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Installing new rotors-questions

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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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Default Installing new rotors-questions

I just got my Baer Eradispeed rotors (2pc fronts & +2 rears).

I will be replacing the stock lines with braided lines and I want to upgrade from stock pads.

Lines: Russell vs. Goodridge?

Pads: Carbon Metallic vs. Hawk? (street versions) I want less dust
but not at the expensive of discoloring the rotors. Should I
keep the OE pads on to break in the rotors?

Do I need a brake bleeder kit, I've seen these advertised? Should I stick with OE brake fluid or switch to something else?

Also I will be painting my calipers with the Folia Tek kit. I understand from previous threads that it takes 2 coats. How long between coats and how long before I can re-install.

Thanks,
Tim
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Target Chaser
Lines: Russell vs. Goodridge?
I'm sure that there will be advocates for both, but Goodridge are the only ones that I have never heard reports of inducing the problem described in this TSB.


Pads: Carbon Metallic vs. Hawk? (street versions) I want less dust but not at the expensive of discoloring the rotors. Should I keep the OE pads on to break in the rotors?
For what you want, go with the Hawks - slightly less "grab" in an auto-X scenario, but I doubt you would notice it in normal (or even aggressive) street use. If your OE rotors are still in good shape, use them to bed (break in) the new rotors.


Do I need a brake bleeder kit, I've seen these advertised? Should I stick with OE brake fluid or switch to something else?
You don't need a bleeder kit unless you are doing the job alone (i.e., no one available to pump the brake pedal). More info here (note the different bleed order described in posts #16 and #19). If you aren't sure which applies to you, it is determined by plumbing distance from the master cylinder - farthest first). As for fluid, either stick with the OEM recommendation, or (since you live in a mild climate) switch to DOT4, which has a higher boiling point and slightly higher viscosity.


Also I will be painting my calipers with the Folia Tek kit. I understand from previous threads that it takes 2 coats. How long between coats and how long before I can re-install.
Can't help with this. IMO, powder coating is the only way to go.

Last edited by BW1; Feb 11, 2005 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Forgot to answer question about fluid
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #3  
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I installed Goodridge lines on mine when I installed my Baers. I've had no problems with the TPM's or anything else for that matter. I think that some of the problems people may have experienced in the past may have been affected by their particular choice of tire and/or wheels.
I got my Goodridge lines through Xtreme Motorsports at a good price but others carry them too (L.A.P.D. I believe)
BW1's recommendation on pads seems to make sense to me too, but then again I'm not as concerned with the dusting issues as a lot of people.
As far as bleeding, I would definitely recommend getting a set of speed bleeders. They're not expensive and you can bleed the whole system by yourself if you want to. Just install them in place of your factory bleed screws and follow the directions. They really do work well!

HTH,
Robert
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Target Chaser
I just got my Baer Eradispeed rotors (2pc fronts & +2 rears).

I will be replacing the stock lines with braided lines and I want to upgrade from stock pads.

Lines: Russell vs. Goodridge?
Use the Goodridge with AN fittings on the end instead of the stock 'block' fitting that uses crush washers.

Originally Posted by Target Chaser
Pads: Carbon Metallic vs. Hawk? (street versions) I want less dust
but not at the expensive of discoloring the rotors. Should I
keep the OE pads on to break in the rotors?
If your really worried about dust, use the Delco ceramic pads. If you want a good street pad with some dust use the Hawk HPS compound.

Originally Posted by Target Chaser
Do I need a brake bleeder kit, I've seen these advertised? Should I stick with OE brake fluid or switch to something else?
You don't need a brake bleeder kit unless you are bleeding the brakes solo. Get a set of speed bleeders and use a good aftermarket brake fluid. I use Motul RBF600 for a good balance of cost and performance, but there are many other out there.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 05:37 PM
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I have had the Goodridge lines installed for over 20k miles with no problems. IMO the HAWK HP+ pads dust less than the HPS pads, but either way there will be considerable dusting with either of the HAWKs.

If you want minimum dusting go with the GM ceramic pads, Fred Beans has a good price for them.

FYI - be prepared for a ton of dusting during the first 200 miles or so until the zinc coating is worn of the rotors. Also, you may see an uneven contact patch between the pads and rotor (the entire pad area may not be in contact with the rotor) for the first 2-3 hundred miles. This is normal and the pads will eventually wear in. During this wear in period you may feel some "wobble", especially at the front. This is also normal.

Good luck.
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