It took about nine hours. Nothing too difficult.

Big difference. The car should have came this way.

Well ............

 

You are so right, it should have come that way. Those headers really make a difference in the way the car sounds and I hope you see the performance gains that you are after.

Congratulations on the install and the sense of accomplishment you undoubtedly got out of doing it yourself. To your continued success

 

Thank You

 

Congrats. Few questions for you. Was this the most difficult/mechical job you have performed on your car. What were some sticking points? Any help hints? I have done a few things to my car but headers will be the biggest yet and just wondering you skill level and things you had problems with. How did you jack up the car? What height was required (aka, rhino ramps, jack stands, lift) Thanks. I too look forward to this mod. Enjoy it.

Jim Kay

 

Hi Jim,

Back in my younger days, I did quite a bit of wrenching, clutches, valve jobs and such. I am also a engineer so trouble shooting is second nature to me. With all that said, headers are not a complicated job, just time consuming. There are no tolerances to be careful of and really nothing to put in backwards.

You need to get the car lifted pretty high 20” + in the front. I used some RV jack stand I got from Pep boys. I also got a nice set of ramps from them and a cool racing jack for the quick jobs. I already had a 3 ton jack and regular height jack stands.

To lift, I drove onto the ramps and then I lifted the rear of the car to a good working height on the normal height jack stand. I use the cross member to lift. I next jacked the front of the car up to about 20” using the RV jack stands. I left the rams under the wheels for safety and they are handy to use as steps now that the car is off the ground. It is also nice to have a few hockey pucks on hand. I also placed some 20 lbs dumb bells under the rear tire for safty. They also make great wheel stops for the quick jobs.

I did it all by myself. When bolting the headers to the heads I used my race jack to lift the end of the header to help line up the holes. I put one bolt in the middle to hold it. Then I put the gasket on the front with a bolt and then I swung it into place. You may need a puck on the jack.

When you wire the O2 sensors make sure the wires will not touch the headers. The rear pretty much wire up like stock. They do cross in the back stock. Make sure you put them back that way. For the fronts I drilled a hole in the front of the torque tube cover and tie wrapped them to that. I also tie wrapped them above the cross brace for the headers close to bell housing. They are far away now.

Since you have to take the plugs and plug wires off, I install new iridium plugs and magnecore wire.


Take care,

 

Congrats on the install!

 

Congrats i just finished removing my kooks & installed LG's