A/C Help Needed again....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
A/C Help Needed again....
Ok, my A/C was blowing cool but not hot and it was cooler on the passenger side than the driver side...
SOme peeps said to reset the Dampers and also said my Freon was low..
I reset the dampers and that did nothing..
Then bought a can of R134a Freon with a pressure gauge built in..
Hooked it up to the low side and the pressure read dead in the middle of the Normal pressure.. Up to 45psi is Normal.. So I said screw it and added more freon till it hit right on the 45psi mark..
Still NOTHING... The temps felt the same inside the car, Cool not COLD like it did when it was new.....
I noticed a few other things.. The Low Pressure Metal hose was Cool to the touch but not the usual Freezing cold and almost frosted... And... It looked like the compressor was running the entire time... or at least I could not hear it switching on and off. I did hear the fans switching on and off as if the compressor was doing the same..
What could be the problem... I am really concerned that the low pressure line is NOT That cold.. I have never owned a car that the low pressure line was not absolutely FREEZING....
Maybe the pressure switch is bad and it's not letting the compressor really pump up before shutting off..
SOme peeps said to reset the Dampers and also said my Freon was low..
I reset the dampers and that did nothing..
Then bought a can of R134a Freon with a pressure gauge built in..
Hooked it up to the low side and the pressure read dead in the middle of the Normal pressure.. Up to 45psi is Normal.. So I said screw it and added more freon till it hit right on the 45psi mark..
Still NOTHING... The temps felt the same inside the car, Cool not COLD like it did when it was new.....
I noticed a few other things.. The Low Pressure Metal hose was Cool to the touch but not the usual Freezing cold and almost frosted... And... It looked like the compressor was running the entire time... or at least I could not hear it switching on and off. I did hear the fans switching on and off as if the compressor was doing the same..
What could be the problem... I am really concerned that the low pressure line is NOT That cold.. I have never owned a car that the low pressure line was not absolutely FREEZING....
Maybe the pressure switch is bad and it's not letting the compressor really pump up before shutting off..
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 6
From: Houston TX
Sorry Guy
It sounds like you now have too much 134A in there now.
45PSI will give you an evap temp of about 50 degrees (not that cool)
Too much Freon is bad for your compressor also.
After 5 minutes of operation your low pressure reading has to be 30 to 35 PSI. Then the return line and your evaporator will be at that familiar freezing to the touch temperature.
Pressure is used to determine temperature and for 134A, 30PSI is just above freezing.
I hope this helps
D
It sounds like you now have too much 134A in there now.
45PSI will give you an evap temp of about 50 degrees (not that cool)
Too much Freon is bad for your compressor also.
After 5 minutes of operation your low pressure reading has to be 30 to 35 PSI. Then the return line and your evaporator will be at that familiar freezing to the touch temperature.
Pressure is used to determine temperature and for 134A, 30PSI is just above freezing.
I hope this helps
D
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 87
From: Largo FL
I had ther same problem and did the same thing you did - reset doors and recharged - nothing worked. Finally took it in to an AC shop, he vacuated and refilled, ice cold now. He explained to me that the 134 systems are more sensitive -
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
Originally Posted by chuckster
Up to 45psi is Normal.. So I said screw it and added more freon till it hit right on the 45psi mark..
You didn't mention you met these conditions in the 45 psi notes.
One disadvantage of only suction gauge is you don't know what the high side is doing. I would expect the high side to be 230 - 260 set as I described. If you can get a gauge (not the one you bought) on the high side and find you are over 260 you are over charged or have a restriction such as a plugging orifice tube. If below 230 or so you could have a compressor failing.
Best of luck,, 99 Nassau Blue
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
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From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by jimcork1
I charge up to 28 to 32 on the suction side. This is probably a little light but better than over charge. The suction pressures are measured only with the A/C on HIGH blower doors and all vents open with temp control set on MAX cold. I also wait until out side air temps are 80+ before charging.
You didn't mention you met these conditions in the 45 psi notes.
One disadvantage of only suction gauge is you don't know what the high side is doing. I would expect the high side to be 230 - 260 set as I described. If you can get a gauge (not the one you bought) on the high side and find you are over 260 you are over charged or have a restriction such as a plugging orifice tube. If below 230 or so you could have a compressor failing.
Best of luck,, 99 Nassau Blue
You didn't mention you met these conditions in the 45 psi notes.
One disadvantage of only suction gauge is you don't know what the high side is doing. I would expect the high side to be 230 - 260 set as I described. If you can get a gauge (not the one you bought) on the high side and find you are over 260 you are over charged or have a restriction such as a plugging orifice tube. If below 230 or so you could have a compressor failing.
Best of luck,, 99 Nassau Blue
I did have the A/C on High with full fans and vents open.
It was about 95 degrees outside when I did it
Also, I checked the pressure before I added any more Freon and it was 35psi. But again at 35psi I was still having the problem.
I will let out some freon to get it back to 35psi. I know.... Bad for the atmosphere...
As far as the High Pressure side.. you are right.. I don't really know. I do not have a set of gauges to test it..
Although it's possible the compressor could be bad.. Let's assume for a moment it's good.. And I have a full charge.. What else should I look for? As I said earlier.. The low pressure tube is BARELY COOL.... hint number one.. The high pressure tube is however it's typical SCALDING HOT! Does that prove the compressor is working??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,900
Likes: 1,841
From: Hot Springs AR
Chuckster,
Two things come to mind: first, check your condensor and see if it's plugged up with some debris. Remember the fans pull air only secondarily through the condensor.
Second, you could have a bad expansion valve, but the only way to check it is to take a high pressure reading. Autozone has a decent set of gauges for R-134a for $50, everything you need.
Your compressor should run continuously during your test, so the pressure switches seem to be OK. You could have a bad compressor, but again a set of gauges will tell the tale.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Two things come to mind: first, check your condensor and see if it's plugged up with some debris. Remember the fans pull air only secondarily through the condensor.
Second, you could have a bad expansion valve, but the only way to check it is to take a high pressure reading. Autozone has a decent set of gauges for R-134a for $50, everything you need.
Your compressor should run continuously during your test, so the pressure switches seem to be OK. You could have a bad compressor, but again a set of gauges will tell the tale.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
Chuckster,
Two things come to mind: first, check your condensor and see if it's plugged up with some debris. Remember the fans pull air only secondarily through the condensor.
Second, you could have a bad expansion valve, but the only way to check it is to take a high pressure reading. Autozone has a decent set of gauges for R-134a for $50, everything you need.
Your compressor should run continuously during your test, so the pressure switches seem to be OK. You could have a bad compressor, but again a set of gauges will tell the tale.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Two things come to mind: first, check your condensor and see if it's plugged up with some debris. Remember the fans pull air only secondarily through the condensor.
Second, you could have a bad expansion valve, but the only way to check it is to take a high pressure reading. Autozone has a decent set of gauges for R-134a for $50, everything you need.
Your compressor should run continuously during your test, so the pressure switches seem to be OK. You could have a bad compressor, but again a set of gauges will tell the tale.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Where would I check for Debris on the Condensor?
I think I will go to Autozone and see if I can just borrow a test gauge for the High pressure side.. Assuming I have good pressure and no clog at the condensor you think a bad expansion Valve???
To replace this I imagine the system must be evacuated and done professionally?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Mesa Arizona
Originally Posted by chuckster
To replace this I imagine the system must be evacuated and done professionally?
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Wichita KS
My A/C is not as cold as I would like and was thinking of charging it with one of those 134a cans with the gauge built into it also. I did not see where I need to connect it though. Where do you hook up the hose? I didnt see the compressor or condensor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,900
Likes: 1,841
From: Hot Springs AR
Originally Posted by chuckster
thanks!!
Where would I check for Debris on the Condensor?
I think I will go to Autozone and see if I can just borrow a test gauge for the High pressure side.. Assuming I have good pressure and no clog at the condensor you think a bad expansion Valve???
To replace this I imagine the system must be evacuated and done professionally?
Where would I check for Debris on the Condensor?
I think I will go to Autozone and see if I can just borrow a test gauge for the High pressure side.. Assuming I have good pressure and no clog at the condensor you think a bad expansion Valve???
To replace this I imagine the system must be evacuated and done professionally?
Just visually examine the condensor in front of the radiator from underneath the car. Also, I wouldn't try to lower the low side pressure in your system, there's a relationship between the pressures and the ambient air temps. As far as AZ's tool checkout goes, I don't know if they've got gauges for public use or not.
I hate to sound picky, but you really need a set of gauges to get this checked out.
Lickitydo,
Once again, don't just plug a can of freon into your system because you don't think it's cold enough. Since we don't have sight gauges anymore, the only thing you can go by are the system pressures. Actually, there is one thing you can watch for: if your compressor clutch is running steady without disengaging after two or three minutes, you've probably got enough freon in your system until you can get a set of pressure gauges to check the high and low side with.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
Chuck,
Just visually examine the condensor in front of the radiator from underneath the car. Also, I wouldn't try to lower the low side pressure in your system, there's a relationship between the pressures and the ambient air temps. As far as AZ's tool checkout goes, I don't know if they've got gauges for public use or not.
I hate to sound picky, but you really need a set of gauges to get this checked out.
Lickitydo,
Once again, don't just plug a can of freon into your system because you don't think it's cold enough. Since we don't have sight gauges anymore, the only thing you can go by are the system pressures. Actually, there is one thing you can watch for: if your compressor clutch is running steady without disengaging after two or three minutes, you've probably got enough freon in your system until you can get a set of pressure gauges to check the high and low side with.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Just visually examine the condensor in front of the radiator from underneath the car. Also, I wouldn't try to lower the low side pressure in your system, there's a relationship between the pressures and the ambient air temps. As far as AZ's tool checkout goes, I don't know if they've got gauges for public use or not.
I hate to sound picky, but you really need a set of gauges to get this checked out.
Lickitydo,
Once again, don't just plug a can of freon into your system because you don't think it's cold enough. Since we don't have sight gauges anymore, the only thing you can go by are the system pressures. Actually, there is one thing you can watch for: if your compressor clutch is running steady without disengaging after two or three minutes, you've probably got enough freon in your system until you can get a set of pressure gauges to check the high and low side with.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Thanks Man. I got the Condenser and the Evaporator mixed up... I'll go check it right now.... Wonder if a plastic bag got stuck on it...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
Chuck,
Just visually examine the condensor in front of the radiator from underneath the car. Also, I wouldn't try to lower the low side pressure in your system, there's a relationship between the pressures and the ambient air temps. As far as AZ's tool checkout goes, I don't know if they've got gauges for public use or not.
I hate to sound picky, but you really need a set of gauges to get this checked out.
Lickitydo,
Once again, don't just plug a can of freon into your system because you don't think it's cold enough. Since we don't have sight gauges anymore, the only thing you can go by are the system pressures. Actually, there is one thing you can watch for: if your compressor clutch is running steady without disengaging after two or three minutes, you've probably got enough freon in your system until you can get a set of pressure gauges to check the high and low side with.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Just visually examine the condensor in front of the radiator from underneath the car. Also, I wouldn't try to lower the low side pressure in your system, there's a relationship between the pressures and the ambient air temps. As far as AZ's tool checkout goes, I don't know if they've got gauges for public use or not.
I hate to sound picky, but you really need a set of gauges to get this checked out.
Lickitydo,
Once again, don't just plug a can of freon into your system because you don't think it's cold enough. Since we don't have sight gauges anymore, the only thing you can go by are the system pressures. Actually, there is one thing you can watch for: if your compressor clutch is running steady without disengaging after two or three minutes, you've probably got enough freon in your system until you can get a set of pressure gauges to check the high and low side with.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Well the perils of a lowered car.. Can't get under there to check...
I have to put her up on Rhino Ramps this weekend anyway to fix leaky directional Bezels... I swear I blow out bulbs every time I wash the car!
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
35 Psi should be good for a charge w/o adding freon.. I could be mistaken but I thought this system had an orifice tube vs the expansion valve. But be sure to check and confirm the center hub in the compressor is turning. The low pressure switch might be bad and not allowing the compressor to engage. The other item after confirming the top of the condensor (this is a common issue) isn't full of trash. If you are partially plugged you won't cool well.
Also check that when you turn the a/c on that both fans on the radiator are running. If you only have 1 you won't get enough air to cool properly. You could just have a bad fan. 99 Nassau Blue
Also check that when you turn the a/c on that both fans on the radiator are running. If you only have 1 you won't get enough air to cool properly. You could just have a bad fan. 99 Nassau Blue
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
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From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by jimcork1
35 Psi should be good for a charge w/o adding freon.. I could be mistaken but I thought this system had an orifice tube vs the expansion valve. But be sure to check and confirm the center hub in the compressor is turning. The low pressure switch might be bad and not allowing the compressor to engage. The other item after confirming the top of the condensor (this is a common issue) isn't full of trash. If you are partially plugged you won't cool well.
Also check that when you turn the a/c on that both fans on the radiator are running. If you only have 1 you won't get enough air to cool properly. You could just have a bad fan. 99 Nassau Blue
Also check that when you turn the a/c on that both fans on the radiator are running. If you only have 1 you won't get enough air to cool properly. You could just have a bad fan. 99 Nassau Blue
Ok, I am most certain the compressor is working or I would not get any cooling at all.. And the fans are ok because when I am moving at highway speeds the problem does not get much better..
I'll get her up on the ramps this weekend and check it out..
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati OH
How do you reset the Dampers?
[QUOTE=chuckster]Ok, my A/C was blowing cool but not hot and it was cooler on the passenger side than the driver side...
SOme peeps said to reset the Dampers and also said my Freon was low..
I reset the dampers and that did nothing..
*****How do you reset the Dampers ???*******
SOme peeps said to reset the Dampers and also said my Freon was low..
I reset the dampers and that did nothing..
*****How do you reset the Dampers ???*******