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I know ther are many write ups here on changing your rotors, I have gone through and read some, and printed one to use as a guide. My question is none of them make any referrence to bleeding the brakes afterwards. Is this because it is so obvious, or because it doesn't need to be done? Please help, I am going to be doing my rotors tomorrow, so I kinda need an answer! :o
Thanks,
Sam.
I know ther are many write ups here on changing your rotors, I have gone through and read some, and printed one to use as a guide. My question is none of them make any referrence to bleeding the brakes afterwards. Is this because it is so obvious, or because it doesn't need to be done? Please help, I am going to be doing my rotors tomorrow, so I kinda need an answer! :o
Thanks,
Sam.
I know ther are many write ups here on changing your rotors, I have gone through and read some, and printed one to use as a guide. My question is none of them make any referrence to bleeding the brakes afterwards. Is this because it is so obvious, or because it doesn't need to be done? Please help, I am going to be doing my rotors tomorrow, so I kinda need an answer! :o
Thanks,
Sam.
No need to bleed your brakes, for normal street use, more than about every 3 years. A rotor change doesn't require it per se.
Excellent, thanks for the help....Any pointers on what not to do with the calipers, so that I make sure I don't need to?
As has been said, there is no need to bleed the brakes for a straight rotor swap. Unbolt the two 21mm caliper bracket mounting bolts, remove the caliper and place it on top of the suspension arm. This is a good safe place to rest it and it doesnt put any tension on the brake line. Some of the rotors may be stuck, so just be careful and try to wiggle them loose. Some liquid wrench may help loosen the rust. Use a rubber mallet if necessary to bang off the old rotor. Considering you have aftermarket wheels, I doubt you have the factory rotor clips, but if you do these need to be removed. Dont replace them. Good luck with the swap!!
Whenever I change rotors or pads, I routinely bleed about 2" of fluid to get fresh fluid in the caliper. When changing pads, you should also crack the bleeder screw so you inadvertedly do not get air in the ABS system.
Whenever I change rotors or pads, I routinely bleed about 2" of fluid to get fresh fluid in the caliper. When changing pads, you should also crack the bleeder screw so you inadvertedly do not get air in the ABS system.
Just think about the situation, knowing that the original rotors and/or pads have probably worn a little thinner. In order to slip the caliper and pads over the new (thicker) rotors, you are going to have to push the piston back into the caliper. This can be done with a C-Clamp, but there are some concerns about pushing the fluid back into the ABS system. The safest thing to do is crack the bleeder fitting a little to let the fluid out here. If you position the caliper properly, you can push the last bit of fluid out while tightening the bleeder screw insuring that you don't get any air into the caliper.