Fluidamper has them for :
LS1/LS6 corvette 10% u/d. im tired of waiting for the asp pushed back till mid july now.price is around $350 but might be comparable in power gain since it actually reduces vibrations and 10% u/d accessories.any feed back?

 

This is what I and many other well known CF members are running

HERE

for an 8 rib this unit runs about $500 for our cars... maybe 6 ribs are less??

VR

 

thanks but im looking for fluidamper feedback only.the ati is $100 more than the fluidamper.

 

You should spend the $100 and get the ATI. It's cheap insurance, and an outstanding unit. Don't take a chance, it's not worth it.

 

does the ati have to be pinned or use as is?

 

Mine is pinned...

ALSO... from the ATI website this info....

"Our dampers are used on performance and endurance engines worldwide. Every Nextel Cup, Busch, and Craftsman Truck engine, and every ASA LSI Vortec engine. GM's Vortec off-road 6 cylinders, the Katech World Challenge C5R Corvettes, and Viper V10 engines. They all use the ATI Super Damper because it has proven to be the most effective damper in the world, thanks to it's versitily and tunabilty."

NOW if a fluiddamper is better... why would each of these race teams be running an ATI super damper?

VR

 

dont know but fluidamper is no slotch either

 

ok.. best of luck to you in your mod decisions.

VR

 

Pin the ATI and be done. Nothing to worry about. Go cheap over $100, and I bet you wont post here when the motor blows. Might not happen, but why risk it for $100. Time for this to stop already.

 

Fluidamper just isn't proven on the LS series. It just came out. In the older GM small blocks they lead in this area. I've had a few, and seen plenty of others with them. I am also interested in the Fluidamper, due to previous experience with them, not price. Unfortunately they waited to long to bring them out, why I don't know, but it hurt them as far as GM products are concerned. Now, if they had come out around the same time as ATI, or ASP, I'm sure you would see others running them. Just not the way it is though.
They only came out with LT1 models a couple of years ago. ATI isn't bad, and with Katech running them it says alot.
I will be trying one soon with a new cam in the Z06. Back to back tests with an ATI would be great, but don't know of any. I can tell you I won't be that test mule. Only plan on dropping the steering once on this install.

 

yes ATI is a good product.Fluidamper is new on the scene and is unproven by the LS1 gang.ATI is rebuildable and Fluidamper is maintanence free and $100 less.

 

ATI here on my F-body LS1, didn't pin it and it hasn't slipped at all.

When I called their tech line to ask about the need for pinning, the guy said pinning is only mandated when using it in a supercharged application...the blower creates enough extra resistance that slippage is a risk.

I've put 8 road course track event days on mine and I love it...Indy, Memphis, and a bunch of Pocono events plus the drive there and back with no issues at all.

 

I thought Fluidampr covers all rpm levels, and ATI 6000 plus rpm ? iirc??

 

Actually, Fluidampr came out with their LT1 unit in the late 90s. I bought one around 2000-2001, and had it on my '96 Z-28 for several years.


I've been researching as much as I can, because I'm considering replacing the OE damper on my car. Problem is, everywhere you look, everyone has a differing opinion on which unit is "best". I don't like the idea that there's a potential "time bomb" on the front of my engine, but on the other hand, how many LS engined cars/trucks are out there, that haven't had their damper seperate?

And secondly, the idea that NOBODY'S installation instructions say anything about locating the damper in a specific orientation during installation, has me totally confused. For those that have "pinned" their dampers, consider that ATI sells a kit that allows you to randomly drill the crank snout, install a dowel pin, yet where you put the pin, can later inhibit your ability to remove the oil pump/timing gears, should that become necessary.....

And, of course, this is all secondary, to the fact that you have to do some MAJOR disassembly of the car, just to be able to get at the damper in the first place.

There's one of those "mambo themed" songs with the lyric, "The more I see, the less I know". To me, that seems to fit the LS harmonic damper topic.

 

OP: so Powerbond is off the table for you?

 

You will be hard pressed to find any of the professional race teams in NASCAR with a Fluidamper. Most all run ATI. We had trouble with Fluidamper in the mid 90's breaking cranks after being in service for a while.

Don't get me wrong, I think silicone gel is a wonderful thing, when displayed behind a tiny little bikini . I just don't want it in my damper.

GM also rebadges the ATI and sells it in their performance parts line.

Fluidampers are usually heavier than the stock damper.
ATI is generally a little lighter.

The LS damper is neutral balanced, meaning it does not need to be indexed, so the bean counters at GM in their infinite wisdom decided to save some money during manufacturing and not machine the crank or damper with index slots.

I haven't had any trouble with disassembly after pinning. Just a little Emory cloth to knock down any burs and everything slides right off.

 

I thought the kit pinned the damper in line with the timing chain key slot so those parts would slide off right over the pin but it doesn't appear you do. Well, you likely could line them up.

It always seems to me that there's lots of people who will tell you Fluidampers are nothing special. I'd think you might as well use a Powerbond and same more money vs using a Fluidamper.

 

From what I've seen, during my "research', is that ATI makes two different kits to pin the crank. One works by simply slipping the drilling fixture over the crank snout, and drilling away. You could probably try to line up the pin with the crank key that drives the oil pump, but it might be difficult to get your head in between the front crossmember and the engine, to look inside, and see where the key is.

ATI's second drilling fixture actually indexes off the crank key, but in order to use it, you have to pull the water pump, front cover, and oil pump. You then slide the fixture onto the crank snout, engaging the key, then drill away. A better method of locating, but of course, a lot more work.

I'm sort of understanding the "neutral balance" of the damper, so the location isn't critical, but ATI, as well as others, put timing marks on the OD of the damper. If they're there, why not install the unit accurately?

With respect to the Fluidampr VS. Powerbond discussion, I believe that the PB is pretty much an OE damper assembled with better glue. In other words, it's also a 2 piece design, as is the OE part, so it's possible it, too, could come apart. The Fluidampr is a welded together unit, so in a sense, it's a 1 piece unit.

 

I think the PowerBonds do not use "glue" for rubber retention. They inject their proprietary molten rubber material into the cavity under heat and pressure, with the inner and outer rings held in a jig to maintain correct dimensional tolerances, until the material cures.
I think OE units have their rubber material physically pressed into the cavity (possibly assisted by adhesives) beween the two rings.

The PBs also use a retainer ring to prevent pulley-walk in case of separation and use steel instead of iron as well.

Excellent value for the money spent.

 

Is Powerforce the same as Powerbond ??