Change The Pads Too???
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 96
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From: Avondale Arizona
Change The Pads Too???
I'm in the process of replacing my stock rotors with some drilled & slotted ones(bling) The pads on the car now have at least .125 in. left before they hit the squeelers on the fronts, and close to .188 on the rears. I've had the car for about 45K miles and haven't touched the pads. Should I replace these pads or get some more wear out or them????
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
As long as your careful and check the wear, I'd keep the old pads and this is why.
You should when possible break-in (season) new rotors with old pads, as long as the old pads are still in good shape.
The reason for this is that new pads have reduced friction right out of the box and aren't "conformed" to the specific wear pattern of your car.
Every brake system is just a bit different and by using the old pads you are more likely to get a nice even contact on the new rotors.
Some people say new with new, that's an old myth. One for the MythBusters?
When you install the new pads, it very important that you bed those pads in carefully. Skipping this step is one of reasons for noise, vibration and poor performance.
The new rotors and/or pads should come with instructions on the manufacturers recommend break-in procedure. If not my favorite way, but a PIA:
While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.
Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.
The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.
Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 10 seconds between each brake application.
Note: The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for a few miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.
Note: When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
You should when possible break-in (season) new rotors with old pads, as long as the old pads are still in good shape.
The reason for this is that new pads have reduced friction right out of the box and aren't "conformed" to the specific wear pattern of your car.
Every brake system is just a bit different and by using the old pads you are more likely to get a nice even contact on the new rotors.
Some people say new with new, that's an old myth. One for the MythBusters?
When you install the new pads, it very important that you bed those pads in carefully. Skipping this step is one of reasons for noise, vibration and poor performance.
The new rotors and/or pads should come with instructions on the manufacturers recommend break-in procedure. If not my favorite way, but a PIA:
While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.
Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.
The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.
Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 10 seconds between each brake application.
Note: The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for a few miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.
Note: When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
Last edited by Mighty-Mouse; Mar 10, 2005 at 03:23 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by pocorojo
I'm in the process of replacing my stock rotors with some drilled & slotted ones(bling) The pads on the car now have at least .125 in. left before they hit the squeelers on the fronts, and close to .188 on the rears. I've had the car for about 45K miles and haven't touched the pads. Should I replace these pads or get some more wear out or them????
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
Does GM seat the brakes?
Just wondering I bought my C5 new and did not exceed 50 for the first 500 miles 
and did easy breaking. But do new cars get a brake break in? I know years ago the owners manual cautioned about hard braking for the first 500 miles.. Does this still hold true?
and did easy breaking. But do new cars get a brake break in? I know years ago the owners manual cautioned about hard braking for the first 500 miles.. Does this still hold true?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by jimcork1
Just wondering I bought my C5 new and did not exceed 50 for the first 500 miles and did easy breaking. But do new cars get a brake break in? I know years ago the owners manual cautioned about hard braking for the first 500 miles.. Does this still hold true?
and did easy breaking. But do new cars get a brake break in? I know years ago the owners manual cautioned about hard braking for the first 500 miles.. Does this still hold true?Because 99% of the people aren't going to do a real pad seating sequence so the most GM can hope for is people don't get an early pad glazing.
