Holy BOLTS!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee FL
Holy BOLTS!
Okay today i was taking out my rear tire off my 98 coupe just to clean it and their was one bolt that would not come out for nutting! so... i pulled with all my strength and that damn bolt with the nut broke off. Now i dont know what to at all... This is irratating me cause i dont even know if its safe to go out with 4 lugs now... umm any help? thanks. And how much this cost to fix? thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 954
Likes: 21
From: White Oak, GA
Don't get too upset just yet. You can buy wheel studs at NAPA for $1 or $2 each. Get a few for spares.
I understand the rear studs are more difficult to replace (require removing the brake calipers), but the front ones can be knocked out with a couple of blows from a heavy hammer. Some on this forum don't like to strike the studs so they remove the rotor and press the stud out. Depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it. I've replaced a couple on the front and saw no damage from using a 4#sledge hammer.
Then rotate the rotor so the stud falls out (on the inside.) Replace it with your new stud. It does have to be pressed in. You can do this by using some very large and firm washers and a lugnut that is open to allow the stud to pass thru it. You must press it in completely so it clears the hub and caliper on the inside.
I think there is a thread in the tech tips section.
You can probably get away with driving with only 4 lugs holding the wheel on, but don't do it for too long and don't do any racing in that fashion.
Good luck. You can do this; it is no big deal.
I understand the rear studs are more difficult to replace (require removing the brake calipers), but the front ones can be knocked out with a couple of blows from a heavy hammer. Some on this forum don't like to strike the studs so they remove the rotor and press the stud out. Depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it. I've replaced a couple on the front and saw no damage from using a 4#sledge hammer.
Then rotate the rotor so the stud falls out (on the inside.) Replace it with your new stud. It does have to be pressed in. You can do this by using some very large and firm washers and a lugnut that is open to allow the stud to pass thru it. You must press it in completely so it clears the hub and caliper on the inside.
I think there is a thread in the tech tips section.
You can probably get away with driving with only 4 lugs holding the wheel on, but don't do it for too long and don't do any racing in that fashion.
Good luck. You can do this; it is no big deal.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,179
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by C5inWV
Don't get too upset just yet. You can buy wheel studs at NAPA for $1 or $2 each. Get a few for spares.
I understand the rear studs are more difficult to replace (require removing the brake calipers), but the front ones can be knocked out with a couple of blows from a heavy hammer. Some on this forum don't like to strike the studs so they remove the rotor and press the stud out. Depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it. I've replaced a couple on the front and saw no damage from using a 4#sledge hammer.
Then rotate the rotor so the stud falls out (on the inside.) Replace it with your new stud. It does have to be pressed in. You can do this by using some very large and firm washers and a lugnut that is open to allow the stud to pass thru it. You must press it in completely so it clears the hub and caliper on the inside.
I think there is a thread in the tech tips section.
You can probably get away with driving with only 4 lugs holding the wheel on, but don't do it for too long and don't do any racing in that fashion.
Good luck. You can do this; it is no big deal.
I understand the rear studs are more difficult to replace (require removing the brake calipers), but the front ones can be knocked out with a couple of blows from a heavy hammer. Some on this forum don't like to strike the studs so they remove the rotor and press the stud out. Depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it. I've replaced a couple on the front and saw no damage from using a 4#sledge hammer.
Then rotate the rotor so the stud falls out (on the inside.) Replace it with your new stud. It does have to be pressed in. You can do this by using some very large and firm washers and a lugnut that is open to allow the stud to pass thru it. You must press it in completely so it clears the hub and caliper on the inside.
I think there is a thread in the tech tips section.
You can probably get away with driving with only 4 lugs holding the wheel on, but don't do it for too long and don't do any racing in that fashion.
Good luck. You can do this; it is no big deal.
-=Rick
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,402
Likes: 3
From: Raymore Mo
I replaced one of my rear studs last year. You will have to drill a hole in the e-brake backing plate. The new stud will be too long to go in the hole. The backing plate is to close to the spindle plate. Take a hammer and punch and knock the broken stud. Jack the rear end up enough to get the rear tires off the ground. Put car in neutral and spin the rear tires to align the broken stud with a flat place on the backing plate that you will be able to drill through. Drill through the existing hole were the stud goes and into the backing plate for the e-brake. You will need to open the hole in the backing plate to accept the mushroomed part of the new stud. I used a drimmel tool with a small grinding stone. Once you have it opened up, slip the stud through the backing plate into the old stud hole. Pull the stud tight by means of over sized washers. It took me total about little over one hour. If you need more just e-mail me.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 281
From: New York
Ace Hardware nuts and bolts are generally of lower quality and often have unknown specifications.
I use them only for non-critical applications because of the convenience. Their unit price is relatively high, so in my opinion, the quality does not justify the cost.
For stressed components and all mission-critical assemblies, I purchase hardware from Aircraft Spruce, Pegasus Racing, or Summit Racing. Determine what you need ahead of time and place a bulk order to help reduce shipping costs.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html
Aircraft Spruce sell genuine AN and military-spec hardware, including precision-ground washers, nyloc nuts, jet nuts, and both drilled and undrilled fasteners for safety wire applications.
I use them only for non-critical applications because of the convenience. Their unit price is relatively high, so in my opinion, the quality does not justify the cost.
For stressed components and all mission-critical assemblies, I purchase hardware from Aircraft Spruce, Pegasus Racing, or Summit Racing. Determine what you need ahead of time and place a bulk order to help reduce shipping costs.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html
Aircraft Spruce sell genuine AN and military-spec hardware, including precision-ground washers, nyloc nuts, jet nuts, and both drilled and undrilled fasteners for safety wire applications.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,539
Likes: 1,198
From: Dyer, IN
Ace Hardware nuts and bolts are generally of lower quality and often have unknown specifications.
I use them only for non-critical applications because of the convenience. Their unit price is relatively high, so in my opinion, the quality does not justify the cost.
For stressed components and all mission-critical assemblies, I purchase hardware from Aircraft Spruce, Pegasus Racing, or Summit Racing. Determine what you need ahead of time and place a bulk order to help reduce shipping costs.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html
Aircraft Spruce sell genuine AN and military-spec hardware, including precision-ground washers, nyloc nuts, jet nuts, and both drilled and undrilled fasteners for safety wire applications.
I use them only for non-critical applications because of the convenience. Their unit price is relatively high, so in my opinion, the quality does not justify the cost.
For stressed components and all mission-critical assemblies, I purchase hardware from Aircraft Spruce, Pegasus Racing, or Summit Racing. Determine what you need ahead of time and place a bulk order to help reduce shipping costs.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html
Aircraft Spruce sell genuine AN and military-spec hardware, including precision-ground washers, nyloc nuts, jet nuts, and both drilled and undrilled fasteners for safety wire applications.
