F45 Disable - SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 62
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From: McHenry IL
F45 Disable - SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
OK, I've heard both sides on whether to use resistors (still haven't got EXACT sizes or part #) or disable with a Tech II. I don't really know what a Tech II is (other than a hand-held programmer)...do only dealers normally have these?
Everyone suggests that I do the latter, however, the problem is that here in N. Illinois, no dealer in the area will disable this system due to "their liability" (give me a break!) and naturally, non-dealer mechanics types don't even know what I'm talking about.
To me, this is whole scenario is such nonsense!
Anyone have ANY suggestions? Is my only choice the overpriced ($170) bypass system from PFYC?
Everyone suggests that I do the latter, however, the problem is that here in N. Illinois, no dealer in the area will disable this system due to "their liability" (give me a break!) and naturally, non-dealer mechanics types don't even know what I'm talking about.
To me, this is whole scenario is such nonsense!
Anyone have ANY suggestions? Is my only choice the overpriced ($170) bypass system from PFYC?
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: McHenry IL
Follow up...
I may have found a dealer, but want to check on how this is done (in addition to disconnecting the F45 module) 'cuz he's not quite sure.
Using the Tech II, how does one "disable" the system? Is it simply an "option" in the BCD code?
I may have found a dealer, but want to check on how this is done (in addition to disconnecting the F45 module) 'cuz he's not quite sure.
Using the Tech II, how does one "disable" the system? Is it simply an "option" in the BCD code?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Using Tech 2:
1-go into BCM reprogram .
2-It will ask what country it's built for.
3-It will ask if you have Z49.
4-Then it will list available options and you can toggle off ride control (remove asterisk).
5-Then hit reprogram,
6-then unplug the the ride control module (in driver-side storage bay).
7-Key off, wait a couple minutes and restart.
A buddy of mine had this done at a local dealer - 10 minutes and $25.
The resistor method uses 15 ohm, 3 watt resistors. You'd need to seal those up well to avoid contaminant and water issues. Also, you must leave the switch in the cabin in the performance position permanently or you'll blow the resistors when you turn the switch, forcing you to replace the resistors.
I would go the Tech II method. Much cleaner and you can re-enable it anytime if you decide to revert the car to stock.
Here's what the Tech II looks like. Some tuners have them as well and you can even find them on ebay for $2K or more.
1-go into BCM reprogram .
2-It will ask what country it's built for.
3-It will ask if you have Z49.
4-Then it will list available options and you can toggle off ride control (remove asterisk).
5-Then hit reprogram,
6-then unplug the the ride control module (in driver-side storage bay).
7-Key off, wait a couple minutes and restart.
A buddy of mine had this done at a local dealer - 10 minutes and $25.
The resistor method uses 15 ohm, 3 watt resistors. You'd need to seal those up well to avoid contaminant and water issues. Also, you must leave the switch in the cabin in the performance position permanently or you'll blow the resistors when you turn the switch, forcing you to replace the resistors.
I would go the Tech II method. Much cleaner and you can re-enable it anytime if you decide to revert the car to stock.
Here's what the Tech II looks like. Some tuners have them as well and you can even find them on ebay for $2K or more.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 2
From: Walnut CA
In addition to what Patches said, you HAVE to unplug both wiring harnesses that are found in the left rear part of the car--I believe its behind some carpet on the forward most wall in the small storage area at the back of the trunk (driver's side). If you don't unplug these harnesses BEFORE you do the Tech II, the F45 will automatically come back.
I learned the hard way... =)
I learned the hard way... =)
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 6
From: Sacramento CA
I had a local shop (MSI) disable my F45. It was quick and cheap, and it's reversible. I had originally gone to a local Chevy/Caddy dealer. They wanted $90 to do it. They originally weren't willing to do so. However, I printed out the directions on how to do it, to make things easier on them -- they don't do this task much, so the directions were helpful in convincing them.
Also, I unplugged the rear computer and removed it prior to having the F45 disabled. Two plugs and a metal clip are all that's holding in the "shock box".
Hope this helps.
Also, I unplugged the rear computer and removed it prior to having the F45 disabled. Two plugs and a metal clip are all that's holding in the "shock box".
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by Get a Vet
OK, I've heard both sides on whether to use resistors (still haven't got EXACT sizes or part #) or disable with a Tech II. I don't really know what a Tech II is (other than a hand-held programmer)...do only dealers normally have these?
Everyone suggests that I do the latter, however, the problem is that here in N. Illinois, no dealer in the area will disable this system due to "their liability" (give me a break!) and naturally, non-dealer mechanics types don't even know what I'm talking about.
To me, this is whole scenario is such nonsense! Anyone have ANY suggestions? Is my only choice the overpriced ($170) bypass system from PFYC?
Everyone suggests that I do the latter, however, the problem is that here in N. Illinois, no dealer in the area will disable this system due to "their liability" (give me a break!) and naturally, non-dealer mechanics types don't even know what I'm talking about.
To me, this is whole scenario is such nonsense!
Anyone have ANY suggestions? Is my only choice the overpriced ($170) bypass system from PFYC?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 62
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From: McHenry IL
Originally Posted by Paras
Hey, you're welcome... =)
The front end is one I'm working on building. I have a body kit manufacturer working on doing some final drawings for me...
The front end is one I'm working on building. I have a body kit manufacturer working on doing some final drawings for me...
Do you have a cost ballpark in mind yet? Are you working on a rear fascia also? I'm bored with Tigersharks, although the kit does look good.
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 2
From: Walnut CA
Originally Posted by Get a Vet
Oooh! Sooo, can you tell me more and/or send me a pic or two??? Looks very nice to me...kind of Modena-ish. Your car pic links don't seem to be working.
Do you have a cost ballpark in mind yet? Are you working on a rear fascia also? I'm bored with Tigersharks, although the kit does look good.
Do you have a cost ballpark in mind yet? Are you working on a rear fascia also? I'm bored with Tigersharks, although the kit does look good.
Pic1 is not exactly scaled right, pic 2 needs a little work as witnessed by the inside line and pic 3 is probably the best one done.
