I've just discovered how terrific second gear is on mountain roads. Do I have to worry about trans temp leaving car in second for 1/2 hour or more of spirited mountain driving? Temp on DIC 239. I've seen a trans cooler installed on MN6. Driver does track days.

Thanks,

JungleJohn

 

A trans cooler is highly recommended, many of us are running the following: B&M model #70264 (24,000 BTU) comes with all of the hoses, hardware, etc. The top line at the radiator is the return line.
I paid aprox $65.00 at my local speed shop.
For more choices you can try the B&M web site: www.bmracing.com

Rick

 

How much has the temp dropped?

 

I live in Dallas(hell in summer) and my temps went down 30 degrees. I also installed an Oil cooler, it also dropped 30 degrees in temp on a hot aZZ day....

Shahram

 

Temps in hot stop and go traffic used to run 220+, after cooler install temps average 180-185, occasional 190.
On the hwy, before temps would run around 190-200, now stays around 165, hard driving in the canyons saw changes along the lines of the above mentioned stop and go driving.
As added insurance I`ve added a 160 stat and re-programmed the fan on/off settings via hyper-tech as it gets pretty toasty here in So Cal.


Rick

 

rp
the part number you describe is 14,400 btu on b&m s website just to let you know

 

also how bout some pics of the install
im probably getting one as cheap insurance
im kinda hard on transmissions from past situations

 

Thanks!

I'll be trying to do this mod or have local shop do it. Where did you put the trans cooler?

JungleJohn

 

Guys........I re-read the B&M web site print out I saved.
The rating I quoted was GVW (gross vehicle weight) not BTU, I stand corrected!
As far as pics, I didn`t bother to take any, as my computer doesn`t have enough memory left to post them. It won`t even pull up most of the pics posted here on the forum...grrrrrrrr.

Regarding install location, per the B&M instructions, I mounted the cooler in front of/forward of the air cond condenser and lined it up the best I could with one of the fans.

One last thing, the instructions say run the cooler in-line with the radiator, ie: running a line from the top radiator connection to the cooler and from the cooler back to the tranny return line.
The problem with this routing is that it clutters the engine compartment because of the funky routing of cooler hoses, imo.
I am considering re-installing the cooler lines using the bottom radiator connection as the feed to the cooler, which will result in a much cleaner install (no cooler lines in the top of engine compartment.) According to a couple of tuners I spoke with, they favor using the bottom connection as well for the reasons I just noted. Apparently there haven`t been any drawbacks to using the bottom rad connection as the feed for the cooler.

Good luck!

Rick

 

Thanks Rick,

This probably won't happen for me for a month or two, but I'll post results, before and after temps, and maybe some pics. Appreciate your reply.

JungleJohn

 

REMINDER: Don`t forget to top off/add tranny fulid after the cooler install, in fact if your car is even close to a tranny service, doing so along with the cooler install might be a good idea.
There should be a few "how to`s" in the archive section.

Good luck.
Rick

 

The reason most people install a transcooler using the top fitting on the radiator is because this allows the fluid to go through the cooler in the radiator before going to the aftermarket cooler. By going through the aftermarket cooler first, it is likely you will be reheating the fluid before it is sent back to the transmission. I would rather bypass the factory cooler altogether before I hooked it up that way. Bypassing the factory cooler altogether may not be best as there are those that say that since it helps warm up the cold fluid, this is good.

As far as what cooler to use, you might get by with a 14,000 BTU (B&M 70264 or 70273) but something around 20,000 BTU’s (B&M 70266) would be better especially if you ever decide to add a high stall torque converter or take it to a roadcourse. The 70273 or 70266 offer the opportunity to use braided steel line that I like the looks and security of compared to the rubber hose and clamp method.

If you choose to go with braided lines Summit has all the parts you need, except for the GM fitting:
Note: Summit puts a prefix in front of the number (AER-)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2013 –6 AN to ½ NPT male adapter (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM1022 –6 AN 45* swivel hose end (trans return line)

(2) Aeroquip FCM4032 –6 AN 90* swivel hose end (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM4042 –6 AN 120* swivel hose end (radiator)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2108 –6 AN to 5/8 –18 inverted flare adapter (radiator & trans return line)

(1) Aeroquip FCA0606 –6 AN AQP racing hose, 6ft.

(1) GM # 442338 (or similar) 5/8 –18 inverted flare female union (trans return line)

Aeroquip website: http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/lit.html

B&M uses ½ NPT, female fittings on their coolers, others may be different.

It may be wise to cover up the steel braided line with some of that corregated split plastic wrap as the steel braid can be very abrasive on whatever it contacts,

GM used the 5/8 –18 inverted flare fittings on transmission lines, through at least 2000 and probably later, then it was changed to something else but I can't recall what it is