Bluemill

The best fix I found- and that was like 9 years and 80,000 miles ago, was to replace the seat track- BUT you can get them for a much lower than Chevrolet price from Dino's Corvette Salvage, in Picyune, Mississippi. Make sure you get the right one- talk to them first to match your car, then get it for a fraction of the GM number. Dino got a bunch of them from a guy who made executive office chairs out of C5 seats.

Then once you replace the track, from then on, gently sit down into your seat, for if you just drop your body weight into the seat, you'll loosen it back up in no time. I got my car used with 15,000 miles on it, and the seat rocked like 3/4", my feet left the pedals when you booted it!

Now, I finally have to do the slide job fix with the washers- but that took almost 100,000 miles before I needed to do it. Enjoy!!

Best always,
Bluemill

Chris Edwards

I was sick of the seat rock, which is caused by worn bushings in the up/down mechanism. I started by purchasing a passenger side manual seat rack off a Z06 from Dino's Corvette salvage. In order to use the passenger seat track on the drivers seat and retain the stock seatbelt a, the seatbelt receiver bracket must be swapped to the right side, and the bracket from he right side must be moved to the left. I used a a cut-off wheel to remove the brackets (takes about 90 seconds per side). Then I smoothed everything down, tig welded the brackets, self-etching primer, and semi-gloss black. No more seat rock, I can finally enjoy the stock seats without feeling like I'm riding around in an 84 Berlinetta.

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9809dan

I haven't been on the forum for a while. I thought a year or so ago some member Radioflyer? or someone else was selling shims at at a good price. Any ideas? 9809dan.

Jeff T.

Search a little more there are plenty of threads on how to fix the problem using nylon washers available at your local hardware store.

Good Luck...

smittydog

I'm having the rocking issue to and have fixed the slide problem. The slop is in the mechanism that elevates and lowers the seat. It looks like where the pins anchor the motor slop occurs. The were not seated and I stuffed them back into place. Seems to have improved the issue. Can anyone verify where they have found slop in lift portion of the seat?

Chris Edwards

I could not solve the issue to my satisfaction so I converted to a manual seat rail. I never used the up-down mechanism anyways.

frsr06

Ditto here - just fixed the slide issue now I have a noticeable rocking problem. Kinda feels like I'm sitting by the fireplace.

T_Vert

I have the exact same issue of a rocking seat that is NOT due to the worm gears in the tracks. On mine I isolated it to the device that tilts the seat up and down that is connected by the plastic drive that comes from the tilt motor. There is a a splined shaft that is supposed to hold this mechanism from moving but the splined shaft is only splined for a portion of its length and when the seat rotates the bracket that holds this mechanism flexes a tad, the mechanism moves a fraction of an inch and the splines disengage from the mechanism and it pivots a tad. I'll try to find a pic that I took years ago. I've never found good solution for this, I tried to put a washer in there between the flexing bracket and the mechanism to keep it engaged on the splines but that didn't work for too long.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5dxkbmws3x...%20%282%29.jpg
Dave

smittydog

Mine had two little pins with raised edges (like an old school door hinge pin. I pushed it out a little, put some loctite on it and jamed it home. The white plastic piece that lifts the front of the seat had some slop alse. I pushed that pin out and it a worn spot from continous contact. I loctited that and pushed it back in place but left it out about 1/8" of an inch to provide a fresh location for wear. The front two upper pieces that bolt to the seat were attached to the lower assembly with large rivit type fastners. I drilled these out, found bolts with soulders slightly larger and drilled the brackets out till they were almost a press fit on the bolt shoulder. Shimmed and tightened up so no binding. Car is in pieces but preliminary testing in the garage looks good. Will update in a couple of weeks when the car is painted and reasembled.

smittydog

Seat is working great. No more rocking! Working on something more permanent than epoxy to fix lose pins on seat up and down actuators!

frsr06

Smitty - Would you happen to have any pictures?

smittydog

smittydog

Green were rivet type that I drilled out, bored holes slightly larger so they were round again and replaced rivet with a shouldered bolt.

smittydog

purple was pins that had a worn are. Backed these out used some superglue on the shank and pushed back in place but did not fully seat. This provided a fresher part of the pin with less wear for a tighter suspension. Been 3 or 4 months now and working great.

smittydog

Red are the pins that you will probably find backed out and touching the sliding part of the seat frame. Loctited these up and jammed back in place. Was going to cut up a small piece of angle steel and bolt it in place where the pin comes through for extra support. Probably wont get to until seats are loose again. Been 3 or 4 months now and working great.

tmtraylor

Smittydog that's brilliant!!!! Here's what I did a couple of days ago. Nylon washer where the vertical adjustment rod meets the sliding seat rail. So far, so good and the seat is solid one again. I thought my "sliding seat / Lieblweb washer fix" had already worn out after 6 months on the job, but not so. The seat moving was the flex allowed for between the seat rail /vertical adjustment rod and roll pin joint.

A cross brace structure to tie the top sliding rails together would my next step as well when this wears out.

shadowman1

I had the rocking seat (not sliding) and found the same thing. Pins had slop allowing just a little give which was enough to allow the seat to slightly rock. I removed the pins and put loctite in the holes to take up the extra space and reinstalled. Has worked for over a year now.

Bluemill

I have a question for all you guys that used the Loctite. Is that a trade name for an epoxy mix or Loctite that you use on nuts and bolts to keep them from backing off?

What I'd love to do, and likely will have to someday, is pull my old tracks and try epoxy in the spline holes. My car only had 17,850 miles on it when I got it and it rocked badly. I'm 220 lbs and the 2nd track has lasted 9 years just fine, but I do sit down very gently!!!

Best,
Bluemill

miracle_whip4130

Sorry to revive this thread but I was also wondering what type of Loctite was used for this, smittydog. I assume it's the epoxy type that comes in the tubes like JB weld, and it probably doesn't matter much as long as it's not the Loctite thread locking compound, but just thought I'd ask.

Also, regarding the pins by the purple arrows in the diagram, are those actually pins that press straight in/out or are they threaded? I ask because it looks like they have a bolt head on them that might fit an external torx socket.

Thanks.

Bluemill

My diagnosis on the rocking are the black splined 3" long pins that all the machinery pivots on. They are fragile because they are only splined and not threaded as they should be, and they are hanging on only one side of that hunk of aluminum that they are driven into. When you plant your butt into the seat you pounding down with weight and leverage on to long pins that are poorly anchored by splines, not threads. The threads would be better, epoxy in the anchor holes would help, BUT the real permanent fix would be outside support of those pins, as they are hanging out there in the breeze!

Best,
Bluemill