Gear replacement for 2000 A4 vert
I have a 2000 a4 vert with relatively no performance mods (other than stinger exhaust)... yet. I was contemplating replacing the gears for it is a popular mod on the forum
I have a few questions however
1. what is the best gear to replace to
2. is there a noticeable difference is only driven street
3. how hard is the gear to replace
4. Is it a mod that should be done sooner than later
5. What are the basic benefits and consequences
6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod
>>>Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and respond and please move if in the wrong section...
Thanks,
SRQC5
I have a 2000 a4 vert with relatively no performance mods (other than stinger exhaust)... yet. I was contemplating replacing the gears for it is a popular mod on the forum
I have a few questions however
1. what is the best gear to replace to.
That truly varies, cost wise 3.42, if cost is not an issue then 3.73.
2. is there a noticeable difference is only driven street. Oh yes.
3. how hard is the gear to replace.
Not difficult just remove and replace but you will need a couple jacks.
4. Is it a mod that should be done sooner than later.
sooner, gears and TC are the best upgrade.
5. What are the basic benefits and consequences.
More rev's, louder exhaust(You WILL want to lose the stingers).
6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod,
If you do alot of highway, do a high stall TC about 2800 and leave the gear alone, this assumes you have a 3.15.
>>>Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and respond and please move if in the wrong section...
Thanks,
SRQC5
As always YMMV. Jeff
I just performed this mod. Well I did the convertor at the same time.
I installed 3.73's. I picked up a whole diff(not just ring and pinion)
I installed a 3.73 assm and a yank 3600 stall.
This was done about 3 weeks ago. Not much driving since but yes hell of a difference. But very street able. I had 2.73's.
I still have to get some programming. Right now I hit the rev limiter. Which is known when you change gears and convertor. Programming will take care of that.
I am pretty close to you. Fort Myers area. Maybe we can hook up and you can go for a ride and see the difference.
Dennis
Last edited by craig04c5; Sep 19, 2005 at 03:26 PM.
As always YMMV. Jeff
Jeff, I noticed in your profile that you're running a Protorque 2800 with 3.42s. How loose does it feel compared to stock? I've had a mild heads/cam, intake, longtubes, etc., installed and am looking at 3.42s and a Protorque 2400 this coming winter. I drove a car with similar power, but a bigger cam, with 3.42s and a Protorque 2400, and really liked it. I probably have more low end than that car did, however. How did you decide on the 2800 rather than the 2400? Did you drive both first? I also drove a 3500 stall and didn't like that at all. Thanks!
Ed
After driving it for about 3 weeks now, the only time I notice it is when I pull in and out of the garage. The car barely creeps in gear now. I really like the 2800, but I truly have nothing to compare it to. I picked the 2800 as I got a killer deal on a used one. As always YMMV. Jeff
Jeff
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
After driving it for about 3 weeks now, the only time I notice it is when I pull in and out of the garage. The car barely creeps in gear now. I really like the 2800, but I truly have nothing to compare it to. I picked the 2800 as I got a killer deal on a used one. As always YMMV. Jeff
I've got a SS3600 and it's fine for me but I've got over 400rwhp (see sig) so maybe with more or less hp I'd like something else better.
I would go with at least a 2800 if I were you.
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
I've got a SS3600 and it's fine for me but I've got over 400rwhp (see sig) so maybe with more or less hp I'd like something else better.
I would go with at least a 2800 if I were you.
I agree. However "creep" is not subjective and I have had several C5 drivers remark about how my car "creeps" like a stock TC.Also the stall RPM should be chosen to be compatable with your torque curve which in turn depends on your cam.
I did the swap in a weekend like mentioned. Was able to work a few hours ata time. Have a 2 year old son helping me.
I feel I could do the swap in about 10 hours next time.
Here are some pics.
http://bowtye8.tzo.com/hovmovies/pic...nnyswap_tn.htm
Its a link...
I was by myself ...so you will see in the one pic I balanced the tranny/diff on a 6*6 on the jack. Yes It did balance pretty easy

I needed the 6*6 to give me the height.
I would sugest not removing the entire TQ tube.
The car does feel a ton softner putting into gear. You feel some convertor but at 70mph while locked its hardly noticable.
My input
Dennis


6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod
...
Driving at 55mph, the difference is not very noticable, but that changes RAPIDLY as speed increases. At 55 I can get about 29mpg, but at 65mph that drops to 26 and at 75 its down to about 23mpg (or less with the lights up and/or the Air Conditioning on). Most of my driving has been on almost flat roads and with the cruise-control set for constant speeds.
I seem to remember that people with stock gears get much better than 23 mpg while driving on flat roads at a constant 75mph.
If your highways are 55mph zones then you might not notice much at all. If there are long stretches where you are over 65mph, then you will have to feed the tank a bit more.
















