ceiling of the car on the sides and trimmed with scissors. To make the template more manageable, I then started trimming the top of my cardboard. I set my cardboard template across the bottom of the car, tried to fit it in place, and trimmed more where it did not fit. The top of your template will be about 4' 9".
I had cut into the sides of my template a bit much, but added more cardboard later to get the template to fit more snugly. The important thing is to get a good fit across the bottom and across the top. You can always add a little to the sides before you outline the template on the sound board.
Once I had the two soundboard pieces cut out I went to a fabric store. I decided not to use carpet for two reasons. I wanted to fold the fabric around my sound board and carpet did not fold well at the edges of the board. I also used staples to attach the fabric to the sound board and carpet was too hard and thick, and would not have stapled well. I chose a fabric that was 1/4 inch thich, looked like carpet, but was much softer. It was flat and smooth on one side and fuzzy on the other. Not much fabric was needed.
I used liquid nails to bond the two pieces of soundboard. When finished bonding (4 - 6 hours) I tried to fit the partition in my car. I decided that I did not want too snug of a fit, but to leave a little room for fabric. I wanted the fabric to make the snug fit. Another advantage of sound board is it cuts like butter, and if a section is a bit too big you can scrape it down quickly and easily for a good fit.
I laid out the fabric, fuzzy side down on the floor in front of me. I then held the partition at its sides in an upside down position. I placed it on the fabric so that the bottom of the partition was about 5 inches away from the top of the rectangular fabric. In this way when I grasped the far ends of the fabric and folded it towards me it covered the bottom of the partition and came down and covered about four more inches of the partition. For each side of the fabric I reduced the length with scissors so that it stretched about three inches wider than my partition. I then grabbed the two bottom ends of the fabric, folded it over the partition, and cut the fabric so that it overlapped the other side by over an inch. Using 3/8 inch staples I stapled the top fold of the fabric to the board. To better secure the staples I hit each with a hammer. I then folded each side of the fabric over the board much like wrapping a present. The 3/8 inch staples worked fine securing one piece of fabric to the board but using them to staple double layers was no good. So on sections of the side folds that did not overlap fabric I used a few staples to hold the side folds in place. You will note when you make the side folds that you can trim the fabric a bit and I suggest doing some trimming. I then grabbed the ends of the fabric closest to me, and folded them over the partition tightly to get a good fit, again like wrapping a present. It should cover not only parts of the board not yet covered, but overlap fabric folded down over the board, and in from the sides.
The fabric fit the board snuggly everywhere but the sides. With my skills this was unavoidable. I then used heavy duty thread and a needle to sew this last fold left to right across the board. With a thick fabric and a desire for tightness the sewing was a pain, both literally and figuratively. I started the point of the needle in the fabric closest to the board by trying to pinch a bit of it and run the needle through sideways. Then I ran the needle upwards through the overlapping fabric above it and tightened the thread, before continuing either left or right across the board. After I sewed the fold completely sideways I then went to work sewing the side folds in place. Do a good job tightly sewing and the overlapping fabric pieces blend together nicely. After sewing I then stapled in areas to insure tightness, following each stapling with the hammer.
I then placed the partition in the car with the folded side facing the rear of the car. The partition makes a big difference. No one would look at my partition and wonder where I purchased it. However it looks good. With a $10 sound board, fabric, needles and thread I got out for under $20. It may not look quite as good as a commercial product, but two pieces of sound board are sturdy, lighter than fiber board, and probably do a better job muffling sounds.
I live in the Denver area if someone wants to see it or use my template. And I am available to answer questions. Good hunting.
First of all a salesperson at the Home Depot suggested using sound board, not fiber board. I stood before sound board 1/2 inch thick and fiber board 3/4 inch thich and he said sound board would better muffle sounds from the exhaust. I noted that fiber board was much heavier than sound board and a 4' x 8' piece of it costs twice as much.
Because it was much lighter I decided to use two pieces of sound board for the partition bringing it to one inch thick, and still much lighter. The 4' x 8' piece allowed me to make 4 rectangles so I set two of them aside in case I messed up the first partition. Home Depot cut the 4 pieces for me to fit in the car.
The hard part for me was cutting the template so that I could then cut the pattern out in the sound board. I found a cardboard box whose longest segment was only 4 feet wide. I needed 4' 7" for the top of the partition, but I easily cut another section from the cardboard box and used staples to extend the length. My template started as a rectangle 4' 8" wide and one foot high. The top of my template only needed to be 3' 9" but I dealt with that later. I would add that I always made the first cut on the card board a little longer than I needed, but if you cut it too short you can always staple a new section back to it.
Using the cardboard I measured it across the bottom of the trunk and cut the cardboard until it matched closely, about 3' 9" in length. When trimming this bottom section down you must make your 3' 9" section measuring from the center of the cardboard and not from one side to the other. Using a pencil I sketched an out line of how the trunk space curves up to the ceiling of the car on the sides and trimmed with scissors. To make the template more manageable, I then started trimming the top of my cardboard. I set my cardboard template across the bottom of the car, tried to fit it in place, and trimmed more where it did not fit. The top of your template will be about 4' 9".
I had cut into the sides of my template a bit much, but added more cardboard later to get the template to fit more snugly. The important thing is to get a good fit across the bottom and across the top. You can always add a little to the sides before you outline the template on the sound board.
Once I had the two soundboard pieces cut out I went to a fabric store. I decided not to use carpet for two reasons. I wanted to fold the fabric around my sound board and carpet did not fold well at the edges of the board. I also used staples to attach the fabric to the sound board and carpet was too hard and thick, and would not have stapled well. I chose a fabric that was 1/4 inch thich, looked like carpet, but was much softer. It was flat and smooth on one side and fuzzy on the other. Not much fabric was needed.
I used liquid nails to bond the two pieces of soundboard. When finished bonding (4 - 6 hours) I tried to fit the partition in my car. I decided that I did not want too snug of a fit, but to leave a little room for fabric. I wanted the fabric to make the snug fit. Another advantage of sound board is it cuts like butter, and if a section is a bit too big you can scrape it down quickly and easily for a good fit.
I laid out the fabric, fuzzy side down on the floor in front of me. I then held the partition at its sides in an upside down position. I placed it on the fabric so that the bottom of the partition was about 5 inches away from the top of the rectangular fabric. In this way when I grasped the far ends of the fabric and folded it towards me it covered the bottom of the partition and came down and covered about four more inches of the partition. For each side of the fabric I reduced the length with scissors so that it stretched about three inches wider than my partition. I then grabbed the two bottom ends of the fabric, folded it over the partition, and cut the fabric so that it overlapped the other side by over an inch. Using 3/8 inch staples I stapled the top fold of the fabric to the board. To better secure the staples I hit each with a hammer. I then folded each side of the fabric over the board much like wrapping a present. The 3/8 inch staples worked fine securing one piece of fabric to the board but using them to staple double layers was no good. So on sections of the side folds that did not overlap fabric I used a few staples to hold the side folds in place. You will note when you make the side folds that you can trim the fabric a bit and I suggest doing some trimming. I then grabbed the ends of the fabric closest to me, and folded them over the partition tightly to get a good fit, again like wrapping a present. It should cover not only parts of the board not yet covered, but overlap fabric folded down over the board, and in from the sides.
The fabric fit the board snuggly everywhere but the sides. With my skills this was unavoidable. I then used heavy duty thread and a needle to sew this last fold left to right across the board. With a thick fabric and a desire for tightness the sewing was a pain, both literally and figuratively. I started the point of the needle in the fabric closest to the board by trying to pinch a bit of it and run the needle through sideways. Then I ran the needle upwards through the overlapping fabric above it and tightened the thread, before continuing either left or right across the board. After I sewed the fold completely sideways I then went to work sewing the side folds in place. Do a good job tightly sewing and the overlapping fabric pieces blend together nicely. After sewing I then stapled in areas to insure tightness, following each stapling with the hammer.
I then placed the partition in the car with the folded side facing the rear of the car. The partition makes a big difference. No one would look at my partition and wonder where I purchased it. However it looks good. With a $10 sound board, fabric, needles and thread I got out for under $20. It may not look quite as good as a commercial product, but two pieces of sound board are sturdy, lighter than fiber board, and probably do a better job muffling sounds.
I live in the Denver area if someone wants to see it or use my template. And I am available to answer questions. Good hunting.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: www.corvettepartitions.com Il
Originally Posted by LuS1fer
I think there's actually a template you can download but I'm with SlowZ06 on this one. I've tried in the past to make stuff and to be honest, the time you spend saving money is time you can spend earning more money and by the time you factor in cost of materials, finding the right materials and gas costs running back and forth getting stuff you forgot or find you need, I'd much rather spend money and buy one.
As a matter of fact, mine just arrived from www.corvettepartition.com and I can vouch for the fact that it's a perfect fit and took all of about 2 minutes to fit. I can also say that I got exceptional service from Brian Matthews who even reduced the price of the partition significantly to offset the postage cost and import duties to the UK. Top bloke!
Edited to say mine has velcro attachments top and bottom too - so there. LOL.
As a matter of fact, mine just arrived from www.corvettepartition.com and I can vouch for the fact that it's a perfect fit and took all of about 2 minutes to fit. I can also say that I got exceptional service from Brian Matthews who even reduced the price of the partition significantly to offset the postage cost and import duties to the UK. Top bloke!
Edited to say mine has velcro attachments top and bottom too - so there. LOL.
Shoot me some pics of your car when you get a chance, I'd love to put them on our website!! Thanks for the compliments as well. Our partitions are fully CAD designed for EXACT fit (no sloppy jigsaw lines) and FULLY CNC machined, again for exact fit. Our partitions are then professionally upholstered for a crisp, clean factory look (no messy seams). OUr partitions do not leave without our original velcro fastening system as I had a bad experience with the "pressure fit" verion. I had a 10 lb. box in the rear and had to hit the skids due to someone pulling out in front of me--that partition came loose when the box hit it and nearly took me out, so EVERY partition we sell has the system for safety. We take pride in our products and service, where the customer comes first. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to email me at sale@corvettepartitions.com and I'd be happy to help you. Our website is www.corvettepartitions.com , so stop by and take a peek!!
Cheers to all the DIYers, you can save some money, but if you don't want the headaches, come look us up!!
Brian
Last edited by bmathews; Dec 26, 2004 at 05:11 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 0
From: somewhere on a roadcourse
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by SlowZ06
I bought mine brand new for like $140 shipped...it looks great and it quiets the cabin down a lot!
I would rather just spend the money then go through all that just to make one.
I would rather just spend the money then go through all that just to make one.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by Charles7Mitchell
I attached velcro to my two partitions today and installed one in the vette. We'll see how it goes.
I made two partitions for $40 total and enjoyed the work. A good sewing job holds the fabric in place, but with thick, furry, carpet-like fabric staples can be used and buried in the fur if desired.
To each his own here. I used two 1/2 inch pieces of sound board and even one alone muffles sound better than fiberboard. I saved about $100 and enjoyed the work. I probably spent six hours total as I knew what I was doing on the second partition. But I am retired and enjoyed the project. What counts is that it is quiet inside and my stereo sounds much, much better.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: www.corvettepartitions.com Il
Originally Posted by Charles7Mitchell
The velcro is holding the partition in place. The seams are on the edges of the partition and do not show. Nor does the velcro when in place. I had hoped not to use the staples on the velcro, but came up with no alternative.
I made two partitions for $40 total and enjoyed the work. A good sewing job holds the fabric in place, but with thick, furry, carpet-like fabric staples can be used and buried in the fur if desired.
To each his own here. I used two 1/2 inch pieces of sound board and even one alone muffles sound better than fiberboard. I saved about $100 and enjoyed the work. I probably spent six hours total as I knew what I was doing on the second partition. But I am retired and enjoyed the project. What counts is that it is quiet inside and my stereo sounds much, much better.
I made two partitions for $40 total and enjoyed the work. A good sewing job holds the fabric in place, but with thick, furry, carpet-like fabric staples can be used and buried in the fur if desired.
To each his own here. I used two 1/2 inch pieces of sound board and even one alone muffles sound better than fiberboard. I saved about $100 and enjoyed the work. I probably spent six hours total as I knew what I was doing on the second partition. But I am retired and enjoyed the project. What counts is that it is quiet inside and my stereo sounds much, much better.
You are VERY wise to use the staples to attach the velcro in place. There really is no other method that will completely attach the velcro other than staples or nials of sort. I would reccomend that you might double over the edge of the velcro prior to stapling it so it gives it a bit more material to hold on to. It's a real b**ch when one comes flying out when some ding-dong pulls out in front of you and you have to lock 'em up. It sounds like you had a great time making your partition and I commend you for that!! It took me quite awhile to get my first partition made too, but I had a blast doing it!!!
Cheers to you Charles!!!
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From: Centennial CO
Originally Posted by bmathews
Charles,
You are VERY wise to use the staples to attach the velcro in place. There really is no other method that will completely attach the velcro other than staples or nials of sort. I would reccomend that you might double over the edge of the velcro prior to stapling it so it gives it a bit more material to hold on to. It's a real b**ch when one comes flying out when some ding-dong pulls out in front of you and you have to lock 'em up. It sounds like you had a great time making your partition and I commend you for that!! It took me quite awhile to get my first partition made too, but I had a blast doing it!!!
Cheers to you Charles!!!
You are VERY wise to use the staples to attach the velcro in place. There really is no other method that will completely attach the velcro other than staples or nials of sort. I would reccomend that you might double over the edge of the velcro prior to stapling it so it gives it a bit more material to hold on to. It's a real b**ch when one comes flying out when some ding-dong pulls out in front of you and you have to lock 'em up. It sounds like you had a great time making your partition and I commend you for that!! It took me quite awhile to get my first partition made too, but I had a blast doing it!!!
Cheers to you Charles!!!
