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It's actually an intake air temperature sensor. If your car has a three wire MAF sensor, your IAT sensor is on the driver's side of the air bridge on top of the rad. If your MAF has five wires, the IAT sensor is inside the MAF.
I'm sure you've seen the timing trickers on E-bay--this is just another version of the same--Stock the Iat begins to subtract timing when the air temp sensor reaches about 90*--However this sensor is not accurate as it usually reads air bridge temps or underhood temps which are not Intake air temps--So basically you are getting a false reading--If it is 85* outside your IAT should read 85* but it doesn't-- under normal operation (80*) it will give you a false reading of around 140* which subtracts up to 7* uneccessarily. Many tuners (including myself) delete the entire table----
Let me see if I understand this.... The stock IAT sensor, as well as this "recalibrated" IAT sensor, both tend to read high, which retards the spark unnecessarily. If this is the case, can I just unplug it altogether so it doesn't send any signal?
Unfortunately if you unplug it --the IAT will send the lowest temp possible to the ECM--which sounds good in theroy but GM also put in the program a failsafe that if the IAT temp stays at a constant temp over a certain length of time--it will throw a code--and if not fixed--then the ECM will
eventually put the spark table into the Low-octane mode --again another back-up system to prevent over-timing-- making it a total dog--I believe unplugged it reads -57*--either way the only fix is to "0" out the timing additions or subtractions in the IAT table--usually all the way up to about 160*
I have both the LS1Edit and the recalibrated and relocated ATC sensor and I also have a Scanmaster that tells me what it reads and on an mid 80 degree day cruising on the highway in Texas it only reads 62degrees.
I was told it will give you no power yet keep the car consistant. and it feels that way.