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Overheating problem!!!!

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Old May 28, 2005 | 02:36 PM
  #21  
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I think this is good information, what does SAE say? In most automotive circles, Dexcool is crapola! If you need more proof beyond a train hitting you, read:

http://www.classlaw.info/page10.html

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...m_dexcool.html

Last edited by 2KREDVert; May 28, 2005 at 02:42 PM.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #22  
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Also see:

http://abclocal.go.com/kgo/news/7oys...s_dexcool.html

It's gotten so bad that Dexcool has had to remove their long life claims. This stuff is terrible but GM is too darned stubborn to admit it. They know that if they admitted it, it would open up thousands of lawsuits. No matter, they are headed that way anyhow. Be smart dump it now and go with Prestone's new formula. Mixes with all other types.

Last edited by 2KREDVert; May 29, 2005 at 07:29 PM.
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Old May 29, 2005 | 01:06 PM
  #23  
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I bought mine several months ago ...it was a pleasure to deal... a pleasure to be treated well as a customer and they were knowlegeable to a fault ...the product was AS ADVERTISED easy to install and it works great .....
John Johnson
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Old May 29, 2005 | 07:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by golfman2008
I bought mine several months ago ...it was a pleasure to deal... a pleasure to be treated well as a customer and they were knowlegeable to a fault ...the product was AS ADVERTISED easy to install and it works great .....
John Johnson
What did you buy?????
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Old May 29, 2005 | 07:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 2KREDVert
What did you buy?????
This is a testimonial from one of our customers about a new product
called the Big Mouth Performance Air Dam !!

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Old May 29, 2005 | 08:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
First of all, looking up from the air dam would reveal debris stuck in the Air conditioner condenser Not the radiator....
The Condenser and the radiator are in tandem, much debris gets caught in the obvious places at the top of the air dam duct and stuck to the condenser...
Much of this debris get sucked through the condenser fins and winds up
blocking the actual radiator. The way to clean this is to remove the upper radiator shroud which holds the condenser and radiator.
Many people remove the debris that is stuck to the AC condenser because, that's what so many ill informed people suggest, and point to it as if it was the radiator, just as in the information given here in the above thread.
The real culprit is found behind the Condenser, the actual radiator and this needs to be addressed. Cleaning the condenser will help the AC unit work more efficiently and also help to pass cool air to the radiator found behind it... but with a clogged radiator, all the cold air in the world will not help with heat exchange. So for those "Experts" out there, When referring to looking up the air dam and cleaning the "RADIATOR", your information is wrong, and mis leading as to the root cause of high coolant and oil temps...
The correct fix is to clean both the condenser and the radiator,hidden from view and found two inches behind the condenser, the true radiator... not the one all the wannabes refer too...
Every year I clean out my radiator, the one behind the condenser and get a cup of grass, sand, bug guts, leaves and paper that made it's way through the condenser fins.
This is how it should be done.
This is right on info, I can say from experiance. I had been noticing that my temp was little high compared to my C5. So, while installing my Vararam intake, (had shroud over rad/cond off) I noticed the condenser was full of seeds, chaf and animal hair. I could not blow it out because it was imbeded. Then, I pulled the cond away from rad to better blow it out and radiator was worse. I would never have known rad was so plugged without seeing it. I ended up blowing and using long precission twezzers to get what I could out. Temp came down 10/15*. I still need to pull rad out all the way to really clean it correctly.

Another way I got temp down was to reprogram on/off temp settings for both fans. Normally, 92/94* cruising and 195/200 under worst case traffic/temp (last test 88* day in heavy traffic).
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Old May 29, 2005 | 08:14 PM
  #27  
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Why go through all that debris problems when you can eliminate most of the debris and water contamination , plus increase the cold static pressure all in one ? and reduce component operating temperatures while the vehicle is in motion.

Last edited by golfman2008; May 29, 2005 at 09:09 PM.
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Old May 29, 2005 | 09:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by golfman2008
Why go through all that debris problems when you can eliminate most of the debris and water contamination , plus increase the cold static pressure all in one ? and reduce component operating temperatures while the vehicle is in motion.

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Old May 29, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #29  
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Default Common Sense

Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
First of all, looking up from the air dam would reveal debris stuck in the Air conditioner condenser Not the radiator....
The Condenser and the radiator are in tandem, much debris gets caught in the obvious places at the top of the air dam duct and stuck to the condenser...
Much of this debris get sucked through the condenser fins and winds up
blocking the actual radiator. The way to clean this is to remove the upper radiator shroud which holds the condenser and radiator.
Many people remove the debris that is stuck to the AC condenser because, that's what so many ill informed people suggest, and point to it as if it was the radiator, just as in the information given here in the above thread.
The real culprit is found behind the Condenser, the actual radiator and this needs to be addressed. Cleaning the condenser will help the AC unit work more efficiently and also help to pass cool air to the radiator found behind it... but with a clogged radiator, all the cold air in the world will not help with heat exchange. So for those "Experts" out there, When referring to looking up the air dam and cleaning the "RADIATOR", your information is wrong, and mis leading as to the root cause of high coolant and oil temps...
The correct fix is to clean both the condenser and the radiator,hidden from view and found two inches behind the condenser, the true radiator... not the one all the wannabes refer too...
Every year I clean out my radiator, the one behind the condenser and get a cup of grass, sand, bug guts, leaves and paper that made it's way through the condenser fins.
This is how it should be done.
"Ill-informed,wrong,misleading,wannabes"? For cristsakes it sounds like common sense to me me.Crawl under the car,look and see if there's even any crap in there before you start disassembling the car!
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Old May 30, 2005 | 01:51 AM
  #30  
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Default Overheating Problem - 2001

OK - Here's my story . . . a rather long one . . .

Driving home last Tuesday - 40 mi commute . . . 106 degrees outside - usual crap - Phoenix traffic just before 5:00 p.m. - and suddenly everyone is going 10 mph . . .

This went on for about 5 miles. I'm dancing between 1st and 2nd . . . trying to find a gear where the idle speed will keep me in synch with the flow - cuz the ball of my left foot is already starting to hurt from clutch duty!

The A/C is keeping me cool, so no prob . . .

All of a sudden I see this alert on the Heads up telling me to check gauges . . . I look down and see TEMP is at 260!!!

Now, I had noticed it running a little hot at times last year (220-230) but never PEGGED IT before!

I immediately shut down the A/C and took an off-ramp so as to get up some speed and get some airflow over that hot radiator!

Ran her up to about 60 and put her in neutral and let the ram-air do it's job while coasting . . . about half a mile

Temp was down to 230 or so when I pulled into a convenience store parking lot . . .

Shut her down and went inside to buy some distilled water thinking that I must have blown something, and would need water to get her home.

But . . . popped hood, and saw overflow tank was about half full . . . totally normal.

Fired her up and noticed fans were running . . . everything looked fine.

Took some interesting side-routes to another freeway to home. I noticed that whenever my speed dropped below about 50 mph, temp would start climbing . . . so I concentrated on keeping groundspeed up.

Managed to get her down to 220 over several miles where traffic was moving . . . then the inevitable . . . another slowdown.

Sweating it out, I creeped along with everyone else - now of course having the temp displayed on the DIC and watching it constantly.

Temp slowly climbed back up to about 240 before congestion cleared somewhat and we started moving again. Got her home and shut her down.

Started in on researching right away . . . I didn't have any major problems before . . . but this was one of the hottest days so far this year, and I (knew there were plenty more to come (it can hit 120 degrees here.)

Went from blown head gasket to water pump failure to hose collapse to thermostat failure, and just about everything in-between. Finally read a few posts about cleaning condenser/radiator - seems the C5 is a big vacuum cleaner on the highway, and I know from experience that Phoenix provides plenty of debris for motorists.

Resolved to give that a try the next morning.

Early Wednesday, pulled her out in the driveway, and pulled shrouds and covers to expose them. Got my small (but effective) 1400 psi pressure washer out and spent the next two hours THOROUGHLY cleaning both condenser and radiator, being careful not to direct the high-pressure spray at an angle that would bend the tiny intricate fins.

I COULD NOT believe what came out of there . . . napkins . . . paper towels . . . plastic baggies . . . bugs . . . dirt . . . when blasting the cores, the liquid that came out from the opposite side looked like chocolate milk - literally!

Put her all back together . . . and what a difference!

It sits rock-solid at 198-201 degrees sitting at the local burger stand, or cruising down the freeway now . . . (if the A/C is on)

With A/C off, it will creep up into the 220's before the fans kick in, but then immediately starts dropping - like it should . . .

So, moral of the story - sometimes it is the little things . . . not the big expensive ones.

I feel I got lucky here - was expecting wallet to really hurt before this one was fixed!

I hope the next guy with this problem sees this post before doing a bunch of drastic fixes . . .
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Old May 30, 2005 | 04:01 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sullivan-s
OK - Here's my story . . . a rather long one . . .

Driving home last Tuesday - 40 mi commute . . . 106 degrees outside - usual crap - Phoenix traffic just before 5:00 p.m. - and suddenly everyone is going 10 mph . . .

This went on for about 5 miles. I'm dancing between 1st and 2nd . . . trying to find a gear where the idle speed will keep me in synch with the flow - cuz the ball of my left foot is already starting to hurt from clutch duty!

The A/C is keeping me cool, so no prob . . .

All of a sudden I see this alert on the Heads up telling me to check gauges . . . I look down and see TEMP is at 260!!!

Now, I had noticed it running a little hot at times last year (220-230) but never PEGGED IT before!

I immediately shut down the A/C and took an off-ramp so as to get up some speed and get some airflow over that hot radiator!

Ran her up to about 60 and put her in neutral and let the ram-air do it's job while coasting . . . about half a mile

Temp was down to 230 or so when I pulled into a convenience store parking lot . . .

Shut her down and went inside to buy some distilled water thinking that I must have blown something, and would need water to get her home.

But . . . popped hood, and saw overflow tank was about half full . . . totally normal.

Fired her up and noticed fans were running . . . everything looked fine.

Took some interesting side-routes to another freeway to home. I noticed that whenever my speed dropped below about 50 mph, temp would start climbing . . . so I concentrated on keeping groundspeed up.

Managed to get her down to 220 over several miles where traffic was moving . . . then the inevitable . . . another slowdown.

Sweating it out, I creeped along with everyone else - now of course having the temp displayed on the DIC and watching it constantly.

Temp slowly climbed back up to about 240 before congestion cleared somewhat and we started moving again. Got her home and shut her down.

Started in on researching right away . . . I didn't have any major problems before . . . but this was one of the hottest days so far this year, and I (knew there were plenty more to come (it can hit 120 degrees here.)

Went from blown head gasket to water pump failure to hose collapse to thermostat failure, and just about everything in-between. Finally read a few posts about cleaning condenser/radiator - seems the C5 is a big vacuum cleaner on the highway, and I know from experience that Phoenix provides plenty of debris for motorists.

Resolved to give that a try the next morning.

Early Wednesday, pulled her out in the driveway, and pulled shrouds and covers to expose them. Got my small (but effective) 1400 psi pressure washer out and spent the next two hours THOROUGHLY cleaning both condenser and radiator, being careful not to direct the high-pressure spray at an angle that would bend the tiny intricate fins.

I COULD NOT believe what came out of there . . . napkins . . . paper towels . . . plastic baggies . . . bugs . . . dirt . . . when blasting the cores, the liquid that came out from the opposite side looked like chocolate milk - literally!

Put her all back together . . . and what a difference!

It sits rock-solid at 198-201 degrees sitting at the local burger stand, or cruising down the freeway now . . . (if the A/C is on)

With A/C off, it will creep up into the 220's before the fans kick in, but then immediately starts dropping - like it should . . .

So, moral of the story - sometimes it is the little things . . . not the big expensive ones.

I feel I got lucky here - was expecting wallet to really hurt before this one was fixed!

I hope the next guy with this problem sees this post before doing a bunch of drastic fixes . . .

cool and informative story, i live in the same hellhole you and have fought the same traffic recently at 112 degrees and temps went up, will try your solution and see what happens, was going to go with the ron davis radiator, prolly still gonna do it, cause summer is gonna be a b@#!h this year,and i have some major hot mods goin on, new ls6 heads,cam, and everything else imaginable, and i want to run cool with no problems this year, been on the side of the road already this year, and had to be towed thanks again.
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Old May 30, 2005 | 08:46 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 2KREDVert
Have you done a drain/purge/refill with DexCool yet? How many miles on the car if you haven't. Older cars tend to run hotter, but yours is within the acceptible range. ~Bruce
Everybody I have spoken to says to get rid of the DexCool and go back to the green stuff as soon as possible. My machinist showed me a cylinder head that was totally blocked by the crystals formed by Dex Cool. I have had master mechanics, auto machinists and most recently a radiator guy all tell me that Dex Cool is major trouble. I am going to the latest Prestone which is ethelene glycol but also mixes with all other types of anti-freeze.[/QUOTE]

I was always under the impression that by mixing up Dex-Cool with other types you will get big problems. If a car originally ran Dex-Cool and then you mix in other types or change types, it would gel up inside the coolant chambers. Could someone provide concrete information about this??
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Old May 30, 2005 | 10:15 AM
  #33  
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Default Front of Radiator

I check the front of the radiator every Oil Change
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Old May 30, 2005 | 02:51 PM
  #34  
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I was always under the impression that by mixing up Dex-Cool with other types you will get big problems. If a car originally ran Dex-Cool and then you mix in other types or change types, it would gel up inside the coolant chambers. Could someone provide concrete information about this??
Quote

The latest formulas available mix with all other types of antifreeze. Check out the new Prestone yellow bottle. It will tell you that it mixes with ALL other types. I got rid of Dexcool. Going with the new Prestone (Yellow Bottle) mix. Too many lawsuits against Dexcool and too many professionals telling me that it is destructive.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:54 PM
  #35  
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Default Same here

Originally Posted by ditty22
Im having a problem with my 99 overheating to like 230 plus oil temp and it will also happen on the freeway when im just driving it will get up to 225 plus wtf. Last year i could hot lap teh car at the track and it would only reach 220ish but this spring its making me mad as hell. thanks ditti
I've got a 99 A4 and it too hits that range. And on HOT days it gets to like 240. I went to Chevy last week and they said its in the normal range for a C5. What concerns me is that they said it's acceptable for it to get as high as 270! That seems way to high... but maybe Chevy knows best....

BTW, I have a 160 degree and a ported and polished oil pump. My car did run a lot hotter before the TRASH in my radiator was cleaned out (had to replace a fan motor too because of such).

After reading this post.. I don't feel so bad. Was going to look into getting an oil cooler.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by starchedup
What concerns me is that they said it's acceptable for it to get as high as 270! That seems way to high... but maybe Chevy knows best.....
Is someone over at that dealership smoking CRACK??? Thats WAY TOO HIGH!!!

VR
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by vetterdstr
Is someone over at that dealership smoking CRACK??? Thats WAY TOO HIGH!!!

VR
yes
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 05:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Cpe04
"Ill-informed,wrong,misleading,wannabes"? For cristsakes it sounds like common sense to me me.Crawl under the car,look and see if there's even any crap in there before you start disassembling the car!
Obviously, you didn't read the info clearly and don't know about E-T or you wouldn't have made such a comment. By cleaning what you can reach from under the car, you only solve part of the problem. E-T is right about wannabes opinions, they're like A-holes, everybody has one and most stink. I never read so much crap as when a radiator, temperature, thermostat thread is started.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:07 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by byte_me
I agree with the above statement...230 is not too hot for the oil...My 97 A4 coolant temps were on the rise sometimes in the high 230's like 238'ish on the highway with no debris in the shroud to be found...I put in a 180 degree T-Stat and now I stay below 200 degrees (196) normal driving and get an occasional 205/210 in stopped traffic but it goes right back down when the car moves...

If you have no H20 leaks on the pump, and no dead birds stuck in the radiator shroud...change the T-Stat...it made a world of difference in my case.
why do I get the exact opposite. when I'm driving my temps climb to 220 ish then when I stop in traffic temp goes down. could this be my thermostat also?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by The Big Guy
Wrong ! Stick with DEX - COOL. Someone has given you TOTALLY erronous information regarding the Coolant. Replace with Dex - Cool and distilled water. Not drinking water or spring water, but distilled. Believe me I know the difference and the ensueing definite problems encountered. Good Luck !

First, 230 degree oil temp is not too high. It's still within the optimal operating range.

Second, I bought the pre-mixed Dex-Cool at WalMart and did not have to worry what type of water to use. Peace of mind.

Last edited by atz06; Jun 2, 2005 at 02:19 PM.
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