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How to remove wheel stud?

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Old May 14, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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Default How to remove wheel stud?

New discovery. One of my front wheel studs is completely stripped.
Only two good threads outside of rotor.
Does any one know the repair procedure?
Are the studs the pressed in or screw in type?

Thanks for any input.

Last edited by magredZ51; May 14, 2005 at 07:52 PM.
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Old May 14, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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ttt
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Old May 14, 2005 | 08:42 PM
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I do believe they are press in. And the wheel hub needs to come off.
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Old May 14, 2005 | 09:39 PM
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I think on the fronts you can remove the stud without removing the hub. You will of course need to remove the caliper/rotor.

On the rear you need to remove the hub for sure.
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Old May 15, 2005 | 12:30 AM
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They are press in, fronts are hard to get in witouth a press, easy to remove, just pop them out front the ouitside with the broken stud and nut.....
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Old May 15, 2005 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by silverz06vette
I think on the fronts you can remove the stud without removing the hub. You will of course need to remove the caliper/rotor.

On the rear you need to remove the hub for sure.
One of my fronts is stripped, hope I can do it just removing the caliper and rotor.
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Old May 15, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by aprsr
They are press in, fronts are hard to get in witouth a press, easy to remove, just pop them out front the ouitside with the broken stud and nut.....
use a good nut and washer and then just pull it through, easy as pie
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Old May 16, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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I replaced a rear wheel stud on my old C4 by drilling out the stud. It had twisted off close to the flange, so I didn't have to drill very deep. Before drilling, you may have to grind a small flat in the center of the stud. Next eyeball the center and use a center punch as the starting point. The first drill bit should be around 1/8", and this will take the most time. Once you get its depth past the splines and the backside of the flange, you can use incrementally larger drill bits to enlarge the hole. This drilling goes fairly fast and you spend just as much time chucking and unchucking. Once the hole is enlarged, there is very little fit pressure between the flange and the splined bottom of the stud, and it can easilly be tapped out. Just don't drill into the flange if your hole is significantly off center.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WHINER
use a good nut and washer and then just pull it through, easy as pie
small taps with a hammer while you turn the wrench will speed it along and keep it from binding when you pull it in.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
small taps with a hammer while you turn the wrench will speed it along and keep it from binding when you pull it in.
wrench ?, I use an impact gun. I'm not fond of hand-jobbing
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Old May 16, 2005 | 10:30 AM
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I rather enjoy a hand job from time to time!
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Old May 16, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lost
I rather enjoy a hand job from time to time!
well of course it is better to receive than


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Old May 18, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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thanks for all the tips. After removing the 2 M14 caliper bracket
bolts to the knuckle ( PITA ), I removed the rotor and went to work on the stud. I first tried to press it out with a c-clamp ( used a 3/4 nut as a spacer on the backside ). Did not work, I bent the handle on the c-clamp. So, i tapped it out with a hammer. Not bad, did not have to hit very hard. I used the washer method to pull the new stud in
via, impact wrench.
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