I have a 97 m6 with a vortex and Borla quads and I was wondering if it would be worth the money to have it tuned\edited. What kind of gains could I expect? Let me know. Thanks :cheers:

 

I definitely feel that it is worth it when performed by a competant tech. There is power within the stk calibration usually 10-12RWHP and much more than that at part throttle when set up properly. The driveability is what we try to improve the most. Afterward the car should be much more fun to drive.

Jeremy Formato

 

5 rwhp in my opinion. Not at all worth it for $500.00. If you had headers, or an after-market cam, a power adder, or something like that I would say go for it - you could get anywhere from 10-30rwhp, but, for a mostly stock car (just like mine) the LS1-Edit, IMHO, is not justified.

Regards,

Mark

 

I got my 98 tuned today with LS1-Edit. I only got +5 RWHP from the tune over the stock progam. However, the difference in the tranny is far more noteworthy. It should have come from the factory holding gears longer and downshifting sooner. Finally, the car responds better to my foot. But at $525, that's some expensive HP! My advice would be to skip the dyno on a near stock car and just do the tranny and torque mgmt tuning.

 

I made 25 hp and 30 tq on my car after an LS1 edit. It was done by Dragon Race Engineering. They also had the fans turn on sooner so my car is running 30 deg cooler. I think it is worth it. kaley

 

:withstupid:
DRE told us they could get 20-30 hp on an intake/exhaust car like mine, and for under $400 on a dyno.

 

I've been down this road and here's my take. First you need to get a baseline wide-band dyno test. But here's where things get dicey. I installed FLP headers, cats and x-pipe a month ago. A buddy did the same on his 2000, so he found another local dyno facility. Three cars went, two MN6 C5's with all the usual bolt on mods (plus headers) and a 2001 Z06 with just Borla Stinger's. Some back ground. My buddy and I both dyno'd our cars in Feb 2001, all I had was a 02 LS6 lid, K&N air filter and Corsa Indy's. My 99 MN6 dyno'd in at 293. My buddy with his 2000 MN6 with similiar mods but plugs and wires dyno'd in at 321. Why such a huge difference it was our AFR's. His were almost right on at 12.8 and mine were horrorable falling to as low as 10.1:1 I was REAL RICH. Fast forward 18 months. I add the following mods:

Blackwing
SLP smooth air bridge coupler
NGK TR55IX spark plugs
MSD wires
FLP headers, high flow cats and x-pipe

My buddy installed TPIS headers, high flow cats and x-pipe

We go to test. Here's the results

My car 313 RWHP
My buddies car 308 RWHP
01 Z06 319 RWHP

Something wasn't right. The Z06 should have come in around 335 to 340. Our cars's felt as strong as the Z06 and the fact that I was with 6 HP of the Z06 confirmed that. So what was wrong - probably the dyno.

Last weekend my buddy in the 2000 drove up to FunFest (90 miles from our homes) and had his car dyno'd there. To set the stage for the results a 2002 A4 with a Blackwing dyno'd in front of him, he came in at 310 RWHP. That is about right on for that car. My buddy goes next BAM 339 RWHP and his AFR's were again just about perfect at 12:8.1

So a few things come to play here. First you need to get an honest baseline. When you go to a dyno facility I'd try and get a few other C5's to go along as baseline cars to compare to. Especially one that have already dyno'd some where and are happy with the results. Tbe Z06 was our baseline car. Get a wide-band test. If your AFR's are good a LS1Edit won't help much. AFR's around 12:8 to 13:2 are about perfect and can't be improved upon. Second I've been told that raising the AFR's 1 point equals about 10 HP. My worst AFR's were 11:8, so I'm guessing I'd only see about 10 HP from a tune. But since I had 6 more HP than my buddy I wonder if I had tested right after him on the dyno at FunFest if I would have come in at 344 or so? I'll never know.

To make a long story short, a tune can be beneficial but you really need to know just how well your car is tuned prior to tuning. I'm looking for another dyno to re-test before I drop $400 on an LS1Edit tune. Hell I could already be producing max power ( and it feels like I am) and in no need of a tune.

The bottom line there is no easy answer to your question without knowing how your car is right now. Good luck

Tom

 

AFVETTE you have a very good point, I try to encourage my customers to have some sort of baseline as well as datalogged run or dyno pull. The fact of the matter is that you may have a good idea how the car is running but it is the internal data that is the most important. You may think you are at max power with your setup because of AFR or near it. However, a quick look into the PCM and one might find that the driveability is lean and therefore richening the AFR @ WOT. This is only temporary and it is in the owner best interest to have this corrected as the AFR will be leaner when the PCM attemtps to correct itself. Another possibility is knock, I have heard people over and over again swear that they'd know if a car was knocking. 95% of the time it is impossible to hear spark knock where the knock sensors are picking it up, and NOT THE FALSE KNOCK THAT EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT (Over 300 cars and I have only seen about 2 instances of false knock). If the PCM is detecting knock and pulling timing usually it is evident in the dynograph but sometimes it is not. So there you have it, one can do his best to diagnose a problem with his car but a datalogger like EFILIVE is the end all answer. Dynoing @ the same dyno is highly recommended and other dynos many times I have seen them read as much as 5% off from a dyno right down the street of the same make and model. Every car is different one just may only pick up 5RWHP but for everyone of those I will have someone pickup 20RWHP. I can honestly say without wavering that the average pickup is 10-12RWHP and that is from peak to peak not counting the other areas where typically there are greater gains.