Need to replace the clutch in my 01 Z06. How tough is the install? Has anyone done a step by step?

 

I could use the info too.

 

Search for Dope's clutch tutorial. I'll be using it when the weather breaks. If you can't find it, e-mail me and I'll send it to you.

 

Not difficult just a "bit" of work.

http://www.c5frc.com/clutchinstall/

 

yeah...a "bit"

 

Anybody have the link to Dopes how to?

The search works again!!!!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...lutch+tutorial

Will this tranny jack work if doing it on jackstands?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

 

Should work. We used the same on on the 4-post lift but I would use it if I had the car on stands as well.

 

Sweet! I just bought that tranny jack for $50! Nice to see it works as desired. Now to go smoke my clutch so I can do it for a third time!

FWIW I would imagine a tranny jack would make this job a lot easier!

 

Thanks!!

Will pick one up.

 

I've done mine, not hard, just tedeious, time consuming etc. If its your first time dont set any deadlines. If you need any help just ask, plenty of us have done it on jackstands.

 

wow. I have to admit that it looks a little daunting with the whole underside of the car sitting in the street and the motor sitting at an angle! Great "how to" though. Just gotta get up enough nerve to do it now.

 

do yourself a favor and get a new slave and bleeder extender line from Tom at Carolina Clutch. The bleeder line is the best thing you can do for yourself, making clutch bleeding a snap any time after the install. Also, get some high temp heat tape or heat sock to wrap the clutch hyd line that goes between the master and the slave (along the driver side fire wall where it is egregiously close to the exhaust header). Also, use Motul 600 High Temp brake fluid. Other than that, following someone DIY How To will make the install somewhat of a snap. Just dont forget to take your shifter out, unbuckle all electrical and brake line harnesses from the trans/diff/girdle, take your time. I've done several installs completely alone, but it's very helpful to have someone assist at least during the initial reinstallation, getting the driveline back up into the car, prop shaft into the clutch and pilot brng. One other thing, when you have the driveline out you will see the wiring harness conduit dangling down the run of the torque tube. normally this harness sits in 4 aluminum strap clips on top of the torque tube. I do a little mod by zip-tieing the harness up to the roof of the tunnel (drill a couple holes in some of the supporting webbing of the tunnel roof) to hold the harness up out of the way. This will aid in reinstallation, especially at the bellhousing area where the harness tends to want to lay across and get pinched between the tube and bell housing during installation. Just some quick tips.


Robert / Gen 3 Motorsports

 

That's an excellent tip regarding securing the harness to the tunnel roof, Robert. We had one get stuck exactly as you describe last time and didn't discover it until we had the driveline completely bolted back in.

 

yup!! I remember just crankin down on the 5 tube-to-bellhousing bolts wondering why the damnned dube wasnt cinching all the way up to the bell housing!! I was frikkin lucky I didnt damage the harness...

 

Damn! That's exactly what happened to us!

 

Same here. I can't believe I didn't damage something.

Dope

 

lol me too!

ave

 

Cost me $1,400.00 .........

 

Dope's DIY install guide is great!!! Thank you sooo much Dope. I just completed my first C5 clutch swap. Took me 3 Saturdays. Please don't laugh, I know it's a long time, but I think I could do it in half the time next time around (God forbid).

If you are mechanically inclined and have lots of tools, ratchet extensions, and a couple big-daddy jacks, then I say go for it.

The only change I would make to Dope's install guide is the following.

There is one part at the beginning when he talks about getting the e-brake clip out of the retaining bracket, and he mentions that it is a real pain. He talks about using vice grips and lots of little screw drivers to push in all the prongs so it can slip out of the bracket. I screwed around with this for 30 min before giving up and going a different route that I would recommend to anyone.

Just unbolt the mounting bracket!! It is secured by 2 bolts and comes off easy. Once the bracket is off the wheel hub, it's super easy to get access to get that e-brake line out of the bracket.

There are two drawbacks to this:

1. You must pop off your rotor to screw the mounting bracket back in, because these screws secure into the e-brake adjuster assembly, and once you take the bolts out, the assembly will get out of alignment and your bolt holes won't line up anymore. Kind of hard to explain, but it only takes 5 min to pop off the brake-pad retaining bracket and slide off the rotor. In my opinion, much faster than messing around with that darn 1-way locking tab stuff on the e-brake line in a confined area.

2. You must remember to bolt that bracket back on before reattaching the lower shock mount bolts when you're finishing things back up. Otherwise, the shock gets in the way and you'll curse yourself for having to take anything back apart at that point because you are so incredibly sick of having the car apart. Only took me 5 min, but still... Just bolt it back up right after you take it off, after removing the e-brake cable.

Good luck, I say go for it!

 

[quote]There are two drawbacks to this:

1. You must pop off your rotor to screw the mounting bracket back in, because these screws secure into the e-brake adjuster assembly, and once you take the bolts out, the assembly will get out of alignment and your bolt holes won't line up anymore. Kind of hard to explain, but it only takes 5 min to pop off the brake-pad retaining bracket and slide off the rotor. In my opinion, much faster than messing around with that darn 1-way locking tab stuff on the e-brake line in a confined area.

[end of quote]

I concur with removing the bracket, it is a much easier way. On the re-install, I did not have to remove the rotor at all.

And, to answer the question of the thread, that being how hard to install, I would say for the first timer it is a biyatch and somwhat intimidating, especially wiggling around on a garage floor. It can be also a tad bit disheartening to see (and your neighbors) your entire undercarriage of your pride and joy strewn across the garage floor. The advice of not setting deadlines is golden as for dmn sure you don't want to make a mistake and have to do it over again.

Once you have been through it and everything is working well, you will have the sense of accomplishment of doing the job yourself and also knowing more about the C5 than 90% of other owners.

Other advice I may mention is to consider now for any improvements to the driveline, exhaust, tranny braces, tunnel brace etc as you will be definately "in there" .

Good luck.