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I had the same problem with a Fram filter on my pickup. I went to Autozone and got a steel oil filter socket. That did the trick. The plastic sockets flex and slip under high torque.
This happened to me last time I changed my oil. I took the black cap wrench (from Wal-Mart) and drilled two holes into it and placed in onto the filter. I used metal screws and drilled those into the filter and cinched the screws all the way in and placed my socket wrench on the bottom and it came off. I've heard of the screwdriver working, but also when it too tore off the bottom. The black wrench from Wal-Mart trick worked for me.
After considering all of the suggestions, I decided that I would go with the screws on the filter. But...after securing the Wal-Mart tool around the filter, I could not get enough torque because the darn plastic cold flowed both with the hex drive and 3/8 square drive. I went down to Kragen and found a channel lock type oil filter tool (curved jaws)with a decent lengh extension. Came back and barely had enough room to grip the screwed in tool and cranked and gripped like hell and it finally came loose. Without the screws the channel lock would not have had enough clearance for the jaws to grip the filter.
Wow! What a scare. Hopefully, I can resist the fear of leaking and just tighten the thing 1.5 turns this time. Hmmm, is there a torque setting for the filter?
I thank all of the members for your suggestions. Hopefully, what I did will help someone else. The forum has a great bunch guys. Thanks again.
After considering all of the suggestions, I decided that I would go with the screws on the filter. But...after securing the Wal-Mart tool around the filter, I could not get enough torque because the darn plastic cold flowed both with the hex drive and 3/8 square drive. I went down to Kragen and found a channel lock type oil filter tool (curved jaws)with a decent lengh extension. Came back and barely had enough room to grip the screwed in tool and cranked and gripped like hell and it finally came loose. Without the screws the channel lock would not have had enough clearance for the jaws to grip the filter.
Wow! What a scare. Hopefully, I can resist the fear of leaking and just tighten the thing 1.5 turns this time. Hmmm, is there a torque setting for the filter?
I thank all of the members for your suggestions. Hopefully, what I did will help someone else. The forum has a great bunch guys. Thanks again.
Congratulations, and what a relief. In answer to your torque question: YES. The drain plug spec. is 18 ft. lbs. and the filter is 22 ft. lbs.
First time I did my oil the filter was on "hand-tight" and the plug seemed welded on (it was so tight). No better reason to do it yourself!
Now go have yourself a cold one "on the forum"! Put it on one of the moderator's tabs!
my first profession was an automotive tech.. I just use a LARGE pair of channel locks. All other filter wrenches are made poorly. Think about it- smooth gripping sides on the wrenches, painted oil filters, plastic filter grip wrenches, and oil. All this does is set you up for skinned hands and a lot of swearing.
the channel locks should be around $20
If your using the strap, keep it to the bottom of the filter. The middle is structurely hollow and will collapse it. The bottom has the support of the bottom of the filter.
Also... you could use multiple options at the same time. Use a socket and a strap at the same time. Get another hand of the filter.
On the few times that I had to resort to the screwdriver method on other vehicles, I found that making a single piercing hole at the bottom of the filter first worked very well to drain it in a controlled manner. It's a better approach than simply punching through and draining everywhere. After the filter drains you can do whatever you need to do to get it off. And since the filter is no longer functional, you will be very committed to removing it!
the rubber gasket should not allow anyone to overtighten the filter to the point that one cannot get the filter off! about 20 years ago, i bought a '69 coupe. one of the first thing i did was a fresh oil change - well that took like 3 days. it seems that the previous owner took it to one of those quick lube places, and the minimum-wage-high-school-dropout technician failed to lubricate the rubber gasket when he installed the filter. well i tried all kinds of straps, sockets, and other assorted removal tools - the housing of the filter just collapsed. then tried the screwdriver - well the oil filter was a house brand cheap-o, and the metal was paper thin, and the screwdriver tore through that like a hot knife thorough butter. i finally had to rip the whole thing off and get down to the metal flange that screws into the block. the oil return holes are about .25 inches in diameter, so i took two quarter inch bolts and used a lever arm to slowly twist the flange off. once i got it off, it was clear that the gasket was bone dry! remember to always lube the gasket!
I changed the oil last weekend and I couldnt get the filter off. The dealer did the last oil change. I tried two differant oil filter wrenchs and couldnt get it off. I had 3000 miles on the filter so I left it on and just changed the oil. I know it's not the best thing to do, but I was pissed at it. The oil in the car gets changed once a year at 3000 miles.
Thanks. Using the torque setting is better than the "do not over tighten" spec. I bet there are as many tightness as there are individuals with different physical strength. In my case when I installed the filter, (seal was oil coated) I simply used my own judgement of feel and it was too tight. On the other hand, maybe it wasn't really on that tight...I just couldn't get a good grip. I think I will switch to the K&N filter with the metal welded nut, rather than the Fram which has some funny grit coating at the end of the filter which hinders the filter tool.