Poly control arm bushings
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City OK
Poly control arm bushings
What is the lifespan of a daily driven C5's stock rubber bushings? I've already changed out all the sway bar bushings and I'm thinking of changing the control arms bushings as well. My vette has 64k miles on it so is it time? Also, do you have to burn out the bushings with a torch or do they come out easier than that? My camaro was a nightmare when I had to change these things out out 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 2
From: Lake Worth FL
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06 & '12
Install is a PITA. I bought a ball joint press from Harbor Freight that made the job a lot easier:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
Some other tips:
1. Use the ball joint tool to push the bushings out of the bore a bit before cutting. This reduces the chance of accidentally cutting into the control arm
2. I used some WD-40 and a rag to clean out the bore on the control arm before installing the new bushings
3. I didn't have much luck trying to tap the round end plates onto the lower arms with a hammer as the instructions show. I used a long bolt, nut and some washers, ran it through the arm, bushings, and plates, then used an impact gun to tighten it down and seat the plates.
4. On the rears, I didn't need to cut any of the bushings except one on each of the lower control arms. The rest push out far enough to pull out by hand assuming you have the Harbor Freight ball joint tool or comparable.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
Some other tips:
1. Use the ball joint tool to push the bushings out of the bore a bit before cutting. This reduces the chance of accidentally cutting into the control arm
2. I used some WD-40 and a rag to clean out the bore on the control arm before installing the new bushings
3. I didn't have much luck trying to tap the round end plates onto the lower arms with a hammer as the instructions show. I used a long bolt, nut and some washers, ran it through the arm, bushings, and plates, then used an impact gun to tighten it down and seat the plates.
4. On the rears, I didn't need to cut any of the bushings except one on each of the lower control arms. The rest push out far enough to pull out by hand assuming you have the Harbor Freight ball joint tool or comparable.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 2
From: Lake Worth FL
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06 & '12
Originally Posted by 3C2
Thanks for the tips, I think I'll pick one of those up. Could you feel a significant difference at the track or even just riding around town?
They say you can run less negative camber with poly bushings since there is much less deflection.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,762
Likes: 2
From: Murphy TX
VBP has some decent instructions with pics and you should also post for input in the AC/RR section. this comes up quite frequently there as well.
Consensus is that it isn't worth it unless you are REALLY good or have to replace them anyway. IF they are worn and you're planning to replace them, go for it!!
Consensus is that it isn't worth it unless you are REALLY good or have to replace them anyway. IF they are worn and you're planning to replace them, go for it!!
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,879
Likes: 3
From: Hobart, WI
The front lowers are the first to go and you can see them being forced or "extruded" out of the arm when they are bad. If they look ok and you are not road racing or autocrossing save yourself the PITA.
