MAF open loop tuning question
So here are my questions:
1. Until how far should I have to dig into the MAF frequencies to dial them at stoich, because there is a point it becomes very difficult to get clean data with steady accel position as I dig deeper into the gas pedal (faster accelerations) while trying not to hit dynamic airflow changes, especially on the street.
2. How do I know its not “blending” with the VE or compensating for transient conditions under these higher accelerations?
3. Until how far should I bring stoich values up in the MAF curve? Sorry for the long post, but hopefully I’m clear in my questions. Thanks.
Last edited by turabo87; Sep 13, 2019 at 07:38 PM.
After you put PE table back to normal the engine will never meet that condition(90%TPS@stoich) because the engine goes into PE mode at between 35-60% TPS depending on how table is setup.
When in PE mode use wide band air fuel ratio to correct the MAF by comparing to commanded PE ratio (table), adding/subtracting to MAF freq (table) until wide band O2 AFR equals PE commanded AFR
Last edited by voda1; Sep 14, 2019 at 04:00 PM.
Steady state measurements minimize the influence of VE blending. If you're really worried about it, complete all your steady state VE work first before doing the MAF curve.
If using a wideband to read acual AFR readings at P/T try to get your fuel trims at "0" or slightly negative--If you disbale the fuel trims sort them out before turning them OFF
When going to WOT your fuel trims if POSITIVE will be carried over to WOT when they are "just before going to WOT"
A negative fuel trim will never subtract fuel when going to WOT However a positive fuel trim will carry that % at WOT as a lean safety
During "rapid changes in aiflow" below 4000 RPM the ECM will use several sensors to set the final fueling By taking the commanded AFR PE ratio----The VE table--and the MAF table and use an average of all three to set the fueing
PS Once above 4000 RPM's the ECM uses at a steady state the PE table for fueling--However is your VE table is NOT spot on the commanded fueling may not equal the ACTUAL AFR rate from your data logger
Not really a big deal as you can trick your ECM to get your desired AFR
Say if with a wideband you are recordong during PE an AFR of 12.0 --BUT you are commanding in your tune an AFR of
12.6 Then you simply trick the ECM by commanding a leaner AFR trying to achieve 12.6 to something leaner and recheck the wideband until you see the AFR you want
The more accurate your VE table is the closer the Commanded AFR is to your Acual AFR reading---all this does is make your engine easier to tune as long as you get the AFR at WOT you want it does not matter how you get it
ALSO remember REAL AFR readings at WOT are only relevant in the gear ratio closets to !:1 on an auto trans this is 3rd gear on a 6 speed it may be 4th gear
( lower under driven gears always show a RICHER AFR as the eng is NOT at full load----
Steady-state 4k RPM is perfectly normal if you're going around a corner with intent to accelerate hard as you exit that corner. So you want your spark and fuel to be dialed in for that. And there's no need have an actual corner, you can get the data you need to tune those tables on a straight road too.
Tuning isn't just about how you actually drive, it's about dialing in every table as thoroughly as possible, and that requires data, and sometimes you can get more of the data you need by driving abnormally.
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My C5 has been MAF only since day one. It's a 2000 and when in SD, uses an abbreviated VE table which sucks and is a pain in the *** to tune.
The goal with MAF tuning is to have it follow commanded fueling period.
OL tuning is a place to start and mandatory when in PE.
So when driving, don't be whacking the throttle all over the place. Drive smooth, lean on it hard when you want data up high in the maf hz.
Lather rinse repeat.
Get it happy then turn on STFT. See how they look. Might match OL might not. Unless you wish to run OL all the time, call it good. But I like the trims. I final tune it with them as gee, that's how it runs every day.
I leave LTFT off. I drag race my pile and I don't need the trims adding to the final fueling.
After 5 years of running a dyno, tuning mostly Mopigs, I got my C5 on the dyno today. Tune was my street/drag tune which I haven't logged forever. Was decently close, but rich in areas so cleaned that up. I'm an A4 car, hard to tune areas below converter stall. But locked it up and fixed all that.
Good for me to see folks tuning their own cars. I learned on my C5 and now tune professionally.
FWIW, I gained maybe 10hp, found good TQ below converter stall and the turd made 500 (in dyno jet terms) we have a Dyno Dynamics.
Keep at it!
Ron

I don't agree with pulling timing as that's not how the engine is going to be running after your done tuning. (How you actually drive the car) If your engine starts to knock it's telling you you're done tuning without going into PE mode. The engine is cooled by the richer mixture and will combat knock and provide the optimal enrichment needed. If you drive around at 4k+RPM steady state then you're just a fool wasting gas. Think about how you actually drive and tuning will become easier.
Let me clarify my statement with this one. I like timing and I want to maximize it to make the most power I can. (I do understand you can run more than necessary and lose power without knock). If you retard the timing when tuning; it won't be optimal when you switch it back. (you may have been able to burn more gas more effectively making more power). My tune is setup to be in PE mode by 4k RPM. In fact just looking it over it's getting into PE as low as 3,600 in some instances. My engine runs cool and never knocks despite the fact I'm running 34 degrees of spark at 4k RPM. (anyone else?) I'm in Florida where it's always hot BTW. Anything in my MAF tune above around 5kHz is in PE just for reference.
To NSFW I'll just say that I guess we all have our ways of making our cars "our cars". If we were ever to meet in that turn you mentioned in equally modified cars with my tune @ 4k RPM in PE mode and 36 degrees spark advance watch for me to pass on the outside as you wonder how that just happened. LOL



















