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I installed a used DTE strut. When trying to adjust the top 2 struts, I can only get 3/4 turn on passanger side, and 7/8 turn on drivers side from the zero lash postion. It is bottomed out against the nut and Hiem joint (no more adjustment). The bottom 2 struts adjusted fine to the 1 1/4 turn from zero lash like directions indicate. Is something wrong with my set-up, meaning, gear box, third member, or a issue with strut brace? This is also a early design strut with bottom passenger strut bolting to plate rather than welded block like the other 3 struts? Any help on this issue would relieve the worry that this may be problematic later on. Is it ok this way, I hope, as it's back together? Thanks,
Robert
You should have slightly shortened the hollow rod with the threads in it (in a chop saw for a straight cut). That would have enabled you to have the proper pre-load per DTE's recommendation. Obviously leaving it this way isn't as effective as having the proper preload on the case but I would be very surprised if you experienced a fracture of the diff case in the future, even set-up the way you have it (which is far better than having nothing at all).
Robert-
Do you have the latest revision of the strut rod adjustment procedures we released a few months ago? They were writen to address this for our DIY customers. If not, let us know and we'll email them to you.
No, I have the original install sheet that came with kit. Please send revision. I believe it's a early model? Maybe a late model? Explained above.
Robert
Here's a link to a post we made a while back that included the new adjustment procedures. We'll post it here again for anyone else that wishes to print them off for their own use. Also, be sure the threads of the strut rods are clean~ i.e. that there is no dirt, shipping waste, etc, etc, that could have found there way into the ends of the rods that would keep the heim joints from seating all the way down to the bottom. We've seen that one before also. Give us a call if you need anymore help.