I am kinda confused on the driveability with a stall. I heard that you are basically driving around with a transmission thats slipping? I have an a4 that I would like to put a stall in the future but I dont know how it will be driving around on a stall. Whats factory stalled at?

Thanks for your time,

Jarret

 

Factory stall is around 1600.

 

Really interested in that, too!

 

Your tranny doesn't feel like it's slipping with a mild high stall T/C. Even with my 4200 stall & 3.73 gears it doesn't feel like that.

I have had 4 different stalls in my car, from the stock 1600 to a PT2400, an ST3500 and now my present TCS4200. And I can tell you how much looseness you get depends on the stall of the converter, the design of the converter (what STR) and what gear ratio you are running. For example if you want a combo that drives almost like stock you would select a T/C with a mild stall (2800-3200) with a high STR (at least 2.0) and at least 3.42 gears. The numerically bigger the gears the tighter any high stall T/C will feel (more like stock).

A great street combo would be the Yank SS3200 (it has a 2.3 STR) and at least 3.42 gears. If you selected 3.73 gears this combo would feel even more like stock than it would with 3.42 gears. Because of the SS3200s design it would even work very well with 3.15 gears although it wouldn't feel quite as tight a it would with 3.42 or 3.73 gears.

 

I am running a Vigilante 2800 with 3.42s. The higher stall can be noticed, at first it bothered me. After driving it I got use to the different feel of the car (having tranny pressure and shift speeds adjusted professionally was a plus). I am glad that I added the TC, it really improved the SOTP feel when I floor it. The performance results of a TC are big.

The best thing you can do is find someone that has a higher stall in their car and go for a ride. Short of that you will be guessing.

 

I had the same first impression as Mike04 but now I love it (3.42 + 3200SS). The slipping is hard to describe, you have to give it a bit more gas to get it moving. In stop and go traffic it will sound like you're rev'ing more and moving less but when you have open road, man it's awesome.

I definately advise trying to get a ride with someone if you can. Better to get that first impression on someone else's car instead of investing $$ to find out you don't like it.

 

It should be mentioned that the Vig 2800 actually stalls at 3200 RPM.

 

Like Nike says, Just do it It's a great mod for an auto and you'll get used to it in no time.

 

The looseness that you and Mike04 describe are precisely why I decided to go with the Pro Torque 2400, the original choice of Mitch C. Spoke with the people at Pro torque before buying it and they say it has an STR of 2.3. I absolutely love it as it drives very close to stock with no loosness to speak of and hits very hard off the line.

However, now I am looking at AFR heads and that Thunder Racing 224/224 114 cam and the feasability of doing that vs buying a C6. The 2400 stall might be too low.

 

With questions like this you really need to give more info on what your goals are with the car. There are two reasons for changing the stall. The first is if you put in a mid size to big cam, it will need the extra slip so that the idle can be set higher without choking the engine. The only other reason to change the converter is for drag racing. Mitch C gave a great response to you. Think of a higher stall like a clutch. On the track when you hit full throttle it's like dropping a clutch at the listed RPM of the stall. This affects your 60 foot times. The higher the stall the shorter your 60 foot times. For a daily driver most people stay under a 3200 with a 2.0 STR, most serious racers are above 4400. With a 3200 and at least 3.42's or 3.72's you should see a 60 foot time of about 1.5 to 1.6. You will use more gas with an after market stall, no matter what you choose it will still drive fine but you will see codes being thrown without programming to turn them off because the PCM will think that the tranny is slipping. Just a few things to consider.

 

I have a Yank 2800 thru 3.15 rear gears. You notice it in stop and go traffic, but it doesn't take long to get used to. My kind of driving, I doubt if I would go with a higher stall, or taller rear gears for that matter. With the power from the Lingenfelter heads/cam package and the Yank 2800, traction is an issue for me. You can't go wrong with a higher stall converter along with taller rear gears for SOTP performance. Research it though before you do anything!

 

I upgraded from the PT2400 to the ST3500 because I did H/C. You can get away with using the PT2400 with a mild H/C package. But you won't get the maximum performance out of your H/C combo. Especially your performance from a roll.

 

Tci 3000 and 3.42's. It is like driving a 6 speed and not entirely letting off the clutch until you get a little higher in rpm's.Also convertors are sensitive to torque.At idle your engine produces about 65 lbs/ft of torque so it will still creep foward if you let off the brake.If you take off easy it will take off with a little (slipping the clutch) feeling and when you stab it,it will go like hell.I never looked back and i can gaurentee i will never have a car that is supposed to be fast again,and not put a stall in it.
I hardly ever go to the track either.Its just fun to have on the streets.Also the shift extentions are great.You loose little rpm's between shifts so you stay in that sweet spot.

 

I have tried several different high stall converters, I did not like any of them. I will not be putting one in my new C5. The added heat and slippage is not worth the .5 sec in the 1/4mi to me.

I HIGHLY suggest driving a vette with one before pulling the trigger.


AZC5

 

Honez is right about us needing to know more about the intended use. I do think his view of the role of a converter is a tad narrow though. Things like torque multiplication and shift extension characteristics are really important factors to consider, drag racing or not. So how do you want to use the car?

 

Are these converters locking or non-locking ????

 

They will lock up when cruising for gas milage purposes depending on the one you buy.Although mine is sneeky when it does because i cant feel it like the stock one.Go higher than you think too.I got a 3000 thinking it would be too high but as it goes i wish i had gotten a 3400.Get yourself some gears as well.I really didnt get these to do any damage on the track.It actually feels like a musclecar now as opposed to those 2.73 though!!!!

 

I have a yank 3800 2.7 str. I found that if you part thottle shift points are setup correctly you can make a 3800 feel like a 2400 stall. i drive around town and never go over 2500 rpms for normal driving. I played with my part thottle shift points for 2 months about 30 hours of driving and its perfect.

Here is my table:

13 14 15 16 17 19 21 23 25 27 30 33 36 38 40 43 46
24 26 28 30 32 34 35 38 41 44 49 55 62 70 77 83 87
38 39 43 48 55 63 73 85 99 110 119 125 128 128 130 134 140
10 11 12 13 14 16 18 20 22 24 27 30 33 35 37 40 42
21 23 25 27 29 31 32 35 38 41 46 52 59 67 74 79 80
35 37 40 45 52 60 70 82 96 107 116 122 125 125 127 131 137

By having the tranny shift sooner rather than hold a gear gives it a tighter feel. A friend drove it, he has a 4000 stall, and thought my car drove much better around town. If you spend the time to get the part thottle shift points to your liking you can get a much larger stall that drives great!