Lift motor to install headers?
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
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From: Fairfax SD
Lift motor to install headers?
Will be installling kooks long tube headers and x pipe on my 2001 Z06.
Installation instructions note that the engine needs to be lifted to install, is there any way to install w/o taking motor mounts loose. Also notes to install from the top, can headers be installed from the bottom?
Just wanted some extra advice before I get started.
Installation instructions note that the engine needs to be lifted to install, is there any way to install w/o taking motor mounts loose. Also notes to install from the top, can headers be installed from the bottom?
Just wanted some extra advice before I get started.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 74
From: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
You will definatly want to lift the motor, one side at a time, and go in from the top. The instructions are there to keep you from going nuts and then throwing something across the room and saying @#&% it these things don't fit. That is the most efficient way to install them bad boys.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,795
Likes: 11
From: Long Island NY
yes you will need to lift each side of the engine to do the install.. undo the motor mount bolt on the bottom of the car, not the top one. use a small block of wood on the floor jack. make sure you check the clearence as you as lifting the engine on the top part of the intake manifold. valve cover should come off for a little more room.. the headers install from the top.
driver's side need to remove oil filter, coolant sensor on the head, and steering shaft.
pass side, remove the starter. also, for a little more room, remove the clutch inspection shield
lastly, my advice is to fit the header/gasket on the head with the bolts to make sure they line up before lowering the enigine back down. it'll save you a lot of time later. ask me how i know
hope this helps.. PM me if you need more info
driver's side need to remove oil filter, coolant sensor on the head, and steering shaft.
pass side, remove the starter. also, for a little more room, remove the clutch inspection shield
lastly, my advice is to fit the header/gasket on the head with the bolts to make sure they line up before lowering the enigine back down. it'll save you a lot of time later. ask me how i know
hope this helps.. PM me if you need more info
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,772
Likes: 1
From: Tampa FL
dunno if the kooks are specific and have to be done a certain way
but in the instructions i've read I've never heard of such a thing.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29
but in the instructions i've read I've never heard of such a thing.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Horse Shoe Valey ONTARIO
To make it even easier to install the gaskets, take a pair of tin snips and slot the front and rear bolt holes in the gaskets making an upside down "U" shape. then you can install the headers with a front and rear bolt in a couple of threads then slip the gaskets on after. saves wrestling to line up the bolt holes. You have to lift the engine ...Only ONE side at a time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa OK
I just installed a set of Kook's in my garage a short while ago. The instructions they send are right on and it is really not that hard.
I loosened the top motor mount nuts and lifted the motor up until the intake just touched under the cowl. Only take one side off at a time. Loosen the opposite side but don't remove the nut.
You will have to remove the coil packs but I left the valve covers on and didn't have any trouble. You will have to take the alternator out and remove the streering shaft but that is no big deal either. Getting to the manifold bolts in the back on the driver's side is a little bit of a pain. The headers drop in from the top. I had a buddy down below guiding the collectors past and obstructions. Once their in the fit is superb - they clear everything - wires, filter, starter, everything is well away from the pipes.
Would do it again in a second.
Also, be real careful when you reinstall the bolts in the heads. The aluminum is real soft and it would be easily to cross thread a bolt. Does that sound like I have had experience.
Good Luck and Go For It!
I loosened the top motor mount nuts and lifted the motor up until the intake just touched under the cowl. Only take one side off at a time. Loosen the opposite side but don't remove the nut.
You will have to remove the coil packs but I left the valve covers on and didn't have any trouble. You will have to take the alternator out and remove the streering shaft but that is no big deal either. Getting to the manifold bolts in the back on the driver's side is a little bit of a pain. The headers drop in from the top. I had a buddy down below guiding the collectors past and obstructions. Once their in the fit is superb - they clear everything - wires, filter, starter, everything is well away from the pipes.
Would do it again in a second.
Also, be real careful when you reinstall the bolts in the heads. The aluminum is real soft and it would be easily to cross thread a bolt. Does that sound like I have had experience.
Good Luck and Go For It!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by EStreeter
I just installed a set of Kook's in my garage a short while ago. The instructions they send are right on and it is really not that hard.
I loosened the top motor mount nuts and lifted the motor up until the intake just touched under the cowl. Only take one side off at a time. Loosen the opposite side but don't remove the nut.
You will have to remove the coil packs but I left the valve covers on and didn't have any trouble. You will have to take the alternator out and remove the streering shaft but that is no big deal either. Getting to the manifold bolts in the back on the driver's side is a little bit of a pain. The headers drop in from the top. I had a buddy down below guiding the collectors past and obstructions. Once their in the fit is superb - they clear everything - wires, filter, starter, everything is well away from the pipes.
Would do it again in a second.
Also, be real careful when you reinstall the bolts in the heads. The aluminum is real soft and it would be easily to cross thread a bolt. Does that sound like I have had experience.
Good Luck and Go For It!
I loosened the top motor mount nuts and lifted the motor up until the intake just touched under the cowl. Only take one side off at a time. Loosen the opposite side but don't remove the nut.
You will have to remove the coil packs but I left the valve covers on and didn't have any trouble. You will have to take the alternator out and remove the streering shaft but that is no big deal either. Getting to the manifold bolts in the back on the driver's side is a little bit of a pain. The headers drop in from the top. I had a buddy down below guiding the collectors past and obstructions. Once their in the fit is superb - they clear everything - wires, filter, starter, everything is well away from the pipes.
Would do it again in a second.
Also, be real careful when you reinstall the bolts in the heads. The aluminum is real soft and it would be easily to cross thread a bolt. Does that sound like I have had experience.
Good Luck and Go For It!
Good tips. The same goes for mine too. They went in from the top after the engine was raised one side at a time. One other caution I would recommend you really pay attention to and that is: DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WITH THE COUPLING BOLT/CLAMP DISCONNECTED! a very slight amount of movement is OK but you are asking for expensive problems if you allow the wheel to rotate too far. If you still have a functioning steering column lock, no worries. Leave it locked until you finish the driver's side and the clamp is re-connected. If you have a CLB installed, and the steering wheel will not lock, I would recommend tying off the wheel with rope if necessary. The steering wheel position sensor can be affected if the wheel is allowed to be turned while disconnected. HTH
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax SD
Thanks everyone for your information. I should'nt have second quessed the instructions, but still some could pointiers on what and what not to do on the installation
Can,t wait to hear the roar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can,t wait to hear the roar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 391
Likes: 7
From: Garland Texas
Just finished mine and putting them in form the top was the only way i could get them in. I tryed the bottom and could not get them in. I had to move the motor over and they went right in. with EStreeter right on.
with EStreeter right on.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
1. yes, lift motor
2. yes, top
valve cover off on the pass. side helps
also the clutch insp cover removed for the pass side if a must do
driver's side disconnect the ground near the rear of the block, one wire goes to the harness the other is a braided ground strap
and follow the instructions for the starter and steering shaft removal
the deal w/ not turning the steering is the clock spring, which fires the air bag
2. yes, top
valve cover off on the pass. side helps
also the clutch insp cover removed for the pass side if a must do
driver's side disconnect the ground near the rear of the block, one wire goes to the harness the other is a braided ground strap
and follow the instructions for the starter and steering shaft removal
the deal w/ not turning the steering is the clock spring, which fires the air bag