As I had said in my intro I am helping a friend beef up his already "beefy" 99 FRC with: a BPP Procharger kit (7psi); BPP headers; removed cats; off-road x-pipe; Borla cat-back; Racing clutch; and some type of quick-throw shifter.

Problem #1: We took the car to a local dyno to get some numbers and a solid tune and, it put down 502whp and 486 ft/lbs BUT it leaned out at 5K RPM. After further inspection we found that it definitely had the stock fuel pump and (with 37K+ miles) the stock fuel filter complete with factory undercoating. The owner of the dyno/tune shop did two pulls on it and then said he didn't want to go any further until we had fixed the problem. He suggested a fuel filter (of course); possibly a bigger fuel pump; and maybe bigger injectors (60 lb/hr vice the 38 lb/hr @ 50psi that come with the kit). Now I come to my question(s). We found a fuel pump on the Texas Speed website that is an entire Walbro kit for about $390. 1)Does anyone have any experience with these guys and do you think that is a good deal? 2) How difficult is it to swap the fuel pump? Is it anything like the one on the F-body where you either drop the entire @$$-end of the car or cut a square in the body over the tank to reveal the pump in its cosey hiding spot? I am not looking forward to dropping a trans-axle if this is the case.

Problem #2: He was driving the car yesterday while I was working and said that the car started running really rough and threw a code for a faulty air pump on his display bar. He found a blown fuse for the air pump and replaced it. After another 15 minutes of drive time he checked the fuse and it had popped again. So now it is blowing the fuses like mad. After contacting said tuner/dyno owner he said to just unplug it. As I am not too familiar with these cars I don't want to go ripping into the air pump and end up with a pile of tubes and such that used to be an emissions system lying on the ground at my feet. (Although the idea of it sounds remarkable.) Is it possible to remove the emission system air pump altogether without running the risk of ruining the car? Is it as simple as unplugging the air pump and then having the tuner flash the code out and then removing the said unit at a later date?

I am a little stumped here.

Fuel Pump: http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=639&catid=10

 

You will have to have your tuner turn off all the diagnostic enablers connected with the A.I.R. system and make them read " no mill " and "not reported" THEN--in the engine callibrations have him adjust all the A.I.R. tables not to come on--On my personal '98 C5---My AIR pump still came on--So i had to unplug the 2 electrical pigtails on the pump itself ( under the driver's side front bumper)

PS: The A.I.R. check valves have a tendancy to fail also--even when the system is turned off-this will cause exhaust leaks and several codes--It is a good idea to install the ckeck valve "block off plates" under the air tubes----one on each side--easy job--I think Thunder racing has them--- I had to install them eventually on my '98