Want to install a tranny cooler on my '01 A4. Don't know how much cooling I need. Seems like it would be self-defeating to put in something that is only marginally better than nothing. Any brands, vendors, models I should look at? Thanks

 

A tranny cooler is a highly recommended option.... you can research some choices @ www.bmracing.com
Many of us run B&M model #70264 (14,000BTU) 42,000GVW
Runs around $50-60.00 and includes hoses/clamps, instructions, etc.
Average temp reductions run around 20-30 degrees.

Rick

 

What he said!!!

 

I just installed a B&M 29200 btu (PN#79274) in my 2001 c-5, took about 2hrs. get a flex-a-lite fan install kit to mount it because the b&M super coolers do not come with the push threw plastic zip locks ($15.00) comes with the rubber isolaters as well. I installed mine with high temp/pressure AN fittings and braided hose 1/2" >3/8" at cooler. Just cut your bottom tube going into the rad @ 1" from the bend ...just enough to get the tube to AN fitting on both ends (3/8"brass ring/nut adapter) or the cheaper way is to flare the ends slightly and double clamp HP rubber hose onto it and use barbed fittings on the cooler. Max

 

Many people like the B&M 70264 (14,400 BTU 6x11x1.5), which is sometimes referred to as a 24,000 GVW cooler. Summit’s # is BMM-70264. It includes hoses, clamps, and adapters as well as everything you need to mount the cooler. If you prefer to use AN fittings and stainless steel braided hose then get the B&M 70273. Summits # is BMM-70273 and it doesn’t come with an installation kit.

A lot of people prefer the larger B&M 70270 (8x11x1.5) to drop temps down more. Summit’s # is BMM-70270 and it comes with the same installation kit as the 70264. For use with braided lines the Summit # is BMM-70266. I use the #70297 for extra insurance on a road course in the summer heat.

If you want to use braided lines you’ll need Summit’s SUM-G4990 mounting kit and these additional parts:

Note: Summit puts a prefix in front of the number (AER-)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2013 –6 AN to ½ NPT male adapter (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM1022 –6 AN 45* swivel hose end (trans return line)

(2) Aeroquip FCM4032 –6 AN 90* swivel hose end (cooler)

(1) Aeroquip FCM4042 –6 AN 120* swivel hose end (radiator)

(2) Aeroquip FCM2108 –6 AN to 5/8 –18 inverted flare adapter (radiator & trans return line)

(1) Aeroquip FCA0606 –6 AN AQP racing hose, 6ft.

(1) GM # 442338 (or similar) 5/8 –18 inverted flare female union (trans return line)

Aeroquip website: http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/lit.html

B&M uses ½ NPT female fittings on their coolers, others may be different.

It may be wise to cover up the steel braided line with some of that corrugated split plastic wrap as the steel braid can be very abrasive on whatever it contacts,

GM used the 5/8 –18 inverted flare fittings on transmission lines, through at least 2001 and probably later, then it was changed to something else but I can't recall what it is.

While many people choose to rout the lines a different way, I prefer putting the cooler between the stock cooler in the radiator and the return (upper) line of the trans. That way the radiator will help warm the fluid when it’s cold (which many say is a good thing, especially in cold climates) and the cooler can still bring it down to a good level, especially if it’s a 70270 or 70266 cooler

 

thanks for the details. I am thinking of this upgrade, since I like to drive in the mountains. Another option suggested to me was to upgrade to a performance radiator,which would lower the temp of engine coolant and trans coolant, without the need of a separate trans cooler.

At the cost of about $400 for a bigger rad. What say you?

 

I have a Ron Davis radiator, which brought down my coolant temps alot and my trans temp also. Even though the temps for the tranny went down, they are still not cool enough for me. That's why I'm also adding one of the B&M coolers.

 

The first step in lowering coolant temps is a lower temp thermostat like a 160 and have the fans adjusted to take advantage of the ‘stat. to keep temps within the 175-195 range.

A modest radiator upgrade (basically stock with a thicker core) will bring coolant temps down a bit further but won’t make much of a difference in trans temp. A more costly upgrade like a Ron Davis will make a significant difference in both temps but is probably overkill for coolant temps unless you are making some serious HP under very hot conditions or have forced induction.

 

Anyone ever hear of Hayden brand? Thats what they sell at PepBoys. Also, where do these go? Any pics?
jeff

 

 

I emailed Bob at Fichtner Chevrolet to see if GM made a transmission cooler for the A4. Here's his reply. What do you guys think about this idea?
jeff

Bob's reply to my email:
The only cooler for the C5 with an automatic is in the RH radiator tank and is standard. GM does not offer a secondary trans cooler, BUT. I have had several customers use a power steering cooler that came on the Z06 and hook it up as a secondary trans cooler. You would need to do some slight modification to the tubing and run your own lines from the radiator down to it but I have been told it does work. It is made to mount on the crossmember under the engine. The C5R teams were also using it as a differential cooler as well.

 

I've heard good things about B&M 24,000 cooler as well. I bought it from a member here, and am still waiting for him to send it to me. Will probably get it in a few days....

Anyone knows what's the most effective way to put on a Tranny cooler ? Some say, just by pass the tranny radiator for it to work the best and keep temps really down. Others say, put it in a series, before the radiator... So whats the best way to achieve the lowest temps ?

Thanks in advance... Its all good info and education on this forum..

 

The B&M instructions that come with the 24,000 say to run the cooler in series with the rad. You could always call/email B&M or any of top tuners here on the forum for their opinion/recommendations.

Rick

 

The F51, Z06 cooler lists for about $170 and a really good price is about $90. It is about the same as the base PS cooler but has fins on it.

When you compare the size to any of the $40-$50 coolers, you don't have to be an expert to see the marginal cooling capacity the GM cooler has when compared to other finned tubes coolers selling for a fraction of the price. When compared to the more efficient plate design coolers, such as the $50 B&M 70264, the cooling capacity difference is much greater.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...230&forum_id=1

Thanks for info Rick. Plz check out the link, and you'll see some guys who completely by pass the radiator and gain better results. This is a common thing for a lot of ppl. SO thats what confuses me..

 

Plz check out the link, and you'll see some guys who completely by pass the radiator and gain better results. This is a common thing for a lot of ppl. SO thats what confuses me.. [/QUOTE]


Maybe they had it hooked up backwards! You want the hot trans fluid going to the cooler radiator first, then to the transmission cooler afterwards to cool it down more. If you go the otherway, then you will be heating it back up to the coolant temp. But your coolant temp has to be cooler than the fluid temp coming out of your transmission. So you need a colder thermostat to take advantage of pre-cooling it with the radiator.

 

I would think the Transmission cooler would cool better if you bypass the radiator. HOWEVER, during cold weather, you'd need the fluid to go thru the radiator to warm it up to operating temps. Wouldn't you???
jeff

 

You maybe right Jeff, but then it would depend on which state you live in and what kinda weather you have. As I live in CA, it never gets here that cold. So running a COOOL tranny would be a good thing (I thinnk).

 

Vette_Fan, like you I appreciate all off the opinions and recommendations from other forum members. Sometimes there will be a divided opinion on a product and or it`s application, in these cases I always contact a reputable shop/tuner for their suggestions and usually follow their advise.

In So. Cal Andy @ A&A is a good choice, in Central/N. Calif I`m sure someone else could help you out with a suggestion.

Good luck with your decision.


Rick