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My car showed codes po106 po1035 po155 po300 p1133 p1153 The tech said my car's cats were either modified or missing. He also said the intake was not stock. This was a chevy tech as far as I can tell.
The Corvette specialist basically said the car just needs an axle back to tone down the EXTREME noise. He also said it definitely had an aftermarket cam. He said it needs a tune which would be $165 to $650 depending on what they find and have to do. I was just wondering if there is anything I can do to remedy some of this. They said CEL is on. PO135 bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor heater, po155 bank 2 Sensor 1 o2 sensor heater. Recommend putting the car on a dyno and pulling calibration for inspection and doing some pulls to inspect datalogs
The car exhaust fumes are bad once I pull it into the garage.
If you have a scan tool it could make this diagnosis pretty easy !!...your 0133 and 0155 (bad heater circuit) is most likely causing your 1133 and 1153 (slow response)...these DTC’s would keep your car in “open loop” until the sensors get HOT so the O2 sensors will not be controlling your “fueling” at this time!!...if you have an amp clamp (Harbor Freight) and put it around the heater feed or ground wire it should be drawing about 1.5 amps...that’s what mine draws...you can see if you are getting 12 volts on the feed and check the ground with a 12 volt test light connected to battery positive...if the light is dim your ground is bad...you can also put your leads to the feed and ground leads...you should see whatever voltage your feed wire is...also if you ohm out the O2 sensor heater wires...3.5 to 14 ohms is good !!
If you have a scan tool it could make this diagnosis pretty easy !!...your 0133 and 0155 (bad heater circuit) is most likely causing your 1133 and 1153 (slow response)...these DTC’s would keep your car in “open loop” until the sensors get HOT so the O2 sensors will not be controlling your “fueling” at this time!!...if you have an amp clamp (Harbor Freight) and put it around the heater feed or ground wire it should be drawing about 1.5 amps...that’s what mine draws...you can see if you are getting 12 volts on the feed and check the ground with a 12 volt test light connected to battery positive...if the light is dim your ground is bad...you can also put your leads to the feed and ground leads...you should see whatever voltage your feed wire is...also if you ohm out the O2 sensor heater wires...3.5 to 14 ohms is good !!
OK P0106 is a code for the MAP sensor (manifold abolute pressure)
thers is no such code for a P01035
P0155 is for a bad 02 sensor on the front 02 on the drivers side
P0300 is for a random misfire
P0133 is for insufficient switching of again your front 02 on the drivers side
p01153 is a fault on the PASS side front 02
The MAP code can be a result of an aftermarket cam and a tuner can fix this code
ALL the 02 codes can be a result of LT headers if you have them LT;'s are illegal in most states because the front 02's are moved as much as 3 ' aft and they are not desigened to accurately read that far back--they end up making your engine run pig rich at P/T A tuner can somewhat fix this by adjusting the front 02 switching points but there is no 100% fix With LT headers be prepared to change your front 02's every year or so as when so far back they foul just like spark plugs
To know if your front 2's are working properly anyone with a good scanner can diagnose them They most osscilatte rapidly between .100 and .950 millivolts and have an average voltage between .400 and .500 millivolts When a fromt o2 is dead it will flatline at .450 with NO oscilltion it is bad---
A p0300 is for a misfire many things can cause a misfire Even bad 02's sort out the 02's then move on to the misfire chances are it will go away---A rich mixture from the LT;s will foul spark plugs so you may need to change them as well after sorting out the bad 02 readings