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Should you be able to move the splined input shaft at the front of the Torque Tube up and down at all? (The end that goes into the flywheel #17). Mine has definate up and down and side to side play in it (a4). I don't think it should.... I think something isn't right, I would think the bearing should prevent that. I do have a vib at 4000 rpm.
Any links to pulling the drive shaft out of the torque tube?
Last edited by Mike04; Aug 31, 2005 at 02:31 PM.
Reason: Pic added
I agree that the shaft should not move. There are bearings and rubber couplings to prevent movement. I will be tearing mine apart this weekend to replace the bushings. Never had the torque tube apart. First time for everything.
I've taken one apart on a 98 and the coupler bolts were extremely tight. You can't buy the rubber couplers new separately - only good used ones if they even exist or aftermarket delrin or aluminum replacements from a few tuners. I tried locating some from a friend and only found one guy who had intact stockers he'd salvaged.
Also, the driveshaft assembly is balanced at the factory during assembly so keep that in mind. I believe others have reassembled without balancing with no vibration issues so I'm not sure of the necessity.
Patches,
Any more insight into the dis-assembly. After removing the bolts, are the bearing pressed in or will the interior assembly slide out? Also I know you can get replacement non-rubber couplings from Lamar Walden.
I agree that the shaft should not move. There are bearings and rubber couplings to prevent movement. I will be tearing mine apart this weekend to replace the bushings. Never had the torque tube apart. First time for everything.
Guys, it does move but it shouldnt move by hand. I took mine apart and back together again. When I put it back together the shaft was visibly off center. I made some calls and found out that you can use a rubber mallet to get it as close to center as possible before reinstalling it. Hope this helps.
BTW I bought the replacment couplers from Walden and they worked great. A little expensive but a great product.
I spoke incorrectly before. Rob told me that the shaft will move slightly and you need to hit it with a mallet to center it up. The pilot bearing centers the shaft. So it does float some inside the torque tube.
Taking mine apart tomorrow. I'll try to take some pics.
The replacement couplings are from Lamar Walden Automotive in Atlanta, GA. Do a search and you can find their website. The couplings are about $500 for the pair. They have had good luck with them and have found that the stock driveshaft holds up well and a carbon fiber shaft is not needed. They also claim reduced driveline shock and reduced wheel hop. I'll find out shortly.
I spoke incorrectly before. Rob told me that the shaft will move slightly and you need to hit it with a mallet to center it up. The pilot bearing centers the shaft. So it does float some inside the torque tube.
Taking mine apart tomorrow. I'll try to take some pics.
The replacement couplings are from Lamar Walden Automotive in Atlanta, GA. Do a search and you can find their website. The couplings are about $500 for the pair. They have had good luck with them and have found that the stock driveshaft holds up well and a carbon fiber shaft is not needed. They also claim reduced driveline shock and reduced wheel hop. I'll find out shortly.
Mine has slight movement... so I guess that is OK. As for hitting it with a mallet to center it What is recommended, a little love tap hitting what part? I'm assuming 17? More info please.