need vpb control arm bushing install help
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 4
From: cincinnati ohio
Originally Posted by Nick Williams
I did a set of the VBP on Nitro C5's car. I just cut one side of the bushing flush with the control arm and then used a press to get them out. Once all the control arms are of the car, changing the bushings is the easy part.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 3
From: Chapel Hill NC
Originally Posted by Nick Williams
I did a set of the VBP on Nitro C5's car. I just cut one side of the bushing flush with the control arm and then used a press to get them out. Once all the control arms are of the car, changing the bushings is the easy part.
Exactly how I did it. No sweat.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 2
From: Lake Worth FL
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06 & '12
Update: got one side of the fronts done last night. Followed VP&P's instructions to cut off 1 side with a sawzall, then press the bushing out with a ball joint press. Got the press from Harbor Freight for $19.99 and it works perfectly!! 
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 0
From: TurtleCreek Twp Ohio
Cruise-In III Veteran
Originally Posted by Shinobi'sZ
You have done more dudes maybe. 
You should really watch who you try and discredit. Maybe learn a little about who you are talking too before trying to school them.
As stated Danny is a very highly skilled Vette guy. Done some of the best suspension set ups around and has a little
driving skill to go along with it.Lets see multiple great set ups for others plus driven the car he set up to what, 7 national championships ......
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: South
Originally Posted by dmtnt
Update: got one side of the fronts done last night. Followed VP&P's instructions to cut off 1 side with a sawzall, then press the bushing out with a ball joint press. Got the press from Harbor Freight for $19.99 and it works perfectly!!
Was this the tool that you got?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
Thanks!!
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 2
From: Lake Worth FL
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06 & '12
Originally Posted by silverz06vette
Replied to your PM as well.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Raftracer, have you any idea why you shouldnt run the Poly Bushings on the lower rear control arms on a C5 street car?
MTI out of Atlanta is putting the bushings on the upper only and stating that lowers are not recomended for street use.
Thanks
MTI out of Atlanta is putting the bushings on the upper only and stating that lowers are not recomended for street use.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 4
From: cincinnati ohio
Originally Posted by wicked96
Raftracer, have you any idea why you shouldnt run the Poly Bushings on the lower rear control arms on a C5 street car?
MTI out of Atlanta is putting the bushings on the upper only and stating that lowers are not recomended for street use.
Thanks
MTI out of Atlanta is putting the bushings on the upper only and stating that lowers are not recomended for street use.
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 2
From: Lake Worth FL
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06 & '12
Since this thread is still alive, I'll add a couple of tips since I've been working on this recently:
1. Use the ball joint tool to push the bushings out of the bore a bit before cutting. This reduces the chance of accidentally cutting into the control arm
2. Use some WD-40 to clean out the bore on the control arm before installing the new bushings
3. I didn't have much luck trying to tap the round end plates onto the lower arms with a hammer as the instructions show. I used a long bolt, nut and some washers, ran it through the arm, bushings, and plates, then used an impact gun to tighten it down and seat the plates.
4. On the rears, you don't need to cut any of the bushings except one on the lower control arms. The rest push straight out assuming you have the Harbor Freight ball joint tool or comparable.
1. Use the ball joint tool to push the bushings out of the bore a bit before cutting. This reduces the chance of accidentally cutting into the control arm
2. Use some WD-40 to clean out the bore on the control arm before installing the new bushings
3. I didn't have much luck trying to tap the round end plates onto the lower arms with a hammer as the instructions show. I used a long bolt, nut and some washers, ran it through the arm, bushings, and plates, then used an impact gun to tighten it down and seat the plates.
4. On the rears, you don't need to cut any of the bushings except one on the lower control arms. The rest push straight out assuming you have the Harbor Freight ball joint tool or comparable.
Last edited by dmtnt; Mar 8, 2005 at 09:02 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 0
From: TurtleCreek Twp Ohio
Cruise-In III Veteran
Originally Posted by silverz06vette
Any other tips?
Got my kit today from VBP, yes they did have them in stock.
I'm going to do the fronts first, then the rears when we pull everything out to change the clutch.
Got my kit today from VBP, yes they did have them in stock.
I'm going to do the fronts first, then the rears when we pull everything out to change the clutch.
We followed Raftracers tips and it went very quickly. Of course I had beaten my stock bushings down so badly that I could nearly push them out with my thumb
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: South
Does the front spring have to be removed to get the lower arms out?
Here is some info I found from a non-GM manual:
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Using the J 33432-A, remove the front transverse spring. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor.
Disconnect the real time damping electrical connector from the shock, if equipped.
Remove the shock absorber from the lower control arm.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm.
Loosen the ball joint stud nut but do not remove the nut.
Using J 42188 separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
Remove J42188and the ball joint stud nut (2).
Remove the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
Mark the position of the cam bolts for orientation when installing.
Remove the cam bolts, washers, and nuts retaining the control arm to the crossmember.
Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle.
Here is some info I found from a non-GM manual:
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Using the J 33432-A, remove the front transverse spring. Refer to Front Transverse Spring Replacement.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor.
Disconnect the real time damping electrical connector from the shock, if equipped.
Remove the shock absorber from the lower control arm.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm.
Loosen the ball joint stud nut but do not remove the nut.
Using J 42188 separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
Remove J42188and the ball joint stud nut (2).
Remove the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
Mark the position of the cam bolts for orientation when installing.
Remove the cam bolts, washers, and nuts retaining the control arm to the crossmember.
Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: South
Originally Posted by John Shiels
no reason to remove it
Will try and get all 4 arms off the front today. That way I can take them into work and battle with them to get he old bushings out.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: South
Here is a decent how to:
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/33162/
Got the rubber out of the rear arms today fronts yesterday.
Yesterday I used a high-speed wheel to cut the rubber, what a freakin' mess that was. Today I used a utility knife and cut the rubber off then used an arbor press. I think this worked much better.
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/33162/
Got the rubber out of the rear arms today fronts yesterday.
Yesterday I used a high-speed wheel to cut the rubber, what a freakin' mess that was. Today I used a utility knife and cut the rubber off then used an arbor press. I think this worked much better.
Last edited by silverz06vette; Apr 19, 2005 at 11:33 PM.
