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Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit?

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Old 09-24-2002, 10:16 PM
  #21  
ToplessTexan
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Default Re: Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit? (akw408)

You know, I would agree with you 100% if everything else in the car was calibrated with the precision that you're expecting,
I don't expect precision beyond the original design, it's a function of the sensors available. I do expect equal accuracy though. It's the accuracy that I'm most concerned with.

...or if it really mattered. Once you throw in 30# SVO injectors, the entire system is already off anyway.


Hmmm...

I doubt that the system was precisely calibrated from the factory.
I doubt the system was inaccurately calibrated from the factory. Precision is a function of any given sensor's design characteristics.

The way I see it, basically the point of getting the MAF curve as close as possible
Close to what?

is for open loop operation, under WOT. At partial throttle, you don't have to be very precise since there's a closed loop fb system. You have two major parameters to play with at WOT though, the MAF curve and the PEvsRPM curve.
I care about MAF signal for reasons beyond fuel delivery.
Old 09-24-2002, 10:25 PM
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ToplessTexan
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Default Re: Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit? (akw408)

Anyway, this is not worth getting into a huge debate over. Fact is you will probably not notice any SOTP difference. :cheers:
This is why I usually stay away from MAF discussions. :D

BTW, Charlie's velocity physics is correct. The pressure, force/unit area, decreases by definition in a larger cross section MAF sensor (since the force applied hasn't changed.) Remember, "still water runs deep." You are correct that we aren't talking about changes in velocity that have any bearing on cylinder filling though. Anyway...
Old 09-24-2002, 11:57 PM
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akw408
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Default Re: Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit? (ToplessTexan)


I would not be surprised if I took two stock MAF sensors and then got different results from both of them. Not vastly different, but I wouldn't be surprised if worst case difference was 5%. It is a mass produced piece, and that is really quite good tolerances. I doubt that GM took the time to reprogram everyone's PCM to their exact MAF sensor, that's what I was talking about.

Where else besides fuel delivery would we care about air intake? Just curious, since that was pretty much all I paid attention to when I programmed my car and want to make sure I didn't miss anything.

BTW, Charlie's velocity physics is correct. The pressure, force/unit area, decreases by definition in a larger cross section MAF sensor (since the force applied hasn't changed.)
Well, he didn't mention pressure decreasing (or that pressure was a factor at all), and my assumption is that pressure does not decrease with a larger MAF. It may or may not, you may know better than I, but then that's not pure physics anymore (maybe car physics :yesnod: ).
Old 11-18-2002, 03:07 PM
  #24  
Daryl
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Default Re: Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit? (akw408)

HELP. I have a 2002 C5 and have ordered a Granatelli MAF this addition along with the Blackwing and air duct would increase performance. After reading all of these messages I'm more confused than ever. Since I'm not what one would consider mechanically inclined and not educated in the subject of physics I need some help. While I believe the Blackwing and air duct will help the performance of my C5, I'm not so sure about the addition of the MAF. If I install the MAF do I have to re-calibrate my C5? If so, how? Do I disconnect the negative wire to my battery before installation? Or do I return the MAF to ZIP Products unopened? Help! :confused: :confused: :confused:
Old 11-18-2002, 10:53 PM
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Default Re: Should I put my Stock MAF ends back on before I start with LS1-Edit? (Daryl)

Most of the time when you open up the air intake system to allow more air to flow you will see/feel a perfromance increase. To get the max performance from this mod you usually need to increase fuel going in, also because you usually end up running a little lean. Correcting this is done by using a programmer like LS1Edit to change the MAF table or use a MAFT (MAF translator). With both of these you should scan/log data during a run/drive or dyno run to see where your A/F is as a result of the intake mod. Then you will know where you need to go and by how much. A popular scanner is AutoTap.

These mods are not difficult and do not require disconnecting the battery. If you are going to continue with more mods, you will need a scanner and eventually a programmer. Don't be discouraged or afraid to mod, most questions can be answered here on the forum. There is always someone here who as been there, done that on the forum. Good luck. :cheers:



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