82shark

I asked this question a while back, and tried a few steps to fix. When I put the key in, all is fine, electricals light up, here the fuel pump sending, but when I attempt to turn it over, "nothing". Three possibilities fromw what folks have told me on here

1. Battery, replaced with Optima Red top. Not a problem

2. Clutch not depressed far enough to trigger, don't think this is a problem, I've pushed it through the floor.

3. Ignition/Key VATS system, tried spare key, same result

The problem is sporadic, happens usually at the morning start up, but once I've cursed and tried a few things, it will eventually start. But it scares me that I might get stranded somewhere. Once warmed up and driven a while, doesn't do it no more for that day. If it is the VATS system, could using a product like Eckler's sells a "security system Override" make it driveable? Its not fixing the problem but disabling the security system at the wiring harness. Would this make the car "safe to drive" and worry free?
ED

konish

ignition switch itself?

lar66BB

Sent PM, Check the starter a commen problem on C5's

82shark

Thanks Lar66BB,
But how do I know if its the starter or not? It eventually starts, just got back from driving it and it works fine. Fires up true each time. It seems that if its the starter, it would give me trouble all the time?
Ed

c5_pewter_vette

I had a section of my ignition switch go bad. At one point my symptoms were the same as yours. When you finally get it to start, check your voltage on the DIC as the engine idles. It should be steady. If you see the voltage momentarily jump down every once in a while, let me know and I can help you troubleshoot.

82shark

Voltage is steady once the car is up and running. Never drops below 14 or 13.8 depending on if the lights are on.
Ed

c5_pewter_vette

When you turn the key, do you get a "tick-tick-tick" sound and the lights of the instrument panel get very dim? Does the computer start cranking out warning messages?

82shark

When I turn it over, no clicking, just dead, no sound. Instruments and guages work fine, no warning light, could be the starter as someone else suggested.
ED

82shark

I ran the codes and i got the following
IPC
U1016H Loss of Comm with PCM
U1064H """""""" BCM
U1040H """"""' TCS
U1176H """""""" RFA
U1088H ?

RADIO
U1064H
U1016H
U1096H

Any chance if any of these has something to do with the intermittent not starting problem?
Ed

Rob 99

i don't think those codes have anything to do with your prob it would be a 'P' code (powertrain).
I would take a guess and have the clutch contact switch checked.

s.y.n.c.

Hey Shark,
I, too, am having similar symptoms. I have tried cycling the lock/unlock, (thinking this may somehow "shock the monkey" on the VATS)...the only cure is to wait a few minutes and try again. I did one time get it to turn over and start, but then the engine would die...VATS-induced fuel starvation is my guess. I have a 98, so it is no spring chicken, I am wondering if the contact plate (for the key's resistor) is jarred. It is easily seen by peering into the key slot...although I do not know how to check it. Like you, I am afraid that I will get stranded somewhere.
Brian

2KVetteMan

This sounds something my dads toyota had problems back in the day. It ended up being the bushings in the alternator. They were worn down, we replaced them and that took care of the problem.

We would turn the key and the car would not turn over, it was a guessing game when it would come awake. If it was a hot day no problem. But cold in the morning, no way it would take forever.

You might want to ask about that. Good luck!!

s.y.n.c.

Thanks 2kVetteMan,
So to trouble shoot, I will check:
Battery and Connections
Starter
Bushings in Alternator
Brian

dpd

the easy way to narrow down your problem would be to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the problem is happening.if you have voltage on the wire that engages the starter,the problem is in the starter,if there is no voltage,the problem is north of the starter[ignition switch,clutch switch,theft relay,bcm,fuses].
the way it works is:
when you slide the key into the ignition,vats reads the pellet,tells the bcm everything is ok,the bcm grounds 1 leg of the theft relay.
you turn the key to "start",power flows from the ignition switch to the 10amp fuse in the fuseblock,through the fuse to the clutch switch.when you step on the clutch switch,power goes in and out of the switch[NOTE:JUST BECAUSE YOU STEP ON THE CLUTCH DOSEN'T MEAN ANYTHING IS GOING THROUGH IT.]and to the theft relay.
the theft relay has 4 wires to it.1 terminal gets constant power from a 60amp fuse in the fuse block.1 terminal is a ground from the bcm,1 terminal is power from the clutch switch and the last terminal is the wire that goes to the starter contact terminal.
the wire that goes to the starter is usually purple[i can't remember]and goes from the starter straight to the theft relay.
hope this helps---------------good luck

Y2Kvert4me

Mine shared the identical symptoms earlier this year, right down to the morning no-start part of it.

It was frustrating, as every time I'd attempt to troubleshoot the thing with my meter, then the damn thing would start. After a week of that, it finally went dead for good, which gave me the chance to test everything, and it turned out to be the starter itself.

If you have a meter handy, I can tell you what and where to test and provide a schematic of the starting circuit, it's really not that complicated, and should be fairly easy to track down...but the kicker is, the car must be "not starting" to test things and find the cause.