01 Vert

Morning All
I had my car tuned about a year ago. it has basic bolt ons including supper maxx long tubes and high flow cats. About every 5th time I drive the car I get the p1153 code on the dic. The car has been back to the tuner a couple of times for this and he swears the codes for this are shut off and we shouldn't be getting a code. I spoke to him when I was putting the headers on and he told me to move the rear o2's to the front position and have adapters made so they would plug into the front plugs, which I did. He has been very helpful but we still haven't been able to fix the problem. He suggesed I try new sensors but they are kind of pricey to just try. Also the tailpipes appear to be running pretty rich, all black etc. Anyone had this kind of trouble? If so how did you correct it. Thanks for the help..
Rich

WKMCD

Check with Ed Hutchings in Chesapeake, VA.

01 Vert

is Ed a tuner down there? I was told Tony's corvette in gaithersburg was pretty good also..

tblu92

I wouldn't turn this code off---Any code that deals with the FRONT 02 sensors is a problem that needs to be fixed and not just turned off in the computer--It may be why it won't let you turn it off---
The code suggests a problem with the passenger side front 02 sensor circuit--Most common issues are--Exhaust leaks--poor connections--fouled sensor with silicone RTV---using leaded fuel--alcohol or fuel additive contamination--shorted wire or bad ground

01 Vert

I think i'm going to try the other sensors that I have left over from the swap and see if that helps. this has been a cronic problem even since the headers went on. the car seems to be running rich, maybe that is the computer trying to compensate for the problem. I'm not sure what he meant by turned off but I want to get this fixed properly. thanks for the help

coolbubba

Put the front o2's (use fresh sensors) back in the front with them plugged up the right way. It is my understanding that the air/fuel ratio is adjusted by the computer based on the front sensor readings, the back sensors are there to monitor catalytic converter performance and are not important to the big picture-you can delete the codes for these out of the system entirely. Headers do seem to shorten the lifespan of the sensors so plan on replacing them every few years. I went through this with my '02- good luck.

VicCaerter

do you need some extensions for that or can you get the front sensors to reach that far?

01 Vert

thanks for the input.. that is my next step.. I think he has tuned out the rear so I'll try the new ones up front and see what happens

01 Vert

shouldn't need any..where they are with headers, if I remeber right is real close to where they were factory..

nj02vette

P1153 is Heated O2 insufficient switching (passenger side front).
This is a test to see if the sensor is working.

Check your DTC codes, you should also see a C or an H after the code. If H, that means history and is not a current malfunction. C means current and is a problem.

It could be a lazy sensor. Headers pose somewhat of a problem and it is common to get this code to pop up. I've had it once since my header install. I've also seen where people have drilled small holes in the sensor to increase it's response.

The front 02's are very important for the engine calibration. The rears are there only to monitor if the catalytic converters have gone bad. However, I've read that the rears are actally more sensitive and work better for headers in the front position.

Bounty

I have a 98 C5 and recently installed the LG Streets. My installer intially went with blocking off the rear O2 provisions (LG's come with these block off bolts already in place) and moving the rear O2's to the front position.

Even with tuning out the rear O2 codes my car still threw a check engine light and gave various codes mostly pertaining to "slow switching" between both O2 sensors and ran so rich at times (especially after WOT runs) that you'd smell like gas upon exiting the vehicle...

After installing the proper extensions and the front O2 sensors in the front position on the new headers and leaving the rears blocked off the car now runs fine and has no codes or fuel enrichment issues...

I spent a good deal of time troubleshooting the problem as LG, the installer, and my tuner all had input. The installer had always moved the rears to the front (as per LG) and LG swore by the fact the O2 placement could not be causing the problems. The tuner stated that the error codes being read had to do with slow switching between the front O2's and that rear O2's in the front location could easily be causing the problem due to the fact they were never meant to give those types of readings that fast in real time in their OEM locations. Although they may take a little longer to heat up, once at operating temperature the front O2's are able to keep up with the scanning demands of the PCM.

LG suggested purchasing new rear O2's to place in the front locations but the installer, tuner, and I decided to try the existing front O2's in their original locations as it was an easy and free attempt and if it failed it would cost nothing.

Swapped the correct O2's in with the proper extensions and voila....problem solved!

01 Vert

that is the best story I've heard yet.. that is what I'm going to try.. Hopefully this weekend.. I hope mine does the same thing as yours.. thanks

01 Vert

I finally got the car on the lift [I just put on in my garage, very cool ] last week and swapped the 0-2 sensors and still have the same issue. I drove the car yesterday and didn't get 10 miles from the house and there's the check engine light again. I don't know why the it still keeps throwing a code. I guees I'm off to an expert unless anyone has any ideas? I'm tired of the black tail pipes and the light..

thanks

Rich

chargedc5

Make sure you keep the front two sensors on the headers and yes you will probably need extensions. Now i know it sounds dumb but you could have the two bungs switched. Take the entire wire and 02 sensors on the left side pipe and put it into the right side and right into the left. Hopefully you can understand what I'm trying to say. then reset the codes.

This was the mistake that I made and after replacing sensors and alot of gas I just happened to try it and it worked, (yes it only took 5minutes, I felt like a dumba**.

01 Vert

everything is wired right, I double and triple checked. last weekend I put it up on the lift and swithced the sensors.. Still have the same damn code. same bank 1153 etc. I don't have any idea what the problem could be.. I can't see why it would be in the tuning since it is only one bank.. When the headers were fist put on before tuning it was throwing the codes for both sides. I've been watching it close and it is always 1153. Now I have had two sets of sensors in the car with the same code. I guess to rule out the sensor I could switch them from side to side and see if the code moves with that one sensor.. If anybody has an ideas please let me know. there doesn't seem to be a pattern when it will trip. I does seem like it will do it more with a long pull starting with low RPM. say like from 45 or 50 to 80 with mild throtle pressure.. I have no clue, please kep the ideas coming

Thanks

Rich

01 Vert

now you are making be wonder. I'm 99% sure I have the left sensor plugged in at the left harness at the left side of the engine compartment. I didn't think it would run worth a crap with the wires crossed?

chargedc5

You might want to check it because it will run like crap, it makes it run super rich, (talking from experience). I hope you didnt have it hooked up correct and this is all it is, Good luck!!

jedblanks

FYI, the 1153/1154 1133/1134 codes will only set the CE light on the second consecutive ignition cycle that it fails the test. (From experience on my 1997 C5, not sure if the 01 works the same)

If you pull the codes, you can see the P1153C on the 1st ignition cycle after it throws, but it won't set the light. Then on the second ign cycle, you will see the code 1153C on the DIC immediately on startup, but still no CE light until the test fails again. If the test fails, 1153HC will set and CE light will come on. If the test passes, the CODE will disappear with no H code set, and it will not set the CHECK ENGINE light.

I only mention this because you it might help with troubleshooting if you know exactly when the code sets.

01 Vert

thanks for the heads up.. I'll start checking the DIc and see what is up before the CE comes on. I put the rar sensors back in the other day but only drove it a little. I hope it fixed the problem. we'll have to see

thanks again

01 Vert

new update.. changed front sensors to new high wattage denso O2's and now have 1133 and 1153.. the rears are still in place.. anybody have any new ideas??? this is driving me nuts.. tuner says some do it and some don't.. I really want to fix this crap!!!