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Gear replacement for 2000 A4 vert

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Default Gear replacement for 2000 A4 vert

I realize this probably has been answered many times on the forum...but once more wouldn't hurt.

I have a 2000 a4 vert with relatively no performance mods (other than stinger exhaust)... yet. I was contemplating replacing the gears for it is a popular mod on the forum

I have a few questions however

1. what is the best gear to replace to

2. is there a noticeable difference is only driven street

3. how hard is the gear to replace

4. Is it a mod that should be done sooner than later

5. What are the basic benefits and consequences

6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod

>>>Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and respond and please move if in the wrong section...

Thanks,

SRQC5
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SRQC5
I realize this probably has been answered many times on the forum...but once more wouldn't hurt.

I have a 2000 a4 vert with relatively no performance mods (other than stinger exhaust)... yet. I was contemplating replacing the gears for it is a popular mod on the forum

I have a few questions however

1. what is the best gear to replace to.

That truly varies, cost wise 3.42, if cost is not an issue then 3.73.

2. is there a noticeable difference is only driven street. Oh yes.

3. how hard is the gear to replace.

Not difficult just remove and replace but you will need a couple jacks.

4. Is it a mod that should be done sooner than later.

sooner, gears and TC are the best upgrade.

5. What are the basic benefits and consequences.
More rev's, louder exhaust(You WILL want to lose the stingers).

6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod,

If you do alot of highway, do a high stall TC about 2800 and leave the gear alone, this assumes you have a 3.15.

>>>Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and respond and please move if in the wrong section...

Thanks,

SRQC5
See answers in bold.

As always YMMV. Jeff
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:20 PM
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thanks...
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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Hi,
I just performed this mod. Well I did the convertor at the same time.
I installed 3.73's. I picked up a whole diff(not just ring and pinion)
I installed a 3.73 assm and a yank 3600 stall.
This was done about 3 weeks ago. Not much driving since but yes hell of a difference. But very street able. I had 2.73's.
I still have to get some programming. Right now I hit the rev limiter. Which is known when you change gears and convertor. Programming will take care of that.
I am pretty close to you. Fort Myers area. Maybe we can hook up and you can go for a ride and see the difference.
Dennis
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:09 AM
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G-LOCK must be a service technician because it is not an easy job. You have some unique issues such as the torque tube making sure you don't lower to much as to have the engine hit the firewall which is a structural part of the car. Also the diff connects to the transmission. The entire rear cradle, exhaust to the cats and TT cover also needs to be removed. I would not advise a novice to try this job. While all these steps are well documented on this forum you should study and see if its something you think you can handle.

Last edited by craig04c5; Sep 19, 2005 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:01 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by G-lock
See answers in bold.

As always YMMV. Jeff

Jeff, I noticed in your profile that you're running a Protorque 2800 with 3.42s. How loose does it feel compared to stock? I've had a mild heads/cam, intake, longtubes, etc., installed and am looking at 3.42s and a Protorque 2400 this coming winter. I drove a car with similar power, but a bigger cam, with 3.42s and a Protorque 2400, and really liked it. I probably have more low end than that car did, however. How did you decide on the 2800 rather than the 2400? Did you drive both first? I also drove a 3500 stall and didn't like that at all. Thanks!
Ed
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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Ed-
After driving it for about 3 weeks now, the only time I notice it is when I pull in and out of the garage. The car barely creeps in gear now. I really like the 2800, but I truly have nothing to compare it to. I picked the 2800 as I got a killer deal on a used one. As always YMMV. Jeff
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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Thanx for the complement! The swap is not that difficult, just follow the instructions here and take a close look at the Corvette Forum article on a TC swap with Mike Norris, it's on their website. I did on jackstands and it took the better part of two days, now that I've done it, I could do it in about 10 hours, but you need help. As always, YMMV.

Jeff

Originally Posted by craig04c5
G-LOCK must be a service technician because it is not an easy job. You have some unique issues such as the torque tube making sure you don't lower to much as to have the engine hit the firewall which is a structural part of the car. Also the diff connects to the transmission. The entire rear cradle, exhaust to the cats and TT cover also needs to be removed. I would not advise a novice to try this job. While all these steps are well documented on this forum so study and see if its something you think you can handle.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by G-lock
Ed-
After driving it for about 3 weeks now, the only time I notice it is when I pull in and out of the garage. The car barely creeps in gear now. I really like the 2800, but I truly have nothing to compare it to. I picked the 2800 as I got a killer deal on a used one. As always YMMV. Jeff
Wow ! I have a SS3600 TC and my car creeps in gear like it was stock. I have a fairly steep driveway and I have to break on it. The only loosness I feel is in reverse when pulling out of the garage and/or parking space, and this is very little.Off the line you do not feel it at all.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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"loosness" is a subjective thing. The first week you have a high stallTC it feels "loose" compared to the stock. A week later it feels more "normal" .Two weeks later it feels fine. A month later you're thinking "why didn't I go with a higher stall?".
I've got a SS3600 and it's fine for me but I've got over 400rwhp (see sig) so maybe with more or less hp I'd like something else better.
I would go with at least a 2800 if I were you.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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my web page has links to the Mike Norris article, and others gear swap pages:

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 99 vett babycar
"loosness" is a subjective thing. The first week you have a high stallTC it feels "loose" compared to the stock. A week later it feels more "normal" .Two weeks later it feels fine. A month later you're thinking "why didn't I go with a higher stall?".
I've got a SS3600 and it's fine for me but I've got over 400rwhp (see sig) so maybe with more or less hp I'd like something else better.
I would go with at least a 2800 if I were you.


I agree. However "creep" is not subjective and I have had several C5 drivers remark about how my car "creeps" like a stock TC.Also the stall RPM should be chosen to be compatable with your torque curve which in turn depends on your cam.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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A couple of items. I went some what radical because I will be doing a heads and cam swap in the next year. If you want to run conservative and good setup would be the factory 6 speed gears 3.45's and a 2800 stall.
I did the swap in a weekend like mentioned. Was able to work a few hours ata time. Have a 2 year old son helping me.
I feel I could do the swap in about 10 hours next time.
Here are some pics.
http://bowtye8.tzo.com/hovmovies/pic...nnyswap_tn.htm
Its a link...
I was by myself ...so you will see in the one pic I balanced the tranny/diff on a 6*6 on the jack. Yes It did balance pretty easy
I needed the 6*6 to give me the height.
I would sugest not removing the entire TQ tube.

The car does feel a ton softner putting into gear. You feel some convertor but at 70mph while locked its hardly noticable.

My input
Dennis
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SRQC5
...
6. Are there any reasons that I should NOT do this mod
...
As others have mentioned, highway driving will yield poor milage. But just to elaborate, I have done a lot of highway driving in my A4 with a 3.73 over the last month and here is what I have found:

Driving at 55mph, the difference is not very noticable, but that changes RAPIDLY as speed increases. At 55 I can get about 29mpg, but at 65mph that drops to 26 and at 75 its down to about 23mpg (or less with the lights up and/or the Air Conditioning on). Most of my driving has been on almost flat roads and with the cruise-control set for constant speeds.
I seem to remember that people with stock gears get much better than 23 mpg while driving on flat roads at a constant 75mph.

If your highways are 55mph zones then you might not notice much at all. If there are long stretches where you are over 65mph, then you will have to feed the tank a bit more.
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