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The general rule of thumb I've most often seen for the MN6 is 15% loss from crank to rear wheels, which would put you at 293 RWHP or so. A4 will lose a little more - 18 to 20% or so.
The 97 and 98's didn't make as much as some of the newer Vettes due to small changes GM made along the way...more internal and just part of the constant evolution and refinement of the vehicle.
Also, big variable here is what dyno and who's facility, but I think if you went to 10 different places your average would be closer to 290-295 RWHP (assuming bone stock).
Have fun...you can only go up from here. The first 50 extra HP is relatively easy...its gets more expensive and more time consuming from there...
Wow!! I'm somewhat dissapointed by those numbers, but I can live with them, and do nothing but improve them. Any advice on the best mods for that provide the best horsepower???
Wow!! I'm somewhat dissapointed by those numbers, but I can live with them, and do nothing but improve them. Any advice on the best mods for that provide the best horsepower???
Typically, the best way for the LS1/LS6 engines to gain power is to make them breathe a little better, meaning intake and exhaust. There are numerous aftermarket intakes available, and most of them generate roughly the same gains in horsepower, plus or minus a few horses depending upon the style you choose. Exhaust also plays a role, so a good set of headers wouldn't hurt either. Long tube headers create more power than short headers, but both of them have their pros and cons on installation, error codes, and smog inspections. Also, to some degree a good cat-back system might help, but actual horsepower gains with a cat-back are questionable, and you may or may not see any gains. Cat-backs are generally there to set the tone of the exhaust.
With an aftermarket intake, headers, and cat-back, you should see gains in the vicinity of 20 to 40 horses, depending upon the configuration you choose to install.
The 97 and 98's didn't make as much as some of the newer Vettes due to small changes GM made along the way...more internal and just part of the constant evolution and refinement of the vehicle.
Also, big variable here is what dyno and who's facility, but I think if you went to 10 different places your average would be closer to 290-295 RWHP (assuming bone stock).
Have fun...you can only go up from here. The first 50 extra HP is relatively easy...its gets more expensive and more time consuming from there...
Typically, the best way for the LS1/LS6 engines to gain power is to make them breathe a little better, meaning intake and exhaust. There are numerous aftermarket intakes available, and most of them generate roughly the same gains in horsepower, plus or minus a few horses depending upon the style you choose. Exhaust also plays a role, so a good set of headers wouldn't hurt either. Long tube headers create more power than short headers, but both of them have their pros and cons on installation, error codes, and smog inspections. Also, to some degree a good cat-back system might help, but actual horsepower gains with a cat-back are questionable, and you may or may not see any gains. Cat-backs are generally there to set the tone of the exhaust.
With an aftermarket intake, headers, and cat-back, you should see gains in the vicinity of 20 to 40 horses, depending upon the configuration you choose to install.
We dyno'd tw0 M6 98's, mine with 137,000 miles and my friend's with 100k less and they were both around 312.
Those are pretty high numbers. Was this on a chasis dyno, mustang dyno? Were the numbers SAE corrected? 97-00 vettes were rated at 345 engine horsepower and 312 puts you at 359 on an MN6. No mods whatsoever, not even an aftermarket intake??
I have a 2000 FRC (MM6) that I put a 2004 LS1 replacement engine into (GM pt no. 89017548) because I dinged the original eng at a track day. The new block is an LS6 block, with LS1 (241 casting) heads, but don't know what cam is there, assuming '04 LS1 internals, NOT LS6 as that is obviously a different part no. The only mods are a Z06 air box, K&N air filter, LS6 intake, Z06 cast iron headers, H pipe, and Ti cat backs (complete '03 Z06 stock exhaust system). I am using the original 2000 (smaller) MAF and throttle body, and original (26#) injectors. I have not opened the engine as it is under a 3 yr/100K warranty from GM.
It consistantly dynos SAE 330 RWHP/344 RWTQ on A&A's dyno after a tune. It dynoed SAE 324 RWHP/338 RWTQ prior to the tune. I never had the original engine dynoed before I broke it. Charlie (the tuner) and Andy (the owner) at A&A both say those were very strong stock LS1 numbers, as they usually expect around 300 RWHP from a stock motor. That is approx 390 crank HP given 15% drive train loss. His dyno is supposed to be conservative (SAE corr factor of .99) due to their close proximity to the coast.
Given those numbers, I would think they made some improvments to the LS1 over the years.
I have a 2000 FRC (MM6) that I put a 2004 LS1 replacement engine into (GM pt no. 89017548) because I dinged the original eng at a track day. The new block is an LS6 block, with LS1 (241 casting) heads, but don't know what cam is there, assuming '04 LS1 internals, NOT LS6 as that is obviously a different part no. The only mods are a Z06 air box, K&N air filter, LS6 intake, Z06 cast iron headers, H pipe, and Ti cat backs (complete '03 Z06 stock exhaust system). I am using the original 2000 (smaller) MAF and throttle body, and original (26#) injectors. I have not opened the engine as it is under a 3 yr/100K warranty from GM.
It consistantly dynos SAE 330 RWHP/344 RWTQ on A&A's dyno after a tune. It dynoed SAE 324 RWHP/338 RWTQ prior to the tune. I never had the original engine dynoed before I broke it. Charlie (the tuner) and Andy (the owner) at A&A both say those were very strong stock LS1 numbers, as they usually expect around 300 RWHP from a stock motor. That is approx 390 crank HP given 15% drive train loss. His dyno is supposed to be conservative (SAE corr factor of .99) due to their close proximity to the coast.
Given those numbers, I would think they made some improvments to the LS1 over the years.
those are nice numbers, but they seem pretty realistic considering you are running ZO6 full exhaust, ls6 intake, and ZO6 airbox. And you have been tuned. your engine is still very strong though
Those are pretty high numbers. Was this on a chasis dyno, mustang dyno? Were the numbers SAE corrected? 97-00 vettes were rated at 345 engine horsepower and 312 puts you at 359 on an MN6. No mods whatsoever, not even an aftermarket intake??
Absolutely correct. My 04 MN6 bone stock, but with questionabl gas in it, dynoed at 291. Started running Chevron and had the LS1 edit done and in worse air, it made 313HP, which is considered on the high side.
#'s much higher, like stated above are . Sorry but this is one of my pet peeves ever since a buddy of mine was told his stock 00 MN6 made 345 RWHP. Do this day he will argue that this is accurate.
those are nice numbers, but they seem pretty realistic considering you are running ZO6 full exhaust, ls6 intake, and ZO6 airbox. And you have been tuned. your engine is still very strong though
I'm happy with it. I guess the Z06 H pipe that doesn't have the pup cats like my stock 2000 H pipe, and the Ti cat backs are worth something. The cast iron exhaust manifolds and the intake are stock for all '01-'04 C5s, LS1 and LS6, but I'm running smaller injectors, MAF, and TB than all '01-'04 LS1s. What was interesting is that the advance curve in the 2000 PCM was very aggressive. It took Charlie about 5 hours to get the LS1 Edit program to stay out of detonation and get those numbers, even though he was only able to get 7 RWHP/6 RWTQ above the stock program numbers. He then tried a generic Z06 PCM program, and it got pretty close to what he had built because the Z06 does not have as aggressive advance curve. If I had been willing to take more detonation, he could have gotten bigger numbers, but the car is my DD and I want it to last.