How hard is this to replace? Can it be done on jackstands? Also what is the best company to buy from?

Adam

 

$229 at LPE

 

You will need to pull the differential out to do this. Not that big of a deal but very time consuming.

 

 

LPE or DTE. LPE tends to have better prices on their hardened output shafts.

Mark

 

21MC has LPE shafts for 199 shipped.

 

Give Speed Demon in Houston a call. They have the best deals on hardened output shafts IMO.

 

Who ever you go with, be sure you check to make sure it fits before you install the shaft in the diff. The one I got had not be debured really well. Have you ever tried to debur a spined shaft after it has been hardened to Rockwell C50? Not easy! The worst end of my was the one that goes into the axle. Took 3+ hours of deburing to get it to easily slide in the axle. BE SURE to check that it fits in your axle with the clip on the shaft. The groove in mine was not cut deep enough, so the clip would not compress enough to clear the splines and would not slide in the axle. I spent another 3+ hours making the clip fit! A lot easier if you find all this out before you have the shaft installed in the diff. The only burs on my shaft was where the grove for the clips were cut in the splines on each end of the shaft. Rest of the shaft looked really good.

 

Which brand?

 

any write up on how to do this?

 

http://www.c5frc.com/DIY/Hardened_Ou...haft/index.htm

Check Clutch Install to remove it from the car.

 

not according to this link

http://www.21stcenturymusclecars.com/driveout.asp

 

This was a Christmas special.

 

$199 Shipped

Price good until March 15th. 2005

Twenty First Century Muscle Cars
Authorized Lingenfelter Performance Dealer
www.21stcenturymusclecars.com
972-417-7177

 

Glad to see your still offering the deal.

 

21 are you running any specials on gears?

 

Check this out. This is real easy to do yourself I did this in less than 1 hour when I had my diff out.
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(You might have to page Joe S to get the pictures?)
Great info and pics.

Maybe I could add my .02. Takes about an hour or less but take your time and be careful not to bubba up the shaft, gears or bearings. Using the pics posted above, it kinda goes like this.

With the carrier on a bench.

-Remove speed sensor (10mm)

-Remove right side cover (10mm)

-Remove both c-clips on the outside ends of the shafts

-Remove two allen screws on both sides of stud that goes through transmission

-Remove stud that goes through transmission (double nut it and then back it out). Hold onto the metal block inside the housing that is preventing the carrier from being pulled out.

-Remove the ring and shaft assembly from the carrier (Carefully to protect the bearings).

-Place the assembly in a vise (rubber jaws advised) or something to hold it helps.

- Remove the 10 bolts (13mm?) holding the ring gear assembly together. http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/bc/7b5729f...CbhtiBBR2obepMA

- Remove the pin that holds the two planetary gears in place. http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/bc/7b5729f...CbhtiBB0l7SUaJL This pin needs to be installed as it is removed and be sure it goes through the center of the gears. Before installing it, make sure you have the other 8 bolts of the ring gear assembly snug. Then slide this pin back in with the holes such that the last two bolts go through the pin and tighten them all down to 41ftlbs.

- You do not need to remove the Ring Gear or bolts

- Carefully slide the center section down the shaft and remove. http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/bc/7b5729f...CbhtiBB4ngF58ip

- Make sure not to mess up the order of the friction discs. If careful enough, you don't even have to remove them.

- Remove the c-clip on the other end of the output shaft and remove the gear and housing. Again, keep it all in the same order.

- Now just reverse the process to assemble. Make sure the housing goes back the way it came apart, that the pin is intstalled correctly (don't force it. If it doesn't go with some soft whacks of a rubber headed hammer and or a brass punch pin, check that the gears are lined up correctly and the housing is snug before you start.

- I put some sealer on the allen head screws, tranny bolt, and outer housing bolts just to be safe.

- Make sure you put the side cover back on the same way it came off. Bolts holes need to line up of course.

(Note: You do not need to remove the pinion gear or left or rear housing covers. And be carefull inserting the assembly back in the case as there are both bearings and seals there).

First time I did this I took my old 2.73 rear that was wasting away in my shed and ripped it apart to see what it took. It was a good practice run.
__________________
Joe Santacroce
Corvette Tech, Inc.

 

Don't you have to set tolerances? And have some expensive tools to do all of this? There are some gear shops in Houston that won't touch a Getrag diff because of this and that includes Pyle Bros. who are very well known in Houston. They told me they simply did not know how to set up this diff properly.

 

No you don't even have to remove the pinion gear or the shims.

 

Sorry I didn't read carefully, I thought you were giving instructions to change the ring and pinion, not just the shaft. Duhhhhhhhh....