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when i put my headers on .. i'm doing it at home but i dont have specs to give to the guy to get him to fab me up an x pipe so i'm going to have to drive it down there .. open header
now aside from the noise and so forth .. will i have any problems?
will it hurt the engine to loose that much backpressure?
I plan to plug in the 02 sims for the short trip down.
You should be ok, just expect to be deaf when you get there. As far as your X-pipe, are you getting an offroad X? Dr. Gas makes them for most C5 headers. Just tell them what kind of header system you're installing, and they'll make a direct fit X for you.
You should be ok, just expect to be deaf when you get there. As far as your X-pipe, are you getting an offroad X? Dr. Gas makes them for most C5 headers. Just tell them what kind of header system you're installing, and they'll make a direct fit X for you.
it's not the x-pipe that's the problem .. it's the back of the X to the rear piping that's the problem.
actually i think a Dr. gas x came with it (used TPIS headers) .. it's a full 3" with reducers on one end down to 2.5" which will allow me to put my 2.25" piping in just fine.
but i need my headers in place so the people can measure the distances and fab it up to the X-pipe.
You won't hurt the motor, maybe your ears though! You won't believe how loud these thing are with open headers! Awesome sound though! The only thing I would worry about would be the cops and the hot exhaust gases blowing out under the car. If it is a short trip and you keep the revs down you should be fine. Other wise I would try to put some kind of turndown on the end of the pipes just to be sure you don't' cook something under there.
i was just informed from a friend who was told by a tuner if he ran his 97SS open header his LT1(4?) heads would warp from the heat
.. something about if he were to run it hard and then let off the gas it would warp the head from the exhaust heat coming back up the header and into the head due to lack of backpressure ..
personally it sounds like b/s but i need some forumal ( ) advice
Even though I specialize in HP automatics, I have been building engines since the mid 1960's thru the mid 1990's and this crap of burning exhaust valves "might have" been true eons ago when the exhaust valves were made of a poor grade of steel. Like I said "might of", I have never been able to verify a case of this happening. Having worked with others on "dyno" runs, is that whoever said you need "back pressure" is that statement is the furthest thing from the truth. You want a "high" vacuum condition at the back of the exhaust valve at all times. That is why Tri-Y's (4-2-1) work very well on engines that are shifting at 5,800 - 6,000 prm at WOT (great for automatics). They produce (when designed correctly) a "high" vacuum condition at the back of the intake valve, at the desired rpm range. This accounts for better torque, better gas mileage, better throttle response, & increased horsepower. Would you have it any other way?