Going to the track with A4???
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 418
Likes: 1
From: Chicago, Midway IL
Going to the track with A4???
gonna be going to the track soon with some friends with GTo,s I have a 99 A4 vert, I have a zip tie mod ,160 stat and hypertech III, what do you guys think I should expect in times , I,m hoping the Gto,s I should beat ,but should I let it shift out by itself in D or should I go at it like a manual and start in 1, I set shift points per hypertech and I have shift firm ness at 50% but will go to 75% at the track but don,t know how it will be, what have you A4 guys done any help or input would be great ,I hate trial and error 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,482
Likes: 1
From: Living the Taxation Dream Indiana
Originally Posted by speedydog5
gonna be going to the track soon with some friends with GTo,s I have a 99 A4 vert, I have a zip tie mod ,160 stat and hypertech III, what do you guys think I should expect in times , I,m hoping the Gto,s I should beat ,but should I let it shift out by itself in D or should I go at it like a manual and start in 1, I set shift points per hypertech and I have shift firm ness at 50% but will go to 75% at the track but don,t know how it will be, what have you A4 guys done any help or input would be great ,I hate trial and error
You should be fine against the GTO's as long as they are stock. Depending on the track, altitude, temp, etc... with the 2.73's expect mid 13's, with the 3.15's expect low 13's. Put it in 3 and bring it up against the brake to about 1200rpms or so....then floor it on the last yellow. Let it shift on it's own. If you are on run-flats, work your launch technique till you are barely spinning comming off the line. You should be to get anywhere between 1.9x-2.2x on your 60 ft times. Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
a) place gear selector in 3 (as mentioned earlier)
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; May 24, 2005 at 11:06 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Sunshine State
Originally Posted by speedydog5
gonna be going to the track soon with some friends with GTo,s I have a 99 A4 vert, I have a zip tie mod ,160 stat and hypertech III, what do you guys think I should expect in times , I,m hoping the Gto,s I should beat ,but should I let it shift out by itself in D or should I go at it like a manual and start in 1, I set shift points per hypertech and I have shift firm ness at 50% but will go to 75% at the track but don,t know how it will be, what have you A4 guys done any help or input would be great ,I hate trial and error
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,027
Likes: 6
From: Shiloh Ohio
For your hypertech if you have a 3.15 rear end, my best times were +2 mph on the first to second and second to third shifts, and increase shift firmness to 100%. Set your rev limiter at 6600 rpms or you may bounce of the limiter. The hypertech gave me a little over two tenths over stock. Make sure you chose power programming also. Most don't recommend warming up run flats but if I did not I would spin. So its technique only but I warm them up with a mild burn out. I also have better luck with no power brake on the launch. Just stomp it on the third yellow. Good luck, I would try several techniques and see which works best for your setup.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
a) place gear selector in 3 (as mentioned earlier)
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
I actually got my best times when I manually shifted. I didn't look at the tach .... I just shifted when I felt the torque dropping.
DH
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,903
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From: I finished a Marathon, did you? Michigan
CI 6-7, 9-10 Veteran
I have just kept it in drive with comp driving on. Foot on the gas rpms at about 1800 foot on brake, 3rd yellow foot off of brake. Hold on! Stock my best time was 13.14 after headers,exhaust,blackwing and a tune 12.79.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by JeremyMSG
You should be fine against the GTO's as long as they are stock. Depending on the track, altitude, temp, etc... with the 2.73's expect mid 13's, with the 3.15's expect low 13's. Put it in 3 and bring it up against the brake to about 1200rpms or so....then floor it on the last yellow. Let it shift on it's own. If you are on run-flats, work your launch technique till you are barely spinning comming off the line. You should be to get anywhere between 1.9x-2.2x on your 60 ft times. Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
the PCM loads slightly different WOT shift points with the gear selector in "3" (or so I've read). It winds out a couple hunderd RPM higher before shifting. Most noticeable with the 2-3 shift.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,078
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
a) place gear selector in 3 (as mentioned earlier)
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
b) turn traction control off (or select the Comp Driving mode if equipped)
c) drive around (not through) the burn-out water; with a stock A4 you won't need to warm up the tires.
d) pull up to the first staging light activation and stop; apply firm pressure on brake pedal. Raise RPM to 1300 and slightly release some of the brake pressure & creep forward to the second staging light. Reapply firm brake pedal pressure. Keep RPM's up to 1300; but with plenty of brake pedal pressure to keep car from creeping any further forward (you can practice this on the street a few times before your first run at the track).
e) on third yellow, release brake and push the accelerator down to the floor - at a rate of 1 second (in other words, don't mash the pedal down instantly... you may get too much tire spin).
f) collect your money from any stock 2004 GTO you would of just beaten.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Originally Posted by 2000BSME
I've found on MY car that comp mode DOESN'T allow for good launches. Torque managment bogs the engine down in COMP mode. ONLY with active handling OFF can I get good tire roasting launches. This is only with MY car and the current tune, yours may be different. I have noticed that sometimes the Predator tune will appear as though it took, but really it didn't, and I need to reload the program on occasion. I don't know if this is the case, but it has been my past experience.
I think your problem is due to pre 2001 Active Handling software. Yes, even in Comp mode there was still some intrusion of the traction control system... and this was corrected in the 2001 major software rewrite. No doubt you're seeing an improvement, but technically it's not related to any change in the "torque management" system.
It's great that you brought this up, as many forget (as I just did) about the intrusion of traction control on the pre 2001 Active Handling system, even when in the Competitive Driving mode.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; May 25, 2005 at 03:34 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Sunshine State
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
I'm glad you found a workable combination. But there is no data to support that Torque Management can be disabled - at any time - by the driver.
I think your problem is due to pre 2001 Active Handling software. Yes, even in Comp mode there was still some intrusion of the traction control system... and this was corrected in the 2001 major software rewrite. No doubt you're seeing an improvement, but technically it's not related to any change in the "torque management" system.
It's great that you brought this up, as many forget (as I just did) about the intrusion of traction control on the pre 2001 Active Handling system, even when in the Competitive Driving mode.
I think your problem is due to pre 2001 Active Handling software. Yes, even in Comp mode there was still some intrusion of the traction control system... and this was corrected in the 2001 major software rewrite. No doubt you're seeing an improvement, but technically it's not related to any change in the "torque management" system.
It's great that you brought this up, as many forget (as I just did) about the intrusion of traction control on the pre 2001 Active Handling system, even when in the Competitive Driving mode.
I don't know what the heck you're talking about but my torque management was removed by my tuner. I know of no other way to do it.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
Originally Posted by Korreck
I don't know what the heck you're talking about but my torque management was removed by my tuner. I know of no other way to do it.yep; a misleading sentence on my part - and has been corrected.
thanks for pointing that out.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Sunshine State
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
I was responding to a post where someone said they disabled "torque management" by turning off AH & TC.
yep; a misleading sentence on my part - and has been corrected.
thanks for pointing that out.
yep; a misleading sentence on my part - and has been corrected.
thanks for pointing that out.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 418
Likes: 1
From: Chicago, Midway IL
Originally Posted by shurite44
For your hypertech if you have a 3.15 rear end, my best times were +2 mph on the first to second and second to third shifts, and increase shift firmness to 100%. Set your rev limiter at 6600 rpms or you may bounce of the limiter. The hypertech gave me a little over two tenths over stock. Make sure you chose power programming also. Most don't recommend warming up run flats but if I did not I would spin. So its technique only but I warm them up with a mild burn out. I also have better luck with no power brake on the launch. Just stomp it on the third yellow. Good luck, I would try several techniques and see which works best for your setup.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco CA
It's been a long time since I used mine but as I recall, you can choose custom and make the changes you want to make and then choose to install their own power progamming if you want.
In other words it's not an either one or the other but rather you can install one or the other or both. At least that's how I remember it but I would wait for confirmation from someone else
In other words it's not an either one or the other but rather you can install one or the other or both. At least that's how I remember it but I would wait for confirmation from someone else