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From: All that glitters is Gold - Hockey Is CANADA'S game
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
To my understanding Traction control is based on wheel spin so it doesn't matter how much HP you have.
Here is what the onwers manual says:
"The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When this happens the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power(by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin"
To my understanding Traction control is based on wheel spin so it doesn't matter how much HP you have.
Here is what the onwers manual says:
"The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When this happens the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power(by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin"
Hope this helps
People with high-hp have reported this.
With enough power, you can actually "overpower the TC".
Just going by recollection here, but as I understand it...
The main power loss felt with TC is the timing retardation. With big hp and custom tuning (mainly advanced timing), what you are essentially doing is still maintaining enough timing and enough hp, that TC is no longer effective. TC will only pull a certain amount of timing, likely based off the stock tuning parameters.
Just like the TC has an activation threshold, it also seems to have a deactivation threshold as well. And if your engine's got the ***** and enough tuned-in timing advance to overpower the changes TC is making, you will in fact blow right through TC.
There was a good thread about this topic a few months ago in the tech section.
the other catch to the system is that if you are running race tires, and are pulling a lot of Gs in the turns, the computer thinks that there is no way you are sticking to the ground (true for street tires, and most drivers), so it'll jump in with the rear brakes when it doesn't need to.
also, if you happen to go flying, it'll think you are on ice, so you land with you brakes locked
The main power loss felt with TC is the timing retardation. With big hp and custom tuning (mainly advanced timing), what you are essentially doing is still maintaining enough timing and enough hp, that TC is no longer effective. TC will only pull a certain amount of timing, likely based off the stock tuning parameters.
Just like the TC has an activation threshold, it also seems to have a deactivation threshold as well. And if your engine's got the ***** and enough tuned-in timing advance to overpower the changes TC is making, you will in fact blow right through TC.
There was a good thread about this topic a few months ago in the tech section.
If timing is the only way it reduces engine power, i'd be surprised. What's the point in having drive by wire throttle? Seems to me that at some point it can simply limit the flow by reducing the throttle angle.
the other catch to the system is that if you are running race tires, and are pulling a lot of Gs in the turns, the computer thinks that there is no way you are sticking to the ground (true for street tires, and most drivers), so it'll jump in with the rear brakes when it doesn't need to.
also, if you happen to go flying, it'll think you are on ice, so you land with you brakes locked
I didn't know that. I have run Road Atlanta with Nitto Race Tires without any problems. Maybe I wasn't take the turns fast enough.