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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 01:31 AM
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Default Cartek Line Lock

Alright, so I get this thing in the mail, and no instructions... Thanks to the cajun dude that doesn't matter.. So, Im looking at his instructions, and Im thinking, okay, one line from the solenoid needs to get grounded, the other needs power from the switch... Looking further, and I see nothing about which wire needs to be grounded, and there is zero way to distinguish which wire is which coming out of the noid (both have lettering on them, both have a copper wire)..

Does it not matter which wire from the solenoid gets grounded? Im gonna go out on a limb and say no but wanted to confirm with you guys first..

Thanks..
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 01:44 AM
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doesn't matter
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 01:59 AM
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Awesome.. Then Im done.. Just need to go drive this thing.. Thank you...
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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i have one myself, installed it myself, doesnt matter which wire is power/ground, good luck, makes life alot easier at the drag strip.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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Thanks guys.. Its all installed, and it ROCKS.. I never had any problems doing a burnout at the track and therefore never thought I would buy a Linelock but after reading about how this took strain off of my diff and rear brakes I bought one.. Took the car for a spin last night after getting the okay from you guys, and I LOVE IT... Just press the button, pump the brakes, and dump the clutch.. Im in love.. I ended up ditching the Cartek switch, and replaced it with a lighted radio shack switch which after being modified fit perfectly in the spot that the cig lighter once was... Ill post pictures in the future.. thanks for the help..
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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John,

Care to install one for me?

BTW, I take it you ironed out all of your CEL issues. PM me with the end result of that.

Don
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 24hr Z06
.. Just press the button, pump the brakes, and dump the clutch..

dont you pump the brakes, press the button and then dump the clutch? If I did it your way I would go flying forward....
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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Nope, CEL still present, but the car runs in open loop (without 02s plugged in) so Ive been driving it like that.. At this point, I really don't care.. If the car is running lean and the motor goes, problem discovered, and issue resolved with a 402.. I know, Ive gone mad, but what can you do, it was driving me crazy but serenity now.... BTW.. If the car isn't running with the 02s plugged in come Nov. 21.. Shes getting raced as is...

With that in mind... Ill be more then happy to install your linelock for you.. Just tell me when and where.. All I require is some beef on a stick, no beer just food, and a good clean working environment..


BTW to all the drag racers, I HIGHLY recommend this.. I never had a problem doing a burnout but this makes life 1 MILLLLION times easier AND as a bonus its easier on your rear diff, and rear brakes.. So worth the $250..

Bob.. I dunno what to tell you.. Next time I do a burnout ill give your method a try and see what happens.. maybe ECS jerry rigged yours and its backwards.. KIDDING KIDDING... Whos line lock do you have? Id think youd want to press the button in order to activate the lockup, Id hate to get a lockup while driving around on the street..




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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 24hr Z06
Next time I do a burnout ill give your method a try and see what happens.. maybe ECS jerry rigged yours and its backwards.. KIDDING KIDDING... Whos line lock do you have? Id think youd want to press the button in order to activate the lockup, Id hate to get a lockup while driving around on the street..

I agree that you have to push the button for it to work. My thought was that you pump the brakes and get them firm then you hold the button to lock the front brakes at that point.

If you hold the button first then you would activate the brakes at the current setting which would be with no pressure.

One test is to not have your foot on the brake and just hit the line lock then pump the brake. See if it holds from there. I have had my front tires move when I have not had the brakes firm enough....


Of course Chris told me what to do so who knows
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 01:35 AM
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Since Chris did your install its pretty safe to assume its NOT a cartek line lock .. Mine has an on/off switch, so it might be different then yours, no need holding a button..
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 02:28 AM
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LOCK brakes first then HOLD front brakes with your line lock.

Nice install 24hr Z06
John
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
I agree that you have to push the button for it to work. My thought was that you pump the brakes and get them firm then you hold the button to lock the front brakes at that point.

If you hold the button first then you would activate the brakes at the current setting which would be with no pressure.

One test is to not have your foot on the brake and just hit the line lock then pump the brake. See if it holds from there. I have had my front tires move when I have not had the brakes firm enough....


Of course Chris told me what to do so who knows

Every line-lock I have ever used works like a check valve when activated. When activated you can always add more brake pressure, it just don't come back through the line-lock until you deactivate the lock. Even the really old mechanical ones on the really old dump trucks worked like this, except they normally locked the back brakes or all the brakes.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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how much did u pay for the line lock if u dont mind me asking??
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 11:26 AM
  #14  
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i got my cartek 2 weeks ago on sale for $199
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedyZ
Every line-lock I have ever used works like a check valve when activated. When activated you can always add more brake pressure, it just don't come back through the line-lock until you deactivate the lock. Even the really old mechanical ones on the really old dump trucks worked like this, except they normally locked the back brakes or all the brakes.


You took the words right out of my mouth
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 05:54 PM
  #16  
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24HR where in upstate? Albany here I had Cartek install mine and its money well spent.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 07:25 PM
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You can buy a Hurst Roll Control (line lock) for ...$100.00...$140.00 in canada and it comes with all the instructions as well as micro switch and light. I install the micro switch under the boot so no one can see it and the light in the ash tray compartment using the existing screw on the left. take the brake line closest to the power booster and cut it @ 4" down from the bend. slide a 1/4 flare end fittig on and double flare the end. with the proper reducer from 1/4-1/8 adapter screw into the M port hole in the solinoid, bend the tubeand connect it now so as the solinoid is hanging under the master cylinder. Now do the same to the other end of the tube that you cut and install it into one of the other ports using the same adaptive fittings and reducers. now for the wireing you can mount the switch on the shifter shaft under the boot and using the orange wire for the 12 volt accessory plug in your arm rest, splice into it with those convenient solderless inline connectors. this is from one side of the switch, the other side wire goes through the fire wall, I ran mine through the rubber boot where your hood release cable runs, connect it to the red wire on the solinoid. the ground wire can be connected to a conveinent ground stud located right under the master cylinder on the frame. for the light, mount it in your ash tray compartment using the screw holding the dash on, this also grounds the light and for the power, just use the same type of solderless in line connector to the power line leading from the switch to the solinoid. NOW YOU MUST BLEED YOUR BRAKES sometimes you can get away with just cracking the line nut at the top of the abs junction and have someone pump the brakes untill all air is removed. If you have never bled brakes on an abs system before then let a professional do it.
Once done you can just push the button and hit the brakes at any time and they will stay locked untill you release the button... you can also play around with driving down the road at 20-30mph and hold the button the slightly tap the brakes while simotaneously mashing the throttle and do a major top fuel burn out while driving down the road!! quite impressive to those who don't know you have line lock!! I hope some of this helps those who have never installed one before.
max
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedyZ
Every line-lock I have ever used works like a check valve when activated. When activated you can always add more brake pressure, it just don't come back through the line-lock until you deactivate the lock. Even the really old mechanical ones on the really old dump trucks worked like this, except they normally locked the back brakes or all the brakes.

well that makes sense why either method would work...
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by klymaxr
You can buy a Hurst Roll Control (line lock) for ...$100.00...$140.00 in canada and it comes with all the instructions as well as micro switch and light. I install the micro switch under the boot so no one can see it and the light in the ash tray compartment using the existing screw on the left. take the brake line closest to the power booster and cut it @ 4" down from the bend. slide a 1/4 flare end fittig on and double flare the end. with the proper reducer from 1/4-1/8 adapter screw into the M port hole in the solinoid, bend the tubeand connect it now so as the solinoid is hanging under the master cylinder. Now do the same to the other end of the tube that you cut and install it into one of the other ports using the same adaptive fittings and reducers. now for the wireing you can mount the switch on the shifter shaft under the boot and using the orange wire for the 12 volt accessory plug in your arm rest, splice into it with those convenient solderless inline connectors. this is from one side of the switch, the other side wire goes through the fire wall, I ran mine through the rubber boot where your hood release cable runs, connect it to the red wire on the solinoid. the ground wire can be connected to a conveinent ground stud located right under the master cylinder on the frame. for the light, mount it in your ash tray compartment using the screw holding the dash on, this also grounds the light and for the power, just use the same type of solderless in line connector to the power line leading from the switch to the solinoid. NOW YOU MUST BLEED YOUR BRAKES sometimes you can get away with just cracking the line nut at the top of the abs junction and have someone pump the brakes untill all air is removed. If you have never bled brakes on an abs system before then let a professional do it.
Once done you can just push the button and hit the brakes at any time and they will stay locked untill you release the button... you can also play around with driving down the road at 20-30mph and hold the button the slightly tap the brakes while simotaneously mashing the throttle and do a major top fuel burn out while driving down the road!! quite impressive to those who don't know you have line lock!! I hope some of this helps those who have never installed one before.
max


Click Here for photos of a similar install of a Hurst Line-Lock.

Last edited by SpeedyZ; Jun 13, 2019 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Updated URL for new server
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 01:39 AM
  #20  
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lol... Alright, upstate is kinda a joke (I tend to do that).. My friends down in NYC call my area, Westchester, upstate even though Im 25miles from Midtown manhattan.. Compared to Albany, Im NYC..
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