quick question for idle control
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
quick question for idle control
When guys swap to auto like a glide or th400, how do they keep the idle good with dbw? I currently have a manual valve body 4l60 and it wants to die when I put it in gear. It's got me to the point of going to full auto.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Really need more info on your engine combination---
If you have a cam and an automatic usually a stock converter is not loose enough at idle---as you should set the idle above the stock 550--
If you have a stock cammed LS1 then it's a simple matter of tuning--and not with any handheld but with HP or EFILIVE--
LT headers is another issue as well---They most always create idle-surging and dying issues---
Remember a DBW t-body does not have an IAC (idle air control valve) so in order to compensate and raise the idle speed it has to be done by tuning with the throttle position and " desired airflow table"
A cammed engine would also require adding 2-4* of timing to the base timing table to help it stay running----Usually about 23-26* of timing at idle--
#4
As noted by tblu92 you most likely need to increase idle speed and airflow values. Idle speed is by coolant temp and p/n or in gear so you can idle a bit faster when engine is "pushing" the converter in gear and can also run a bit faster when started in cold conditions.
Besides sides temp and gear status, airflow also can be adjusted for A/C compressor on or off.
Besides sides temp and gear status, airflow also can be adjusted for A/C compressor on or off.
#5
Really need more info on your engine combination---
If you have a cam and an automatic usually a stock converter is not loose enough at idle---as you should set the idle above the stock 550--
If you have a stock cammed LS1 then it's a simple matter of tuning--and not with any handheld but with HP or EFILIVE--
LT headers is another issue as well---They most always create idle-surging and dying issues---
Remember a DBW t-body does not have an IAC (idle air control valve) so in order to compensate and raise the idle speed it has to be done by tuning with the throttle position and " desired airflow table"
A cammed engine would also require adding 2-4* of timing to the base timing table to help it stay running----Usually about 23-26* of timing at idle--
If you have a cam and an automatic usually a stock converter is not loose enough at idle---as you should set the idle above the stock 550--
If you have a stock cammed LS1 then it's a simple matter of tuning--and not with any handheld but with HP or EFILIVE--
LT headers is another issue as well---They most always create idle-surging and dying issues---
Remember a DBW t-body does not have an IAC (idle air control valve) so in order to compensate and raise the idle speed it has to be done by tuning with the throttle position and " desired airflow table"
A cammed engine would also require adding 2-4* of timing to the base timing table to help it stay running----Usually about 23-26* of timing at idle--
This is my first experience with Drive By Wire throttle body so please advise what are/is an HP or an EFILIVE?
Can I override the TPS position in some manner to increase the target idle?
It is really frustrating to have the motor constantly dying, dangerous too as it happened in middle of intersection.
Thanks,
professor jim
#6
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Typically with a trans only swap and idle/dying issues you need yo
1 Increase the idle speed Stock is like 550 RPM --increase to 625
2 Increase the "desired airflow tables" This is available for both in gear and P/N
3 also if these don't fix it---Go to the "throttle follower tables" again avail for both in gear and P/N By DECREASING these tables you will fix dying----Try by subtracting like 20% to where you have the problem IG or P/N ---If you go too far you will get the reverse affect and get a hanging idle--Then simply back off somewhat from the last change
1 Increase the idle speed Stock is like 550 RPM --increase to 625
2 Increase the "desired airflow tables" This is available for both in gear and P/N
3 also if these don't fix it---Go to the "throttle follower tables" again avail for both in gear and P/N By DECREASING these tables you will fix dying----Try by subtracting like 20% to where you have the problem IG or P/N ---If you go too far you will get the reverse affect and get a hanging idle--Then simply back off somewhat from the last change
#7
Typically with a trans only swap and idle/dying issues you need yo
1 Increase the idle speed Stock is like 550 RPM --increase to 625
2 Increase the "desired airflow tables" This is available for both in gear and P/N
3 also if these don't fix it---Go to the "throttle follower tables" again avail for both in gear and P/N By DECREASING these tables you will fix dying----Try by subtracting like 20% to where you have the problem IG or P/N ---If you go too far you will get the reverse affect and get a hanging idle--Then simply back off somewhat from the last change
1 Increase the idle speed Stock is like 550 RPM --increase to 625
2 Increase the "desired airflow tables" This is available for both in gear and P/N
3 also if these don't fix it---Go to the "throttle follower tables" again avail for both in gear and P/N By DECREASING these tables you will fix dying----Try by subtracting like 20% to where you have the problem IG or P/N ---If you go too far you will get the reverse affect and get a hanging idle--Then simply back off somewhat from the last change
Thanks again!
#8
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Yes either HP or EFILIVE ----The table names I used are EFILIVE descriptions of the tables---HP has the same exact tables but may identify them with other words but they are generally all the same
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professorjim (07-21-2016)