Didnt know were to put this thread. But while messing with the vette I got knock while logging. I looked at the IAT and it was 120-130*. Let it cool, and ran again, temps went back up. Coolant is steady at *180 and car runs great. But at 22* timing noticed a little knock. Turned down the knock sensor a tad, thinking the muffler was causing the kr, and ran again... fine. Went to *25 and was fine. Raced a buddy and still fine, but IAT was in the 120-130 range. Went home and on the way did another logg and saw 138* during wot and picked up some knock. Like 2*kr I think.
Is the sensor heat soaked? I have a KN intake. How do I get the IAT down? All my friends hover around 104*

 

first dont adjust your knock sensor. You should have adjusted your IAT sensor reading perimeters.

Second, your temps arent bad. You can chase 2 degrees of KR forever. Normally 2 degrees is acceptible.


just curious if you where in a high gear at low RPM giving a larger amount of throttle. That will cause knock

 

Both times was from a dig... all the way through first, no kr. Didnt see it till mid-top of second gear at WOT. So the temps are normal? They are sometimes 40* above ambiant. IM still learning. What do I need to adjust the IAT parimeters too? Also How much timing is safe with pump gas?

 

if your idling and burning out, your IAT will creep up, and it takes a long time to cycle air through the engine bay.

depending of the outside temperture, it can take three times the amount of time to disapate the hot IAT in the engine bay as it does to develop the hot air gained

 

What do I need to adjust the IAT parimeters too? Also How much timing is safe Should I run?

 

depending upon what your scan says, is the answer.
I zeroed out everything at 122 degree and lower

133 -158 degrees @ 75 -100 KPA manifold pressure I enter the below for each cell
-1
-2
-3
-4
-4
-5
-6
-6
above 158 degrees I dont touch because if the car is going to get that hot, I want the KR to work.

I tried to cut and paste you my table, but it came out all funky

 

Thanx man... You a great help.
any pointers on WOT shift settings? Im trying to get fast crisp shifts. At a good rpm

 

Trannys take a while to understand, and you should do research on here and LS1Tech forums.

If I think off the top of my head your WOT shift points are
6000
6000
5800

or close to that. you can adjust your shift pressure, and shift points, but a sharper, quicker shift I like, you may not enjoy in daily driving.

what tuner program are you using?

 

HP tuners pro... Im probably just going to throw the billet servos I have in it. I should revert the shift pressures to stock right?
Right now I got it crisp during normal driving, but working on the shift timing.

 

a scan will help, but on a dyno you can see where your power drops off in your RPM ranger, and then you'd want your shift shortly there after.

 

I got the rpm were I want it, but at wot it takes (in my mind) just a tad too long to shift gears. I wanna bark tires.

 

When doing tunes i do the same as Phil--i remove all the IAT spark subtractions up to 122* and from 122* on , i remove about 65% of what's showing-- At the drags while staging mine often spikes to 150* It often never goes back down under 130* even after the run--
You can be picking up some KR from the ECT spark deduction table as well---I delete all those subtractions up to 212*--Another area where you can get some false KR is from the traction control or torque mgmt decuctons-You can desensitise the TCS by :
table B6612 (efilive) ETC pedal TQ limit reduction--set entire table to "100"
table B6603 TCS spark retard--remove 80% from entire table
table B1207 abuse mgmt set to "0"
Also on a race type application i will copy the Hi octane table into the low octane table-preventing any deveiations
As far as the shifting goes---i would remove all the TQ management for racing but on the street i would leave some in the 1-2 shift as a modded car could spin the tires at WOT and make you spin out but now you are going quite fast at 55 mph or so--dangerous !! Set the "shift times" to a minimum of .20 at 1-2/2-3 and at 3-4 leave it at "0" Then in the trans presssures--- table B3801 -force motor current-- you can start by subtracting 15% from 42 psi on from the whole table--This creates very crisp shifts--You can try going a little further by subtracting 5 % at a time--but i wouldn't have the 96 psi row lower than a .025 always subtract/add %'s never diviate from the stock scaling---PS: some newer FMC tables have both a hi & lo setting ( table B3802 & B3803--do the identical changes to both--

 

I've personally seen the case of being in a high gear at low RPM with a larger amount of throttle cause knock. Did it accidentally.