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I was getting code P1416 so I replaced O2 sensors in bank 2, behind cats and cleared code. 2 days after replacing sensors, check engine light came back on so I scanned and got P1416 again. I thought it could be that one of the new O2 sensors was defective but wanted to check before crawling back under car if I was just missing something as far as a "reset". Anyone have similiar problem?
That's because you have a bad check valve, not a bad O2 sensor.. This is a common fail - they corrode over time and fail.. $15 at napa last time I checked..
P1415 = drivers side (located off hard line just off exhaust manifold)
P1416 = pass side valve (located behind intake)
I have the same problem on my 97, bank 2. do you need to remove the intake plenum in order to replace the valve?
Yeah, but it's really not as difficult as most people think. JMX has created a nice step by step procedure for H/C installs that could be used for this..
I have this code appear once every 6 months or so then it dissapears. I heard lubing the valve may help? What does this valve even look like?
You can see the drivers side valve in plain sight. It's the small round black valve coming off your exhaust manifold. One side has a hard line attached (to the manifold) and the other side of the valve is attached to a rubber hose which finds it's way to your air pump. The pump injects air into your exhaust system and the valve keeps the air flowing in that direction only.. They either rust over time or in the case of aftermarket headers, "flutter" and burn themselves up from increased exhaust flow, so I've been told. I don't run any air related equipment on my car so it's no longer a problem here
From: Spread The Virus!!!!!!! Opie and Anthony XM Satellite Radio
Originally Posted by 99blackFRC
Yeah, but it's really not as difficult as most people think. JMX has created a nice step by step procedure for H/C installs that could be used for this..
sounds like a good excuse to upgrade to a ls6 intake.
I also have the P1416 code pop up a few times per week. Just haven't had time to replace the check-valve, but I did have somebody email me a seemingly easier repair procedure than relocating the intake manifold.
I have not tested this procedure...... so.... use caution!! I would put the impact on a very low setting so you don't damage the AIR pipe from the passenger's side.
Use socket, swivel and extension rod(s) to enable reaching the rear AIR checkvalve from the driver's side of the engine. Both driver and passenger valves are identical, so you can check for the correct socket size to use on the driver's valve. To loosen the valve located behind the intake manifold, use an impact wrench, this is the trick. This will let you remove the valve without removing the intake manifold. If you use a normal socket driver, you'll end up twisting the AIR tube. R/R time is 15 minutes.
Last edited by texasredc8; Jan 27, 2005 at 10:03 PM.