Need Advice On Torque Converter
I now realize that I screwed up by keeping the stock torque converter. I was hoping that the 3.42 gears, headers, and tune would get me in the 12's- close but no cigar.
In doing research, I am bewildered by the choices for performance TC's. I am looking for a recommendation from the Forum. I realize this request has appeared many times before, but please bear with me.
My car is primarily a show/cruise vehicle with occasional trips to the strip, so I am looking for a TC that will be the best compromise favoring street manners over all-out performance. I do not plan any internal engine mods and plan to stay with the stock rev limit of 6200. I want something compatible with my 3.42 gears. I want to get into the easy 12's but I don't want to blow up the stock trans and/or output shafts (yet).
I am thinking about a "mild" stall of 2400-2600. So far I have the Pro-Torque TC as my #1 choice. I am sure there are "hard core" guys out there that will tell me I am crazy and I should get a Yank 3800 but that is not what I am looking for. No flames, please.
Forum input is requested. Thanks in advance.
If for some reason you want more send it to them for a re-stall
I have a 3800 with 3.73
Remember at 30 in 3rd it locks up and at 39 in 4th Even my 3800 is ok on the street .
No if you want to autocross or road race you might want to check with those guys.
I believe they are running 2800 vigilante's
My 60ft ' s were 1.67 with et streets with the vig and 3.73
Coincidentally, ....I believe that the 12.53 came against you when your car still had the 2.73s

I have run 12.33 with my Pro Torque 2400-2600. It is plenty of converter for what you are trying to do. The PT 2400 used to be a favorite around here untill people started needing more stall for H/C applications and some needed more get up from a roll than the low stalling PT 2400 will give.
Again with the Pro Torque 2400 but this time using the Vararam. A Black 04 SVT Cobra was granted the privilage of seeing my tail lights during this run. I red lighted but so what. He would have still taken a bad beating
:
My car drives like stock. I do not street race so there is no need for me to get into it from a roll. The PT 2400 has an STR of 2.3 and hits very hard off the line. I average 1.8 sec 60' times but a 1.7 is in it. If you only occasionally drag race, IMO it is ideal. Do a tranny cooler as well however.
NJVette guy made it to 12.20 with his. He was running 3.42 gears, PT 2400, Nitto drag radials, and the usual PCM tuning and bolt ons......... And no long tube headers. In fact he ran a few 12.2xs that day with 1.6sec to 1.7sec 60 ft times.
Nuff said, and good luck
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; May 28, 2005 at 12:16 PM.


I have run 12.33 with my Pro Torque 2400-2600. It is plenty of converter for what you are trying to do. The PT 2400 used to be a favorite around here untill people started needing more stall for H/C applications and some needed more get up from a roll than the low stalling PT 2400 will give.

But its all just "pocket change" for a Wall Street guy like yourself, I'm sure Al.
However, with your stated goal in mind, I would suggest a Vigilante 2800 lockup style covertor. Good street performance, with a little upgrade for the track too, and seems to meet your requirements!

Good luck with whatever you may choose!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
With the 3.42 gears go with the SS3200 or the Yank 2800. My 2800 feels completely stock on part throttle roll aways, but gives a good boost under full throttle. I could have easily gone with a bigger stall and still done well for street/strip use, but I am happy with this one since it still allows for the occasional road race
Last edited by SkankZilla; May 29, 2005 at 01:21 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention
1. Pro-torque "Low Stall" 2400-2600
2. Yank Stealth 2800
3. Precision Industries Vigilante 2600
Some additional input to make the final decision would be helpful.
1. PT: I know EB20003 personally and his car runs great. With the PT he runs mid-low 12's with a setup similar to mine. I would be thrilled to run his times. He is a very knowledgeable C5 guy and I greatly trust his advice. The PT website is impressive- there is none of the "bash the other guy" stuff. However, the PT does not seem to be a Forum Favorite.
2. Yank: This seems to be the forum choice. However, much of their website is devoted to "bashing the other guy"- showing pictures of the "crappy" (unnamed) competitor product; stating the competitors make false claims, etc.; saying they dyno their products on the "General Motors dyno" etc. This kind of marketing approach always makes me nervous with any product...
2. Vigilante: Good Forum support, but information on the website is clearly inferior to PT and Yank.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by birch64; May 30, 2005 at 09:11 PM.
Last edited by sams96; May 29, 2005 at 10:59 AM.
I'm not trying to discredit any manufacture in any way because i've only purchased and installed one converter. I'm only posting my experience in searching for my converter.
A few have recommended converters with a higher than 2400 2600 stall. My question would be: "If he can get what he wants performance wise with a low stall, then why go with a high stall?"
The Pro Torque's 2.3 stall torque ratio is what is really going to get you out of the hole. Like I said, unless you are into stomping it from a 60 MPH roll, it should be fine for your needs. But if you like to get into it from a highway roll, or if you are going heads and cam, then look elsewhere.
You know as well as I do, Western PA is crawling with State Troopers, and the curves and hills give them plenty of hiding places. Stomping a Red Vette, with headers and stingers on it, from a 60 MPH roll is just asking for them to lift your license. Something to think about. Its just not practical around here.
FWIW I bought my Pro Torque from a previous owner, brand new in the box. He had intended to put the PT2400 in his own car as he was going to 3.73s. But he was also planning heads and cam, which he has now, and would need a higher stall for that application.
He sold me the Pro Torque PTC-11700C5LS 2400 stall for $550.00. It had come from Mallet Racing and was just waiting for install.
What you will find is that the Pro Torqe, like the Vig is reasonably priced. Some of the Yanks people are recommending to you, well be sure that you price them
The PT 2400 he told me was used by Mallet Racing in some of their packages:
http://www.mallettcars.com/catalog-p...artID=71029999
West Coast Corvettes as a package.
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/sho...ail.cfm?id=467
Incidently the claims in the WCC information are EXACTLY what I saw. 12.5s.
The VetteDoctors: http://www.thevettedoctors.com/htdocs/c5-rx.shtml
I learned a little about torque converters and how the stall is actually effected by to amount of HP/TQ the car has. This is why they say 2400-2600 stall. When my tranny went down, it was flushed, the torque converter was flushed and the tranny rebuilt. The folks at Gillece actually tested the stall of the converter during this rebuilding and at 350 HP it was 2400, at 400hp it was 2600.
You can call the folks at Pro Torque, and George Jr will give you further advice if you ask him. And you are right, they spend little to no time bashing other people's products on their site, but concentrate on their own.
While a transmission cooler is not essential with this converter, I would recommend one. It is cheap insurance.
You already have the headers, drag radials, stingers, programming, gears. The stall and a well concealed/removable switch line lock are all you need to get into the mid and possibly even low 12s.
I recommended a line lock, because that new TC is going to hit harder off the line than your stock converter is now, and you won't get good traction if your tires are not adequately heated with all that torque getting transferred to the wheels. This of course would defeat the purpose of what you are doing anyway and not help your 60' times. Avoid spin at all costs.
I wouldn't worry so much about busted output shafts in your automatic as I would with a stick.
You can do a burnout without a line lock of course, but I saw a post a little while back where a guy had developed some drivetrain problems, he felt were due to his using his foot brake for burnouts.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; Jun 4, 2005 at 07:40 PM.
Before swap 3.15's, stock conv, Yokohama run-craps 2.20 60' (no tire spin)
After swap 3.42's, S2800, same tires 1.91 60' (slight tire spin)
I'm sure i could get my 60' times lower but my local 1/8th track won't let me run anymore without a rollbar (convertibles can't break 8.49), and I'm not planning to put a bar in either. (I just wanna test how my money is working kinda thing).
Last edited by SkankZilla; May 29, 2005 at 12:42 PM.
Before swap 3.15's, stock conv, Yokohama run-craps 2.20 60' (no tire spin)
After swap 3.42's, S2800, same tires 1.91 60' (slight tire spin)


















